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TPO trees and owl boxes?


chrisjpainter
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We're thinking of installing an owl box into an oak tree. the site's pretty good for barn owls, but the tree in question has a TPO on it and the Barn Owl Trust weren't sure if this would cause a problem legally. Their recommendation is a 4 inch coach screw as a fixing, but they weren't sure if this would break TPO laws. Does anyone know? If an issue, would strapping that could be released as the tree grows be acceptable?

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2 minutes ago, chrisjpainter said:

We're thinking of installing an owl box into an oak tree. the site's pretty good for barn owls, but the tree in question has a TPO on it and the Barn Owl Trust weren't sure if this would cause a problem legally. Their recommendation is a 4 inch coach screw as a fixing, but they weren't sure if this would break TPO laws. Does anyone know? If an issue, would strapping that could be released as the tree grows be acceptable?

Ask the local T.O .

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57 minutes ago, Khriss said:

Owls sleep in the day an theyre pecky bastards , K

my plan was to put it up before it had an owl in it...the chances of getting one in are low  when it's in the tree, but probably infinitely better than its current status of being in the shed. unbuilt.

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Officially it is an offence to wilfully damage a TPO'd tree. It's a strange concept, requiring both damage and the intention to cause it, or in some interpretations the infliction of damage that is foreseeable and avoidable even if the intent isn't malicious. However, a couple of bolts will inflict minimal damage and I'd be surprised if there was a public interest to be served in prosecuting it if it has been done sensitively and for a purpose (bird box) that indicates appreciation of the tree as an asset.

The key would have to be the use of something non-toxic (stainless steel ideally) that allows the box to move as the tree puts on annual rings. S it will be desirable to stop the box rattling, the attachment needs to be firm. For me this has always meant three points of attachment. The bolts (definitely never nails) have to go into pre-drilled holes to avoid splitting and infection and need to be perfectly parallel. If they are all angled very slightly downwards into the stem the weight of the box will keep it snug to the tree but as the tree grows the box will be pushed out and slightly up. So the bolts need to have smooth exposed shanks or a sleeve of plastic pipe e.g. 15mm heating pipe. Even better is the plastic pipe inserts used with heating pipe. Perfection is those on threaded rod, which allows the fixings to be attached and then the box put on afterwards, and end-stop nylock nuts.

Or you could use Arborbolts (Google it) almost proof of intention not to damage. Expensive, but not in the long term.

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