chrisjpainter

It had the feel of 'adding a dash of oil' when I saw him do it, but both saws had been running fine up until then. like I said it wasn't the ideal situation. My village had had a lot of trees down over the weekend, so I'd emptied my supply. Then I got this call, but I didn't have time to get any more in and mix myself. I knew a lad like that but it was his trainer's fault (so he told me...). Apparently he was asked to mix the fuel for one of the first actual cutting sessions. He was told mix it 1:50 and his trainer watched him diligently fill a 5l can with a 1:50 ratio...the wrong way round. The trainer only jumped in once the lad had fill his own saw but hadn't passed it round the group. I never asked whether he genuinely thought it was 50 parts oil, or he just had a brain fade. Seemed a bit harsh of the trainer to wait until he'd filled the saw before stepping in, but I guess he never forgot it!

Read the ******* post! 'I have always just played it manual-safe'. I did read the manual and have always run it by the manual. This came up because someone was saying something different to the manual and I wanted to see if others did this. If someone with a lot more experience than you tells you something, it's worth at least considering before dismissing it, hence the post. It wasn't an ideal situation. He provided the fuel for the day and we started with his ready mixed stuff and the half tank I'd managed to put into mine before heading over. As we were both running 1:50 saws, I'd assumed (because manuals are usually best followed) that he'd be packing 1:50 fuel. It was only towards the end of the afternoon that we'd burned through the last of the ready mixed that I got to see his less than accurate mixing style. It was immediately obvious that that mix had come out different as mine wouldn't start, so I had to top up, but fortunately only for the last couple of refills before the day was done.

Mmmhmm. And what's odd is as we were cutting (ringing), he needed to mix more fuel, as we'd burned ready mixed stuff through. An exact science it was not! Whatever he put in, my Husky was deeply unimpressed and needed a part capful of oil to get it to go. It sounds like manual safe is the better option.

I run a 550xp mk2 and have always just played it manual-safe at 1:50, but I was talking to a chap today who reckons they run better on something closer to 1:60. Any thoughts on whether this is actually true? Also, just because it runs better, doesn't mean it's not got the potential to do long-term damage to it! Any info gratefully digested

I hate the whole sorry lot of you. New 550XP mk2 purchased.😂 Thank you all for your replies - whether on the thread or via PM - it's made an annoying process much easier and more informed.

Oh that too!

Right now, if I was given the choice between a mk 1 550 and cholera, I'd happily take cholera.

That was often the case with the Mk1, but I thought they'd fixed a lot of the issues with the new one? Slightly concerning that this is still a dividing characteristic between it and its rivals. Any of you XP550mk2 users find the same?

Okay that was a master (two)stroke. To dodge both a limmerick and even an easy haiku is commitment to the cause! Well played there;well played indeed!

I'm guessing you've not been felling hardwoods with the 390? Or has it been handling that too??

Nope! you'll have to do better than that!😆 A sonnet in full iambic pentameter is the bare minimum I'm expecting...

I'm looking at a pretty expensive bill on my 550XPG Mk1 and am starting to think that maybe writing it off and starting again could be a better bet in the long run. To that end, I'd love suggestions for an appropriate saw for anything within the remit of CS30/31. I do do some felling of hardwoods (and would be tomorrow if my 550 wasn't knockin' on heaven's door), and then all the usual limbing and so forths. I'm really looking at one of Stihl, Echo or POSSIBLY Husqvarna, but you'd have to be the greatest salesperson in the world to convince me. It's not just this saw, I've had problems with other kit too (It's not user fault, I promise!), so I'm...dubious...about them these days. So what would people put on the menu?

Thanks for that. I've just watched a you tube video and can handle that! This feels like it is going to get expensive...

Little ******* started first time just now! SN. 2014 0800551. So I'd guess Mk1?

My 505xp ain't a happy bunny. It's taking forever to start (if it does at all) and I think the compression is low. Is the lifting with the pull cord a reliable way to test the pressure? I read that if I lift slowly just with the cord, it should be able to support the saw and not just un wind. True story? My saw stays on the floor and the cord just unwinds. Right now the saw popped on second pull, but then has refused point blank to go any further. If the compression is low, I'm assuming it's a leak from somewhere/something. any suggestions as to what to start with would be really useful before I take it in to somewhere! Many thanks, Chris

Yup. A new statement is expected on the 5th November, but until then, no more new work is being taken.

Ah excellent. I've used them for outdoor kit, but I wasn't sure if there was anything technical that had to be done with them given they're chainsaw boots and not just standard walking boots

The top lace hook has just snapped off my chainsaw boots. I've had a quick look online and can't find anything about repair potential. Is it possible to get the hook replaced? annoyingly, the rivet's well attached, it's just the hook that's snapped away.

That's brilliant, thank you so much. I will look in on that

Ooops! added one too many picture there...no velociraptors were present during the taking of these photos. This explanation is now going to look weird if the picture's not there...

I work for a charity in Dorset and we've got a bank of mixed trees - ash, oak, field maple and hazel. The ash trees are in a shocking state and from what I've read, many of the symptoms seem to coincide with dieback - but the spanner in the works is a lot of the trees look like that! They're exposed to strong coastal winds, so the damage maybe just the result of a poor climate. On the other hand, if it's dieback as well, we can't really leave them for nature to take its course. Is there anything definitive that I should be looking for. There are some dead, blackened leaves in the leaf litter and many with brown veins - but then the maples and oaks have got evidence of this too... I have pictures... if they're helpful. Any advice would be great.

When I first got the helmet, it happened constantly immediately out of the box, so I did an exchange. This one's been fine for a two or three years, now all of a sudden they just won't stay in. Replacement ear defenders seem to be the only way forward now.

I have a Husqvarna Technical Forest helmet. Bought on the design of the visor as much as anything, but in the last couple of months the ear defenders have been falling out constantly when you flick them in or out. Once in, they stay in, but any movement to flick them out or in and they come out of their fixing in your hand. It's getting pretty annoying, but there's plenty of life in the helmet, so it doesn't need replacing yet. Anyone come across this and know of anything that can be done? Any cunning hack or quick fix?

Thanks guys, I will look into them

Anyone got any suggestions as to where to get spare parts? I need the muffler gasket and sleeves for self same bolts, but I've not found anyone down here who stocks them. Local to Dorchester, Dorset if possible, but online if not.