Funny grooves

[Johnsond]

4 hours ago, topchippyles said:

Blade tension for me all day long as that controls the wheel alignment.

Blade tension is spot on around the 25ftlb mark with a final visual check of how blade is tracking on wheels, you soon know if tension is not right. Only thing that might help to get a better finish  is a different tooth set angle or blade type  to match whatever timber you are cutting.  I can post up dozens of links to rough cut timber showing the same saw marks, there are numerous videos on how to actually duplicate the look on timber if it’s the finish you want. 
Mind you it could always be the fact I’m not looking for a great finish or am easy pleased 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️

Edited February 1, 2021 by Johnsond

[gobbypunk]

So using ripper 37's so should not be a problem ,all Chris Pierce said to me was not the same tension as Woodland Mills bands and it would be trial and error not the after sales service I was looking for to be honest ,I built it by the book been over it twice with the spanners to make sure everything is nice and tight  if I push any slower I will be walking backwards ,as for tension it all looks fine on the visual band stays where its ment to be ,What the F##C am I missing its doing my head in I font mind the wavy lines in this last of the monkey puzzle but I have a big Walnut butt next in the line then 2 mullberry and I want the nice finish I first had ,someone come and help 

[Johnsond]

2 hours ago, gobbypunk said:

So using ripper 37's so should not be a problem ,all Chris Pierce said to me was not the same tension as Woodland Mills bands and it would be trial and error not the after sales service I was looking for to be honest ,I built it by the book been over it twice with the spanners to make sure everything is nice and tight  if I push any slower I will be walking backwards ,as for tension it all looks fine on the visual band stays where its ment to be ,What the F##C am I missing its doing my head in I font mind the wavy lines in this last of the monkey puzzle but I have a big Walnut butt next in the line then 2 mullberry and I want the nice finish I first had ,someone come and help 

Was the finish you first had obtained with  the factory supplied blade ??

[topchippyles]

I have never used the ripper 37 blades so cannot comment. Maybe others who use them on different saws can advise or you could ring stephen cull.Can you not run the timber over the surface planer ?

Edited February 1, 2021 by topchippyles

[gobbypunk]

So spoke to Chris from woodland today and he told me to check the rails and it turns out the nuts have come loose and the rails are not true any more  and proving to be a real F#####G pain to get right again ,I would pay someone to come and do it for me. Ha ha 

[topchippyles]

2 minutes ago, gobbypunk said:

So spoke to Chris from woodland today and he told me to check the rails and it turns out the nuts have come loose and the rails are not true any more  and proving to be a real F#####G pain to get right again ,I would pay someone to come and do it for me. Ha ha 

Human error then mark not the manufacturers 

[trigger_andy]

On 01/02/2021 at 10:10, gobbypunk said:

all Chris Pierce said to me was not the same tension as Woodland Mills bands and it would be trial and error not the after sales service I was looking for to be honest

On 30/01/2021 at 10:57, trigger_andy said:

Have you tried over-torquing? Its not gonna damage anything over a few passes and will eliminate torque being an issue. Keep in mind the Ripper Blades are not welded square and slightly shorter on one of the faces to keep them running true. I slightly over-torque my Rippers. The manufacturers torque is more of a guide than a maximum setting. 

 

Cough cough.  

[trigger_andy]

16 hours ago, gobbypunk said:

So spoke to Chris from woodland today and he told me to check the rails and it turns out the nuts have come loose and the rails are not true any more  and proving to be a real F#####G pain to get right again ,I would pay someone to come and do it for me. Ha ha 

On 30/01/2021 at 10:57, trigger_andy said:

Sounds like you've had issues setting this mill up from the outset. Id be starting there to be honest. Sounds very much like you need someone who is handy mechanically to come and give you some pointers. 

Cough cough again, I must have caught Covid .  

[gobbypunk]

Um no not Human error crap nuts why they are not nylock or they dont suggest thread lock I dont know so I now have 2 nuts on the top to lock it off with and I have also added 2 small turnbuckels where the tracks join as I had a very small gap ,had the same on my old one seen the turn buckels on Woodland Mills FB page some matey had done it on there  now all I need is to get the track level again ,would gladly pay someone to do it ,then hopefully mill up some nice Walnut and Mullberry .

[trigger_andy]

3 minutes ago, gobbypunk said:

Um no not Human error crap nuts why they are not nylock or they dont suggest thread lock I dont know

Its human error as you clearly seen they where not Nylock and should have tightened them enough or had the forethought to use a thread locker yourself. You're not building a lego-set here.