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CutterSy

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About CutterSy

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 20/04/1982

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  • Location:
    Hampshire
  • Occupation
    Forestry

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  1. Well that was a lot to digest. I’m not familiar with the models of saw you are modifying so it’s difficult to visualise, pictures would help. If you want to dive down the rabbit hole of porting have a read of some of the links in this thread: Chainsaw porting thread links | Outdoor Power Equipment Forum OPEFORUM.COM Links to porting threads in one place. Please no banter there's plenty of places for that.Feel free to post your favorite thread link. Here are some... ‘How’ to mod a muffler depends on the design and what will fit under/ around covers etc. I usually either add a ‘pipe’ by brazing on a piece of steel tubing, or add a deflector by brazing on a formed piece of sheet steel. I generally either put big holes in or remove the baffle. There are no hard and fast rules, you just need to experiment and see what works for you. I find the more ported cylinders benefit from a more open muffler, but it’s all a balancing act. The more air/fuel that goes in, the more needs to get out (within reason)
  2. The one I use is a very positive engagement and will push the 200hp tractor along in neutral. Only time it’s needed is when I’ve got a full load on, so yes it gets you out when loaded. I would imagine if the trees are too worn it wouldn’t work as well, but haven’t found it a problem yet (trailer is 3.5years old)
  3. I use a 14t Farma drive trailer at work. It’s great, but only really able to use it as a get you out of the proverbial. The speed of the motors only drive the wheels at the speed of just over idle in first gear. So would probably take all day to get up that hill. Don’t get me wrong, it’s very good and has got me out of trouble many times. Sounds like a trailer with hub drive would suit you better. Other trailers may have a proportional valve or something to speed up the drive, I only have experience with this one.
  4. Reg clearly didn’t care what happened to that saw as he stated at the start. Do what you want to your own saws, I’m sure if your careful you’d get away with it a bunch of times. But if you do this be prepared for the possibility of needing to rebuild the engine. To me it’s not worth the risk, for the sake of taking the muffler off and doing it properly.
  5. To each their own, if it’s your own saws and you know the risks then fine. I would never do it on the saw and spend a good amount of time making triple sure there is no swarf left in there! I tend to split the muffler where possible to get better access to the baffle, it’s not always the best option to gut it completely though! Depends if other port work is getting done as to how much to open it up, take it too far and you loose gains. I use chipper spec ear defenders now!
  6. Please tell me you didn’t just drill a hole in that muffler with it still attached?!
  7. Have you got pics of the muffler mods you have done? You can get some gains from just opening up the muffler outlet, but usually you need to open up the baffle to get anything worthwhile. Hole size and placement can effect it too. The saw will need a re-tune after.
  8. Really?! Everyone is cutting 1000s on tons of Ash each year. We are having a mild winter as you say. There seems to be plenty around, where are you based?
  9. I find Muck-Off works surprisingly well
  10. Muck-off works really well in my experience. Just spray on let it soak a couple of mins and it rubs off easy with a rag.
  11. CutterSy

    Jokes???

    I went to a small zoo once. In fact there was only one animal, a dog. It was a shitzu
  12. CutterSy

    Husky 346xp

    Bit of Hylomar blue helps seal the pipes to the oil pump, just be careful not to cover the holes. There is a video on youtube
  13. I remember the first full day I spent in a roof mount. When I got home and was stood in the kitchen everything was swaying! You get used to it. I wouldn’t bother messing about with legs, you develop methods of dragging the wood along the ground if it starts to tip you badly. Have had a few moments though. You will find it invaluable as a versatile tool.
  14. I really like the 9010. Yes, it is a boat anchor. But, I’m fairly sure I read somewhere, it has the longest piston stroke. It has bags of torque! Makes a big difference to open up the muffler and re-tune, or even better with port work. I had it on a 3’ bar buried in ash last week and it pulls hard. Really good saw for felling and ringing up big hardwoods [emoji106]
  15. I don’t really care about it cutting quicker out of the box. Chains seem to take a couple of sharpens before they start performing good anyway. What I want to know is, does it hold an edge better? Is it easy to sharpen (hardness)?

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