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If this is discussed elsewhere apologies....

Can I put a 0.58 bar on instead of a 0.50?

I think its on a Husky 350 (asking for a friend). 

I guess the side casing may not fit correctly and presumably a bit more friction pulling a heavier chain etc, but in theory is this possible?

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Might cut  abit slower versus a 0.50 as  wider kerf / teeth on the new 0.58 matching chain means saw has to work harder...

 

 

 

So on a  350 (50cc 2.3kw) sticking with 0.50 might  be   better i reckon?

 

 

 

Casing should be ok.

 

& the  sprocket will not need  chainging if chain is the same pitch......

 

 

 

 

 

 

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13 minutes ago, Stere said:

 

Might cut  abit slower versus a 0.50 as  wider kerf / teeth on the new 0.58 matching chain means saw has to work harder...

 

 

 

So on a  350 (50cc 2.3kw) sticking with 0.50 might  be   better i reckon?

 

 

 

Casing should be ok.

 

& the  sprocket will not need  chainging if chain is the same pitch......

 

 

 

 

 

 

But ....arn't the actual cutters the same width and its just the drivers that are narrower ? Thought I read that on here somewhere .

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12 minutes ago, Stubby said:

But ....arn't the actual cutters the same width and its just the drivers that are narrower ? Thought I read that on here somewhere .

The cutters are the same width on a .325" chain irrelevant whether the drivers are 0.50 0.58 or 0.63. Certainly are on oregon...cant see others being different.

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Yeah i remember now it it was Rob @ chainsaw bars.

 

 

But it still  confused me as the new 0.50 chain &  light bars etc  were being marketed as cutting 20% faster.

 

Quote

The high performance .325” saw chain provides up to 20% more cutting performance compared to its predecessor (.325” RS) due to the narrower kerf.

 

Above is direct  from the stihl website:

 

 

WWW.STIHL.CO.UK

The STIHL MS 261 C-M petrol chainsaw is the perfect tool for small to medium tree maintenance work. This new version...

 

 

 

Not sure whats true?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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57 minutes ago, pleasant said:

The cutters are the same width on a .325" chain irrelevant whether the drivers are 0.50 0.58 or 0.63. Certainly are on oregon...cant see others being different.

Thought so . So the only possible reduction in drag is the narrow drivers in the narrow bar groove . Marginal I would have thought plus the whole set up is weaker . 

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1 hour ago, Stubby said:

But ....arn't the actual cutters the same width and its just the drivers that are narrower ? Thought I read that on here somewhere .

Yes they are the same width with the difference being in the drive link widths as you said. But the overall cut width are different as this made up of the right and left cutters swept area which overlap, the degree of overlap depends on the drive link width.

Therefore a .50 chain overall width is less than a .58 which is lee than a .63, which is why in theory a .50 chain cuts quicker than a .63 one and why a part worn chain cuts quicker than a new one as the overall cut width reduces as you sharpen the chain ( as cutters are not parallel to the guide bar they narrow slightly away from the cutting edge and drop slightly which is why you lower the depth guages).

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2 hours ago, Stubby said:

Thought so . So the only possible reduction in drag is the narrow drivers in the narrow bar groove . Marginal I would have thought plus the whole set up is weaker . 

There is the subtle difference in that the left and right cutters overlap 0.08" more but I have no idea what significance that may have.

 

The thinnerer bearing surface on the drive link rivets is likely more of a wear issue.

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