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My clutch unwound itself


Al Slitter
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2 hours ago, openspaceman said:

It looked like a Husky style bastard thread clutch centre rather than the Stihl type with the retaining E clip and inboard clutch

 

Oh right, anything I've got with a rim sprocket has a cup washer and E clip.

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When I was at college I was told a story about a 346xp being revved up without the side cover on, the clutch unwound itself as the saw was throttled back, hit the bench and went straight through a breezeblock wall. There was a patch in the workshop wall so I presumed it was true.

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On 27/10/2020 at 09:39, Al Slitter said:

Greetings everyone, I decided to remove the .050 -7 sprocket from my saw so that I could install a .058 -7 sprocket to

allow me to use a .058 bar and chain. This seemed to go well and the saw came together without the chain jamming like it would do before.

I took the saw out to make some cuts and it worked it seemed OK for cuts near the motor but when using the middle of the bar I had some issues?

In addition I had some issues with fuel so I packed things up and took the saw home.

When in my shop I removed the bar, chain and clutch cover and started adjusting the H L and Idol screws, while doing this all of a sudden parts

of the clutch assembly and sprocket started flying every where.

I gathered the parts that where scattered every where but have one item that I am not able to find and that is the clutch return spring.

My thought is that the tighten-er on the clutch reversed itself and unwound until it flew apart. I know that I tightened up the clutch retainer but

maybe not enough. I used a SS pin as a drift and a hammer to do the tightening and the UN-tightening when removing the clutch.

I will keep looking for the spring as it has to be some where however failing that I will purchase a new clutch assembly.

Have I did something wrong? I do not want this to happen again.

Thoughts please !

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Need to grease that roller bearing before reinstalling it's a regular needed thing also.

The rim sprocket makes Naff all to do with 0.50-0.58-0.63 etc as there Kerf ie thickness of chain and teeth along with slot in bar.

But what the rim sprocket does make heel of a difference is is with the gauge ie distance between each pick up tooth on chain so it has to match chain type be it 325 3/8 or the any of the others.

If you look on sprocket you removed it should be marked/stamped the Gauge also should be marked on bar length.Gauge and pitch ie 15"/38.325.0.58".  if bars 0.50 won't run with a .58 chain as that's thicker so will bind on bar.like wise if 0.58 bar 0.50 will cause issues as chain will flop and run at angles.

Get the right parts for the job or take it somewhere that does as you sound like an Accident just waiting to happen?

Chainsaws do not take Prisoners just hands/limbs even heads along with torsos so be warned.

That washer goes in before drum it runs over oil pump

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First off thank you for the reply!

Regarding greasing of the needle bearings that is a very good recommendation.

 

A bit confused by the remainder of the comment, as it now stands I have a 0.058 Sprocket, Bar and Chain on the saw.

No Mix and match there!

 

As always thank you for you assistance.

 

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On 31/10/2020 at 22:54, Al Slitter said:

First off thank you for the reply!

Regarding greasing of the needle bearings that is a very good recommendation.

 

A bit confused by the remainder of the comment, as it now stands I have a 0.058 Sprocket, Bar and Chain on the saw.

No Mix and match there!

 

As always thank you for you assistance.

 

But sprockets don't come in 0.58 0.58 is the Gauge ie width .sprockets need to be right for the Pitch of chain(Distance between pick up teeth on chain)

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Thank you all for the replies.
The saw is basically a No name Chinese 50cc saw.
This is my first saw and it is a learning experience for a Newbie like me.
First thing I will address is the order that I used to install the parts back on the saw.
1. Installed the needle bearing.
2. Put the sprocket on the clutch housing.
3. Put the washer on the inside of the clutch housing.
4. Screwed on the clutch in a counter clockwise  direction and peened it into a locked position.
This is the order that I believe the clutch/sprocket came out of the saw.
 
The point of not removing the chain and bar to do fuel adjustments is to me dangerous as one can have on an occasion
of the chain moving at a higher RPM. Yes using the chain locking mechanism would add extra safety.
I will consider this going forward.
 
If you see that I have done the installation incorrectly please advise me.
 

I would strongly suggest you bin it.
Don’t buy fake copies.
If you are going to use a chainsaw, buy a saw with actual “working” safety features.
What you have is an accident waiting to happen.
Be wise.
[emoji106]
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On 31/10/2020 at 22:54, Al Slitter said:

First off thank you for the reply!

Regarding greasing of the needle bearings that is a very good recommendation.

 

A bit confused by the remainder of the comment, as it now stands I have a 0.058 Sprocket, Bar and Chain on the saw.

No Mix and match there!

 

As always thank you for you assistance.

 

So what is the Pitch of the Chain-Bar--Sprocket? as i guess way to speak of it that it isn't a hub sprocket? but the slide on ring type with slots round outside.

Sprockets also need changing as wear/replace chains also. there not a fit and forget item just like the roller bearing also.

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