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Posted
1 minute ago, trigger_andy said:

 

 


I hope so. :)

I’m gonna fire in some 1.5” panel pins. Better than nothing I guess? On the headboard I’ll also splatter some glue on as well. Obviously I can’t do that on the footboard.

But any other suggestions are welcome. :)

 

 

Do not panel pin oak andy as they will rust and stain the wood 

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Posted

Great to be talking my end of work now on here,You lads are all tree cutters (woodmen) I am joiner/carpenter time served and the arb side was always something i did as a young man,Old saying foot on the other shoe on this subject ? Watch out for your fingers andy  ?

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Posted
Just let it dry out steve and it will,Then apply the finish on it.Take 12 months now to totally dry out 


Are you suggesting using it for a year untreated and then add a finish in 12 months time?

I was planning on doing a final sanding then applying. Danish Oil. Would that be a no-no?
Posted
Great to be talking my end of work now on here,You lads are all tree cutters (woodmen) I am joiner/carpenter time served and the arb side was always something i did as a young man,Old saying foot on the other shoe on this subject [emoji106] Watch out for your fingers andy  [emoji375]
Same here, joiner/carpenter with chainsaw work just to keep the home fires burning. Made my own slab bed out of pine. Now making furniture and chainsaw carvings when time allows.
  • Like 1
Posted
Do not panel pin oak andy as they will rust and stain the wood 


Ooooh! Good point!
I know Oak stains badly with Steel, but I did not think it would bleed out of felled Oak. I’ll just leave them then.

Out if interest how does stainless steel affect oak?
Posted
Great to be talking my end of work now on here,You lads are all tree cutters (woodmen) I am joiner/carpenter time served and the arb side was always something i did as a young man,Old saying foot on the other shoe on this subject [emoji106] Watch out for your fingers andy  [emoji375]


Watching my fingers is fully ingrained! [emoji16] There’s an insane number of pinch points on a Drill Floor.

I really like working with wood, one of the reasons for getting the Mill. To take a felled log and turn it into a finished piece of furniture is quite satisfying.

  • Like 3
Posted
Nice work. Couldn't have even attempted that I don't think. 


I think it’s just a case of getting stuck in. Measure twice, still cut wrong and try again. Watch a few YouTube vids and ask loads of questions. The right tools makes a world of difference too.
  • Like 1
Posted

Hi if you are going to peg right through to avoid glue slightly off set the rear dowel hole as then if you leave the peg an inch or so proud if it loosens up as it drys you will be able to tap the dowel in a bit and keep it tight ,that’s how I was taught to do pegs on Oak framing ,Looks Ace ,a bed is one of those things I keep saying I am going to make myself but never get round to it 

  • Like 1
Posted
9 hours ago, gobbypunk said:

Hi if you are going to peg right through to avoid glue slightly off set the rear dowel hole as then if you leave the peg an inch or so proud if it loosens up as it drys you will be able to tap the dowel in a bit and keep it tight ,that’s how I was taught to do pegs on Oak framing ,Looks Ace ,a bed is one of those things I keep saying I am going to make myself but never get round to it 

 

Thats a good tip, cheers. How much would you off-set by? 1mm? 2mm? 

 

Also, as I have a 1/2" Dowel what size of Drill Bit Should I use? 1/2" as well?

 

I did plan on leaving the Pegs proud. I have a mate who's an Oak Framer and he does this. He explained to me that back in the day the Pegs where always cut flush but as the Green  Oak dried the pegs stood proud and thats now the look everyone wants and expects. But here it will actually be a practical reason as well. :D 

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