Q's on 'proper muffler-modding' (and basic/entry chainsaw mods in-general)

[Stubby]

9 hours ago, NFG said:

That your 395 Stubby? bet its loud!

Thats the 390 . Have an identical one on the 372 .

[MattyF]

Please tell me you didn’t just drill a hole in that muffler with it still attached?!

Yep and I’ve done 4 150’s with never an issue with swarf , start em up straight away and blow it out if there is any ,but usually if you use a good drill bit it will come out in one sliver on the drill as the metals so soft ...if there is any dust it blasts straight out under pressure.

[spudulike]

I would always remove the muffler to mod it, only ever done one attached to the machine (MS200T) and I started it when drilling to ensure all the swarf got blown out.

I rarely use a drill on mufflers now and try to get the flow of exhaust away from plastics and more in line with the manufacturers intended direction.

[wyk]

22 hours ago, spudulike said:

That exhaust port looks like it hasn't been machined correctly to me!

It may be a clamshell with a 90* angled exhaust port, A La Echo and old Macs. Here's an Echo 355t:

 

This isn't directed at Steve, but the OP:

 

How a saw behaves with the exhaust modified varies. The 'too much' part is when it starts to blow exhaust on plastics, or just gets too loud. Some exhausts have baffles inside that will go a long ways to defeating any improvements on the external venting if they are not removed. You will almost always need to retune the carburettor.

 

Always mod the muffler off of the saw. If your piston is at TDC and you pull it over without it igniting any mix, it may actually suck in whatever is in the exhaust instead of blow it out. The last thing you need in a 2t engine is a load of steel shavings.

Edited February 8, 2020 by wyk

[CutterSy]

Yep and I’ve done 4 150’s with never an issue with swarf , start em up straight away and blow it out if there is any ,but usually if you use a good drill bit it will come out in one sliver on the drill as the metals so soft ...if there is any dust it blasts straight out under pressure.

To each their own, if it’s your own saws and you know the risks then fine.
I would never do it on the saw and spend a good amount of time making triple sure there is no swarf left in there! I tend to split the muffler where possible to get better access to the baffle, it’s not always the best option to gut it completely though! Depends if other port work is getting done as to how much to open it up, take it too far and you loose gains.
I use chipper spec ear defenders now!

[MattyF]

If there is one saw that benefits from a mod out the box to completely void the warranty it’s the 150 .. the saw is unusable with out it, to be honest I’ve had three unmodded echo 2511’s since saw and I doubt I would buy another 150... any other serious tuning work I give to spud or mild porting myself when replacing pistons etc usually means the saws apart but I don’t do anything drastic !

[Wonky]

18 hours ago, CutterSy said:

 

Please tell me you didn’t just drill a hole in that muffler with it still attached?!

 

Here's some  proof,,, and I think reg is a good guy and a laugh. I watch his vids..?.. ymmv ?

 

Edited February 8, 2020 by Wonky
Auto correct

[CutterSy]

Here's some  proof,,, and I think reg is a good guy and a laugh. I watch his vids..[emoji106].. ymmv [emoji6]
 

Reg clearly didn’t care what happened to that saw as he stated at the start.
Do what you want to your own saws, I’m sure if your careful you’d get away with it a bunch of times. But if you do this be prepared for the possibility of needing to rebuild the engine.
To me it’s not worth the risk, for the sake of taking the muffler off and doing it properly.

[spudulike]

In life there are technicians, blacksmiths and rednecks. I can't charge people to drill holes like that and call it a business so use methods that are engineered, calculated, look nice and work without burning your leg or the saws plastics.

My muffler mods won't deafen the operator but do what they need to, increase the flow without being stupidly loud.

The end result may be similar but it just depends on what the saws owner is looking for.

 

[Treerover]

If there is one saw that benefits from a mod out the box to completely void the warranty it’s the 150 .. the saw is unusable with out it, to be honest I’ve had three unmodded echo 2511’s since saw and I doubt I would buy another 150... any other serious tuning work I give to spud or mild porting myself when replacing pistons etc usually means the saws apart but I don’t do anything drastic !

Have you tried the 151 though?
I used one yesterday for a day and it flew. Couldn’t fault it (reducing a BIG Oak), but then I’ve never used the Echo.
I’m literally about to purchase either the Echo or the 151.
How do you find availability for spares on the Echo?