Felling A Leaner / Back Cut Query

[Witterings]

If you're felling a leaner and using a bore cut, do most people then cut the back strap by continuing the cut from inside the bore out to the rear or from the rear back towards the hinge ..... and if the later do you make the cut at the same level as the bore cut or about an inch below?

 

Just interested if there's a right / wrong way as I've been watching a number of videos and have seen people doing both.

[HuntingHicap]

From the back, towards the hinge, from slightly higher and at a 45 degree angle downwards. Sometimes called a dogtooth cut due to the small angled bit left. Continuing out to the back with the bore cut is ok sometimes, but runs a risk of the butt taking the saw with it as it goes if it snaps out suddenly.

[Khriss]

Also, some species need a bore cut / dogs tooth at times - had a few sweet Chestnut barber on me in Spring, fair size forest tree - not leaning but blew out just the same. K

[Witterings]

Cheers for those ... must admit did wonder if continuing out the back could maybe take the saw with it and was on of the reasons for asking.

Not seen many of any doing a dogtooth but I'll pay a bit more attention maybe I've just missed it.

[the village idiot]

Also worth considering a letterbox (small bore through the gob from the front). 

 

I have found that it greatly reduces the frequency of barber chairs on leaners.

[MattyF]

Mostly dogs tooth as you can do it standing and are in a better position to move in to your escape route and look up for debris falling.. saying that I bore most trees that are not heavy leaning and usually gun the cut but with out a dogs tooth and most of the time letter box.

[drinksloe]

As other's have said down at an angle is the way taught.

In reality it really wouldn't matter if u it a back cut at a different level either above or below, if the weight is there it's going to go anyway once timber is severed.

[Svts]

Used to do the downward angle cut to release. But now make the release cut an inch ish below the back in the same plane. The draw back with the angled cut is very occasionally the tree will breakaway early. Then the saw is prone to getting getting caught in the kerf. Then it's a case of letting it go with the tree or staying put and try to get it free. 

With the flat cut slightly lower than the back cut if it goes early the saw stays in the stump out of harms way, not snagged in the falling tree. 

And cutting on piece rate its just quicker cutting  a shorter distance across the grain. If that makes sense. Never make a flat cut above the back cut. You will lose your saw eventually!  

Just to add regards boring straight out the back in one go. If you're using a buttress to hold at the back I find they have a tendancy to rip the root right out of the ground before you get through it. Again taking your saw with it. 

Edited March 16, 2021 by Svts
Further thoughts

[Steve Bullman]

So long as the bore cut and hinge are correct I’ve never been convinced that the method of release makes much difference at all!

Much like cranework, all the fancy cuts in the world make no difference if the slings aren’t set perfect 

[Witterings]

3 hours ago, the village idiot said:

Also worth considering a letterbox (small bore through the gob from the front). 

 

I have found that it greatly reduces the frequency of barber chairs on leaners.

 

If you do the letterbox, do you then still put the back cut approx 1 1/2" above or would you now do it at the same level as the letterbox?

 

I guess the othe question that kind of goes hand in hand is open, humboldt or conventional .... again with a heavy leaner, from what I#ve been watching was thinking probably open?