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Echo CS2511TES chattering/bouncing problem


Otta
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9 minutes ago, Timbermcpherson said:

. Aside from clutch springs, bars, chains, caps, exhaust covers, filters, an ignition switch and busted handle and brake they have needed nothing but more abuse over the years. 

Thats quite a lot !

How do you know when the clutch springs are done? One of the possible situations with a chainsaw that scares me greatly is a clutch explosion!

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7 hours ago, kram said:

Thats quite a lot !

How do you know when the clutch springs are done? One of the possible situations with a chainsaw that scares me greatly is a clutch explosion!

The chain turns even when it’s just ticking over.

I have never had a clutch explode or heard of anyone injured by one.

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1 hour ago, Mick Dempsey said:

The chain turns even when it’s just ticking over.

I have never had a clutch explode or heard of anyone injured by one.

Wouldn't a failed clutch just engage constantly, like when you've weak springs ?.

 

As there's no bearing to explode.

Edited by GarethM
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I've seen a couple of really knackered clutches that have split but none have exploded. Usually the clutch springs weaken or snap which causes the chain to turn at idle with the chain brake off, the engine dies at idle with the chain break on or they get hard to start. If you do have a broken clutch spring replace all of them at the same time, don't skimp on replacing just the one.

The stihl 150/151 200/201 are prone to wear on the clutch where the springs attach to it. If you can see a bit of a  grove in the locating hole then it may be time to replace the clutch. You will find out that if you replace the springs and they dont last very long then the clutch is probably on the way out.

One last thing, whether its stihl or husky make sure you get the correct springs as they both have a habit of updating the clutch mechanism which usually requires different springs, they can look the same but they may have 1 more or 1 less coil on the spring.

 

 

 

 

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Perhaps I am mistaken, but have seen pictures of damage caused by a failed clutch. I assume it can occur if it becomes unbalanced, say if a spring broke or fell out.

Over speeding too, I was warned never to run/test a saw without a bar and chain.

 

Anyway back to chains. A 3/8LP sprocket has arrived and I plan to try the 2511 with a Stihl full chisel chain, preferably if I can I will keep using the narrow nose 10" carving bars.

 

The nose radius might be too small for the cutter length in which case the rear of cutter will rub a bit like a high raker, so it wont do bore cuts. It should still cut normally away from the nose and after a few sharpenings, would be ok. I have a spare .050" bar so nothing lost by trying.

 

I was looking at the Speedcut Nano system but they appear to be semi chisel, and a small saw like this could use the extra cutting efficiency.

 

Would anyone know what length I need? Otherwise I can measure up a spare chain - but that means swapping the sprocket, which is a pain while its in daily use.. I could order a long one and shorten as needed, but prefer not to.

 

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As far as I'm aware(I might be wrong) the carving bars are 1/4 pitch 1.1 currently, some came with 1/4 1.3 a few year back. These are 60 drive links if memory serves. The 3/8 1.3 10i inch is 40 links. Stihl now do a 3/8 1.1 in full chisel. Not sure how well the bar would fit(might need to drill a new oil hole, if they even do a 10" for that chain) As for the nano or the Husqvarna equivalent chain it cuts brilliantly from my limited use. I believe the oregon conversion kit is less than 40 quid plus vat, which sounds an absolute bargain tbh

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