Chain sharpening clamp/vice

[peatff]

On 25/05/2022 at 12:57, gdh said:

For doing processor chains I just use an old bar screwed to the workbench. It saves undoing a vice to turn chains.

 

How is that an old bar ? It's still got all it's paint on it.

[gdh]

2 hours ago, peatff said:

 

How is that an old bar ? It's still got all it's paint on it.

Haha, it's from a firewood processor so they tend to wear in one spot not all over. Although I would guess that one had a damaged rail after only a couple of hundred tons, it doesn't look that heavily worn.

[neiln]

I tend to do it on the saw these days, with the scrench shoved in between bar and chain on the underside and pushed forward until it binds, thus the chain is nice and tight.  If I had an old bar I'd probably use that, along with a spring or bungee of some sort to keep the chain tight 

 

 

[neiln]

I just had a thought, plank of wood or better yet, a piece of old laminate faced worktop. Tracksaw/circular saw a kerf in it, or even several and cut the end angled so you've kerfs to suit several chain lengths.  Drive a nail/pin in to one end of each kerf to hook your chain on to, et voilà!  Could even scribe or Sharpie some guide lines across at 30⁰ and screw a baton to the underside so you can clamp up in a workmate 

[Rich Rule]

On 25/05/2022 at 17:13, Dave Taylor said:

Just interested to get some ideas. I mainly do milling and often have up to five chains on the go. much simpler and better use of time to put a sharp chain when needed while milling. Therefore it is useful to be able to sharpen a number of chains in a session in workshop without having to fit them on to a saw. Also like the idea of reducing movement of the chain for precise and accurate sharpening.

Hang a heavy weight from the belly of the chain.  It will hold the chain in position to be able to sharpen and easy enough to move it around.

[Dan Maynard]

On 28/05/2022 at 19:54, adw said:

There are levers the other side and springs, it was quick and easy to knock the levers off , the springs then push the jaws apart, move the chain round and re clamp.

Ah that makes sense. Reckon Rich's weight idea could be why they stopped selling them though....

[trigger_andy]

Just interested to get some ideas. I mainly do milling and often have up to five chains on the go. much simpler and better use of time to put a sharp chain when needed while milling. Therefore it is useful to be able to sharpen a number of chains in a session in workshop without having to fit them on to a saw. Also like the idea of reducing movement of the chain for precise and accurate sharpening.

If you’re milling and need 5 odd chains sharpened regularly and more importantly very accurately why not just buy a good bench grinder?

[Still Stihl]

https://www.chainsawspares.com.au/saw-chain-bar-vice-bench-mounted-for-chainsaw-file

[bmp01]

Clamping the chain like this (on the side faces of the drive link) that ought to stop the chain from rocking in the direction you file it (I mean across the guide bar).

It annoys me how much the chain wriggles about when filing, especially on the fiddly chains or worn bars. I like the idea for loose chains but not sure how many times I'd pull a chain off assembled saw to use the cIamp set up.

 

 

[lurch_917]

On 25/05/2022 at 12:57, gdh said:

For doing processor chains I just use an old bar screwed to the workbench. It saves undoing a vice to turn chains.

true but now you just turn the whole bench .. 😜