AndrewS

Out of interest, do you see any Dolmar PS5105? I bought one of the last Makita ea5000’s and I love it but it’s the wrong colour…😂!

On a related note, interested to know how people rate the MS361 vs more modern alternatives. I recently bought a brand new one overseas because I’m a stickler for simple, proven technology - shrewd move or am I missing out..?!

Exactly! Likely accompanied by a few chickens.

Thank you. I love the idea of having sheep cut the grass, and produce food for the freezer in the process… To do that sustainably and responsibly, I first wanted to prove to myself that I could grow grass. If it survives the winter, I’ll be confident to bring livestock in next spring. It was formerly part of an 11 acre small holding and I’ve re-registered the garden as an agricultural holding so we’re pretty much good to go 👍🏻

I’m likely not far from you in Banchory and have done something similar earlier this year to transform around 0.75acres of over-compacted moss bearing ground into knee deep sward. Really chuffed with the outcome. Not plain sailing but I’ve learned a lot along the way. Highlights: Researched soil type via James Hutton Institute - great resource. Had soil analysed. Found pH of 5.2, organic matter around 8% and severely depleted in N, P & K. Alleviated compaction with a 24” subsoiler pulled perpendicular to the (gentle) fall line every 5-6’ Loosened the top soil with a stone burier. Applied ~400kg agricultural gypsum to chemically soften the clay pan Applied bio lime Applied 10T of spent peat-based compost from a local potato grower Reseeded with a carefully considered mix of 20+ grasses, legumes, herbs and wildflowers from Cotswold Seeds. Applied chicken manure based fertiliser which is particularly high in N and P (phosphorus is vital for good root growth). Relatively early days but in the past 4 years, it was a struggle to grow grass beyond 3-4” high, roots penetrated the ground by 1” max and the soil, when dug had no discernible odour - it was basically dirt. Aside from supporting the new growth, where I have had cause to dig it the smell is reminiscent of a forest floor; it’s alive again! Feel free to PM me if you’d like any more detail. All the best.

What a cracking read! Many thanks to TVI and all the other contributors for so generously sharing your experiences and wisdom. I’m hoping to soon become the proud custodian of a modest 7 acre broadleaf woodland in NE Scotland. It’s taken almost a year to get to the point of engaging solicitors to conclude the purchase and I’m trying hard not to get ahead of myself but reading this I’m like the proverbial child in a sweet shop!

Firstly the winch - much easier and smoother than pushing the saw, the pricey rail system is superb and the synchronised rise/fall is way better than the chewing gum u-bolts on the columns of the Alaskan. The Alaskan works well, but if you’re planning to do a lot of milling I don’t think you’d regret the extra investment in a Panther.

Yup, dipped a toe in the water with an Alaskan Small Log Mill on a 361, got hooked, bought a full Alaskan Mill and ran it with a 460 and 25” bar, finally settled on a 660 with a 30” bar. I have no need to go bigger because I’ve got next to no mechanical handling aides. The 460 was a brilliant all rounder but I could have saved a fair amount of cash by going straight to the 660. I imagine the 880/881 is in a different league again. I would also say that, IMHO, the Panther mills address every one of the foibles with the Alaskan. If I was starting again, it would be with a Panther.

As has been said already, a razor sharp chain is the simplest safeguard for your saw, and perhaps dialling the oiler up to max. If in doubt, time each cut and resharpen as soon as the cuts slow down.

I’ve just bought some as a trial, price being the only reason to venture away from Stihl Synthplus - bought from my local Stihl dealer on account of their crews preferring it, albeit the salesman said it was more viscous, which made me twitch a bit... Planning to run it in my MS260 firewood saw and see what happens.

Any recommendations on bar oil @spudulike? Couldn’t agree more on the need for regular maintenance ?

Bilt Hamber Surfex HD is just one of those labour-saving products everyone needs in their life, it is fantastic stuff. Not suggesting it replaces the need for regular cleaning and maintenance but well worth trying if things get away from you. Regarding bar oil, what are people using? I’ve always used Stihl Synthplus without issue but is there something better out there..?

@tim361 I spoke with Andrew (Shavey) earlier today, he has and was very complimentary about the service received from Robin, albeit I understand there was a modest duty charge levied on the saw he bought.

PM’d you, thanks?

Afternoon all, I’m looking for a 60cc saw to complement my MS260 (firewood saw) and MS660 (milling saw) for felling stuff just beyond the comfortable reach of the 260. I used to have a 361, stupidly sold it and have regretted it since. I’m not wed to Stihl and value durability and reliability over bells and whistles, so no interest in the 362... I’ve looked at importing a 361 which is still manufactured and supplied to several markets but shipping and import duty make it impractical. Does anyone happen to have a mint, low hour saw they’d be willing to sell? Of the new saws on offer, I suspect a Makita ea6100 would be one of the better choices but, per another thread here, I wonder how long spares will be available..? Thanks, Andy

Cheers John, will do! A superb saw also but her indoors just doesn't understand the need for four so it has to go :-(

I have used chainsaws for 20+ years with no formal training, notably a good many years chopping firewood with my Dad as a teenager with a Pro-Mac 650 fitted with a 20" bar. Looking back, attention to safety was poor as was health - it used to kill my back after a few hours' use. I now cut firewood with a oft-maligned Stihl MS260 fitted with a 15" bar & .325 chain. It weighs nothing, can be used for hours without a twinge and is remarkably capable - easy to start, utterly reliable and underrated in my humble opinion. With the benefit of hindsight, I would second all of the advice offered here by professional users: buy a reputable powerhead - that should be with you for a long time, opt for the shortest bar that will fulfill your needs, buy good quality trousers/helmet and boots, and buy a decent book - Amazon predictably offer a multitude, a few of which are well reviewed. The book should illustrate how to hold the saw securely, best practice cutting techniques, body position for task, etc. The manual will likely cover this too, but the black and white cartoons aren't always quite as clear as they could be. A sharp chain also makes for a safer saw - when it cuts of it's own accord and you don't have to fight it through the cut... Well worth considering one of the filing jigs that guide a handfile to give the right tooth profile, or you could splash out on one of the guided 12v chain tooth grinders, as sold by Rob D through this forum for example. Cheers, AndrewS

Mike, Another proponent of the Alaskan Mill range here - and indeed the ongoing support from Rob D. I started with an MS361 (now for sale!) and the Alaskan Small Log Mill. The SLM is great for, well, smaller stuff! I recently used it to re-saw two rock-hard 20' x 11"x6" reclaimed pitch pine beams and it did a terrific job - pics to follow in due course. I also recently bought a 36" Alaskan Mill but haven't yet had time to commission it properly, despite a fast-growing log pile. In anticipation, I bought a cracking MS660, but as a hobby/small-scale DIY user it's overkill for my humble needs so it too is for sale (see classifieds), 361 & 660 both now superseded by an MS460. I may regret it - all advice certainly points towards more power, but with a well sharpened ripping chain, good quality bar, decent oiler and patience, most things are possible! I can't really justify the 660 hanging around for milling and to be frank, I find it just a bit too cumbersome and weighty as an all-rounder - hence the 460. Anyway, I digress; you could do a lot worse than a 36" Alaskan - they are likely to have high residual value if looked after so you could always sell it on if you really don't find favour with it - but that's pretty unlikely. Cheers, AndrewS

As mentioned earlier in the thread, my MS660 will appear for sale in the classifieds imminently...

And another for FR Jones!! Just bought an MS460, considerably cheaper than the local dealer and delivered overnight by Fedex. Can't recommend them highly enough!

Guss109 - where did you do your course if you don't mind me asking? And would you recommend them to others? I'm in Banchory, hence the interest... Brgds, Andrew

How about the MS660 I'm about to sell ;-) ?! Superb saw, but just too big for my modest needs... Andrew

I've wondered the same thing myself but can't really see how it would make any useful difference. Fine in a high-performance 4-stroke with knock sensor and variable ignition timing, but chuff all benefit in a simple 2-stroke because there's no way (that I'm aware of) to advance ignition timing to increase cylinder pressure (& hence efficiency/power). Having just come back from a break in the US, interesting to note that they can only buy 87, 89 or 91 octane at the pump - yet Sthil claim similar power output across the product range (vs UK). My conclusion; keep the chain sharp, the air filter clean and use fresh 95RON fuel from a reputable supplier.

Does anyone remember the main differences between the old 046 and current MS460? Specs suggest the 046 was fractionally more powerful (6.1bhp vs 6.0bhp) and the 460 has tool-less filler caps - anything else..?? Cheers, Andrew