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Echo CS2511TES chattering/bouncing problem


Otta
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2 hours ago, kram said:

 

Dont think it will be any different to the standard TESC. Cuts better you say? Its semi chisel, 1/4" pitch so more cutters in the wood and less efficient than a 3/8" full chisel. More cutters to be sharpened too.

 

Carving bar is lighter. Narrow nose is useful for topping cuts and delicate pruning.

Tho the standard bar on my mates MS151T is near enough the same size/shape as the carving bar anyway. The standard TES bar has a bigger nose.

My carving bar is showing near zero wear after quite a lot of use, so I cant see a situation where the standard bar would be an advantage.

 

 

No fighting talk.

 

Do several years full time climbing with it then get back to me.

 

 

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On 13/11/2024 at 21:00, kram said:

For what advantage? Near enough the same as the original TESC kit.

 

@Joe Newtonr are not clutches a left hand thread so if anything they will tighten when reved or loaded?! It'll come off you run without a bar and kill the engine after revving to stop it or shut the throttle too quick from full speed - atleast if it was only hand tight, once its been cutting it should be tight as it'll get.

You've got the gist of it, that's exactly what happened.

3 hours ago, kram said:

 

Dont think it will be any different to the standard TESC. Cuts better you say? Its semi chisel, 1/4" pitch so more cutters in the wood and less efficient than a 3/8" full chisel. More cutters to be sharpened too.

 

Carving bar is lighter. Narrow nose is useful for topping cuts and delicate pruning.

Tho the standard bar on my mates MS151T is near enough the same size/shape as the carving bar anyway. The standard TES bar has a bigger nose.

My carving bar is showing near zero wear after quite a lot of use, so I cant see a situation where the standard bar would be an advantage.

 

Why don't you think it will be any better? Anyone who's ever used the stock setup vs the stihl one agrees it cuts quicker and smoother by a good margin.

 

Try it. It's not a massive expense. 

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44 minutes ago, Mark Bolam said:

 

No fighting talk.

 

Do several years full time climbing with it then get back to me.

 

 

You know we're in agreement Bolam, but when you were "full time climbing" you were using an 020av.

 

Don't bullshit us. 

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21 hours ago, Joe Newton said:

 

Try it. It's not a massive expense. 

Fair enough I will get one. I see the PM3 1/4" - is that the correct one? is listed as micro chisel which may be near enough full chisel to get the 10% they claim. Even so it is more cutting surface area in the wood at any time which eats power.

 

Where is the best place to buy one? And chains in general for that matter. I'm going to get a 3/8LP FC anyway to try.

 

However I dont see that I need a new bar. Stihl dont do it in 60DL so I'll get a 12" 64DL? and shorten it.

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But this 

SKYLANDEQUIPMENT.COM

The combination of this particularly narrow guide bar with the 1/4" Picco chain (designed especially for cordless chainsaws and the MS 150 / MS151 ), offers considerable savings in...

 

And this

SKYLANDEQUIPMENT.COM

Only available from Stihl in 1/4" .043 (1.1mm) gauge sized chain, Designed for the MS150, MS151 & MS161T this chain is fast and cutting and leaves a very smooth clean cut. Guide...

 

 

Not necessarily from us but the above combo work well with the 2511

 

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Out of the 5-6 2511’s I’ve owned I’ve taken off the bar and replaced with a 10” stihl straight out the box , there is no point in even messing around with a carving bar for tree work. 
The other thing is drill out two holes so you can pick up stihl 10” chains straight off the shelf off any dealer. 
certainly never had the problems described by th OP sounds like the wrong pitch chain.

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