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Is your chain oil sticky??


john87
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17 minutes ago, john87 said:

No surprise there then.. Why on earth would anyone use cooking oil in their saw?? I have a bit to do with old motorbikes and there are always people on about what oil to use. I always tell them the same, "what ever the makers told you, your bike has lasted 70 years so far, so i think the makers might have specified the correct oil" I doubt the saw makers tell you to put cooking oil in it..

 

Each to their own though..

 

john..

Did you read my previous post? 
 

I am no longer prepared to inhale the aerosol of mineral oil or have it cover my skin. I am not a short term or hobby user & the cumulative effect is not going to be positive. I spent the first 18 years using mineral oils and I don’t miss the smell or coating on myself and my clothes.

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On 02/06/2022 at 13:28, john87 said:

Oh, it is ok, i can read, thanks..

 

I will just leave this here.. [Hint, what do you think the oil reservoir is made out of?]

 

1.jpg

What do you think the can the oil comes in is made of?

 

Manuals are for the guidance of wise men and the unswerving obedience of fools (but mainly for 101 different get-out clauses for the manufacturer)

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3 minutes ago, Pete Mctree said:

Did you read my previous post? 
 

I am no longer prepared to inhale the aerosol of mineral oil or have it cover my skin. I am not a short term or hobby user & the cumulative effect is not going to be positive. I spent the first 18 years using mineral oils and I don’t miss the smell or coating on myself and my clothes.

If it helps, I wanted to do right by the planet and switched to Norther Arb bio oil. Ended up burning it in the yard stove, it was just useless. Would have wrecked bars in short order had I continued. Now back on mineral until someone finds a bio that works! 😞

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12 minutes ago, Pete Mctree said:

Did you read my previous post? 
 

I am no longer prepared to inhale the aerosol of mineral oil or have it cover my skin. I am not a short term or hobby user & the cumulative effect is not going to be positive. I spent the first 18 years using mineral oils and I don’t miss the smell or coating on myself and my clothes.

That is fair enough.. The oil would not do you any favours.. Perhaps the oil pump is turned up too high though?? There is not a drop of oil flung over my or my saws at all, it must wipe off on the wood. If i just stand there revving the thing for a few minutes, when i put them away, you will end up with a pool of oil under them that has run off from around the sprocket. If i just stop cutting, brush the saw clean with a paintbrush and wipe the bar with a cloth, then start it for about 10 seconds to blow any more dust off [as i always do] then when i put them away, not a single spot of oil comes out/runs off..

 

john..

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14 minutes ago, doobin said:

What do you think the can the oil comes in is made of?

 

Manuals are for the guidance of wise men and the unswerving obedience of fools (but mainly for 101 different get-out clauses for the manufacturer)

Presumably a different sort of plastic that is not intended to last for many years without its chemical amd mechanical properties becoming changed??

 

john..

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John, you can seldom see the oil being flung off the chain. If you point your saw a clean piece of paper and rev it for a few seconds you will see. If there is no oil on it then your saw is not oiling sufficiently - you can sometimes see the cloud it flings off when the sun hits it. If I put 3l of oil through a saw in a day (I often do), the saw body would be dripping with it otherwise 

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9 minutes ago, Pete Mctree said:

John, you can seldom see the oil being flung off the chain. If you point your saw a clean piece of paper and rev it for a few seconds you will see. If there is no oil on it then your saw is not oiling sufficiently - you can sometimes see the cloud it flings off when the sun hits it. If I put 3l of oil through a saw in a day (I often do), the saw body would be dripping with it otherwise 

The chains always look dry to me, so as a check i lift the chain out of the bar a bit and wiggle it, and sure enough, you can see the oil squeezing out a bit between the drive link and the bar groove as you wiggle it, so all ok there!!

 

I was cutting a slice off a very large log in half endways if you follow me the other day. I cut part way through, and then rolled it over, stuck the bar in and finished the cut upwards. I was quite amazed to see the oil spray from the chain hitting the wood. You could clearly see it hitting the end face of the wood.

 

Never thought it would just fling off as an aerosol though. Three litres a day flying about would not do you any favours as you say though.

 

When you see it fling off in the sun does it mainly fly off the end or generally all over the place or what??

 

john..

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  • 3 months later...

I am also using stihl synth plus and I find it very light oil. It has zero tackiness to it. Is this good or bad? Perhaps for longer bars maybe? They claim superb protection against wear. I have come across another oil called "contact m" its made by a company called UNIL, I thing its Belgian has anyone any experience with it? 

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6 minutes ago, Johnkv said:

I am also using stihl synth plus and I find it very light oil. It has zero tackiness to it. Is this good or bad? Perhaps for longer bars maybe? They claim superb protection against wear. I have come across another oil called "contact m" its made by a company called UNIL, I thing its Belgian has anyone any experience with it? 

Hard to say... On the one hand tackiness would help it not to fling off, on the other hand, perhaps it could hinder it flowing into the internals of the chain. Remember, if an oil is too viscous to flow into a tight clearance, then the parts concerned will not be lubricated.

 

NEVER, automatically assume thick oil is better than thin.. It might be in some applications [high loads and low speeds] but next to useless in other applications [higb speeds tight clearances]

john..

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Stihl synth plus chain oil is rheopectic- the opposite of thixotropic.

 

What's the first thing you do before you open a bottle of sauce, such as ketchup? You shake it, so it pours easier (thixotropic) so it gets thinner the more it is agitated.

 

 Stihl synth plus oil is the opposite of this (rheopectic) when not being agitated by being flung around a rotating chain it stays very fluid, so it flows easier through the pump, oil holes and the bar itself (unlike traditional chain oils) but then thickens up like a traditional chain oil once on the chain and agitated.

 

I found this out quite a few years ago when customers complained the 5l cans they were buying sounded very 'watery' inside when picked up.

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