Al Slitter

What do you recommend as a washing agent?

Greetings All; I have finally got the machine back together after removing the oil pump and oil pump tubing. I cleaned them off and used WD-40 in a spray can as a low pressure spray. The inside of this housing was loaded with sawdust mixed with oil, so clean this area out with Kerosene and a clean rag. I place the blade and bar back on the saw and tested it. Oil is now flowing freely from the Bar/Chain. Hurray! The issue I believe was a restriction or plugging up of the tubing running from the oil pump. As they say alls well that ends well! Thank you to those that tried to help and provided good comments and instructions. Thank Again

Thank you for the detailed instructions, you might have just hit on the right solutions. The reason the saw was down was do to me replacing the clutch assembly. This I did, so I will take it apart again and see it there is an oiler issue. Please be patient as I am a newbie and am just learning these things through working on the saw and being a older person processing time is long.

I came here for help not cheesy comments.

Sorry for the delay I have been very busy plus we have had a cold running through our family here. I tried many suggestions which include adding a little bit of fuel to the chain oil to thin it out a bit as it is now cool here. I changed over the bar to another one and the issue is the same. I removed all of the parts on the chain saw where the oiler is located and made sure that the oil holes on the chain saw bar are unobstructed. I cleaned in and around the oil port on the saw and that is clean and much like new. The saw is a 50cc Chinese chain saw. What is happening now is that I am getting a lot of oil when the saw is running coming from the bottom of the saw at or just in front of the clutch assembly. I had thought that previously when the saw was running and pointing downward chain oil would come off of the chain on the end of the bar. This is not the case now and the oil situation is bad as I am getting a lot of oil coming out of the motor area and not the chain. Thoughts please.

Thank you for the replies. I will attempt some of them and reply back with the results and specification if necessary!

Hello my saw has been down for 2 months now waiting for parts from China. I got the parts and assembled it and tested it out and it worked fine, that is prior to this the saw would output a lot of oil through the chain saw bar. This is not happening now, oil is coming out of the oiler on the chain saw housing but I cannot see any oil of consequences on the bar. I checked the bar oil hole and it was fine I have set the oil quantity screw to high but no difference. A few thoughts please. Thank you in advance.

I am hoping that this reply puts this post to rest. I feels like a shooting gallery to me. OK, I have the sprocket in my hand and it says 325-7 The bar says Pitch of .325 and Gauge @ 1.5mm (.058) The chain is listed as Pitch of .325 and Gauge @ 1.5mm (.058) and 76 links Please let this end here!!!

First off thank you for the reply! Regarding greasing of the needle bearings that is a very good recommendation. A bit confused by the remainder of the comment, as it now stands I have a 0.058 Sprocket, Bar and Chain on the saw. No Mix and match there! As always thank you for you assistance.

This style of locking does not use a clip but rather uses the clutch retainer to lock it into place.

Thank you all for the replies. The saw is basically a No name Chinese 50cc saw. This is my first saw and it is a learning experience for a Newbie like me. First thing I will address is the order that I used to install the parts back on the saw. 1. Installed the needle bearing. 2. Put the sprocket on the clutch housing. 3. Put the washer on the inside of the clutch housing. 4. Screwed on the clutch in a counter clockwise direction and peened it into a locked position. This is the order that I believe the clutch/sprocket came out of the saw. The point of not removing the chain and bar to do fuel adjustments is to me dangerous as one can have on an occasion of the chain moving at a higher RPM. Yes using the chain locking mechanism would add extra safety. I will consider this going forward. If you see that I have done the installation incorrectly please advise me.

Greetings everyone, I decided to remove the .050 -7 sprocket from my saw so that I could install a .058 -7 sprocket to allow me to use a .058 bar and chain. This seemed to go well and the saw came together without the chain jamming like it would do before. I took the saw out to make some cuts and it worked it seemed OK for cuts near the motor but when using the middle of the bar I had some issues? In addition I had some issues with fuel so I packed things up and took the saw home. When in my shop I removed the bar, chain and clutch cover and started adjusting the H L and Idol screws, while doing this all of a sudden parts of the clutch assembly and sprocket started flying every where. I gathered the parts that where scattered every where but have one item that I am not able to find and that is the clutch return spring. My thought is that the tighten-er on the clutch reversed itself and unwound until it flew apart. I know that I tightened up the clutch retainer but maybe not enough. I used a SS pin as a drift and a hammer to do the tightening and the UN-tightening when removing the clutch. I will keep looking for the spring as it has to be some where however failing that I will purchase a new clutch assembly. Have I did something wrong? I do not want this to happen again. Thoughts please !

I am retired and have lived here for over 16 years now. I live in Northern Thailand with my family of many years. I want to thank all those that contributed to my request for help and want to close this channel as I have what I needed. I do not wish to continue with a political or personal country issues going forward. So please accept that and let us switch back to issues relating to chain saws. Thank you again!

You both make a very good point. I was speaking from my point of view and not the general Thai population. If you check things out in more detail you might find that only Thai nationals who are registered to cut wood would get a permit. Foreigners such as my self are not part of the registration process. One last point being able to apply for this permit is one thing the other is in getting it.

Many people put on a longer bar and that is illegal and being imprisoned for some time is always a possibility so one has to be very careful of what you do or say! If you are a foreigner like me once released I would be deported. Removing the air constrictor is also a crime and the punishnt would be the same. Big Brother is live and well here, it is now worse since the military took over the government. The generals look to the CPP as a model that would work well for them. It is surprising that this is a shock to many as the Les Majesty laws here provide for 13 years in prison for any comment or action that might effect/attach the monarchy.

Here in Thailand there is NO used chain saws available be they cheap Chinese versions or higher quality German, American etc. It is important to remember that the Thai regulations basically kill quality higher performance Chain saws period.

I am sorry about the font changes I tried to get it normalized but nothing worked so I had to just submit it. The issue started when I did a cut and past of the chain and bar parameters.

First off I want to thank everyone who took the time to respond. OK what you do not know and fail to understand is that I am retired and live in Thailand. Here the government has draconian laws about blade length and HP rating. The government will not allow any saw to be imported that has a bar length of more than 11.5" regarding the motor the HP output must be below .9 of a HP. Well how dos this work? First off a chain saw of let us say 50cc's would normally come from outside the country and the manufacture or consolidator wouds swap out the 18" or 20" bar for a 11.5" to meet import requirements. The second is is the HP rating which has to be below .9 HP. This is done by the consolidator adding into the saw a re-stricter devise into the air flow thus lowering its performance to below the .9HP maximum rating. Once the model is approved and is imported many resellers her simple remove the re stricter and the HP then reaches the level it was intended to achieve. With the blade length All saw are sold with a blade length of 11.5" As an owner failure to operate or own a saw with a longer blade is punishable by a jail term. The police are not set up to check the HP rating so the risk comes with travelling with a saw with a bar of more that 11.5" The irony here is that longer blades are readily available for purchase but the risk is on the owner not the store. OK about my saw is is a 50cc saw, producing 2Kw of power which equates to 2.7HP, when I bought this sa the seller lied to me and stated that the saw produces 3.5HP. The model number of the saw is DD-5880 which leaves one with the impression that the saw is 58cc and at this mark would yield an out put of near 3.5HP. Getting back to my issue and my options as I have in my shop new 20" bar and 3- 20"0.325" Pitch 0.058" Gauge 76 DL (Peco Style or Low Profile). The cheapest option is changing out the sprocket and once that works looking at an option to see if the existing 11.5 chain and bar can function with the larger sprocket. If not I will then have to acquire a new bar and chain. One last point I will be doing an extensive muffler modification which should yield an approximate 25% increase in horse power. In addition I will then be looking at doing a conservative engine porting job which should add additional HP. If I had a choice I would simply purchase a new 70 to 80cc chain saw but due to government rules the saw would not be allowed into the country. Sad Sad Sad!

I purchased a Chinese chain saw it came with a 11.5" bar and chain and it works well. Because I want to run this saw for milling of wood I want to increase the bar and chain length to 18" or 20". I purchased on line a 20" bar ( .325 058 gauge 76DL chain) and a chain to match. When I tried to set it up and started to tighten up the chain the chain locks up. I then purchased a 18" bar and chain (0.325" .058" Gauge 72DL) and the chain locked up as well. I am now starting to believe that the movable sprocket might be the issue. The specifications for the 11.5" bar and chain is 3/8" .050 43DL . I am hoping the some might have a inexpensive solution as I have been purchasing things but am no longer ahead.