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Is milling hard on saws?


Paddy1000111
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Yup, dipped a toe in the water with an Alaskan Small Log Mill on a 361, got hooked, bought a full Alaskan Mill and ran it with a 460 and 25” bar, finally settled on a 660 with a 30” bar. I have no need to go bigger because I’ve got next to no mechanical handling aides. The 460 was a brilliant all rounder but I could have saved a fair amount of cash by going straight to the 660. I imagine the 880/881 is in a different league again.

I would also say that, IMHO, the Panther mills address every one of the foibles with the Alaskan. If I was starting again, it would be with a Panther.

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1 minute ago, Paddy1000111 said:

Well you know that I haven't, said that from the start 😂

Your arse hopping about with all these saws and the simple fact is the 880/881 are the best and really the only option apart from the biggest of the huskies to be able to mill the slabs your looking at.

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1 minute ago, AndrewS said:

Yup, dipped a toe in the water with an Alaskan Small Log Mill on a 361, got hooked, bought a full Alaskan Mill and ran it with a 460 and 25” bar, finally settled on a 660 with a 30” bar. I have no need to go bigger because I’ve got next to no mechanical handling aides. The 460 was a brilliant all rounder but I could have saved a fair amount of cash by going straight to the 660. I imagine the 880/881 is in a different league again.

I would also say that, IMHO, the Panther mills address every one of the foibles with the Alaskan. If I was starting again, it would be with a Panther.

What makes the Panther better? This is the sort of info that really helps. I can get a Alaskan with all the kit (wedges oiler etc) for about the same price of a panther of the same size. What makes it a better mill? All I could really see is the bolt to bar as opposed to clamp? 

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