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Posted
I have sent a few emails I probably need to find someone that has some old stock.
Looking at the old cylinder it's gone through the crome plating on the exhaust side, I'd say the chance of cleaning it up would be slim.
 
The rest of the saw it in excellent condition and I love running it hopefully someone will carry the part and she'll be back to work.. 
 
Worth trying to hone it with some sand paper mate. Sometimes ally deposit can look alot like worn nikasil

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Posted

That is the impuse, who on earth said it would run without one? If the cylinder has no impulse then fit a nipple into the crankcase and take to the cab.

Posted

Yup, ADWs advice is pretty much it, just need a brass pipe union, drill a suitable hole and push it in with a little epoxy or bearing lock to hold it in.

Running without an impulse - easy if you mount the fuel tank on the top of the saw!!!;)

Posted
On 26/06/2019 at 12:21, wyk said:

If it's an early 90's, it's nearly guaranteed to be a 10mm saw.

Take a photo of the top of both cylinders. A serial # under about 1129 is an older, stronger 10mm version.

If possible, clean up the old cylinder. Early 044 and 046 cylinders were the best Stihl ever made.

Replace the catalytic converter if it's still in there with a new muffler, even if it is aftermarket. That cat has killed so many 10mm 044's :(

If it is an auto choke version, which it sounds like it is, then the lack of impulse passage makes sense. If it is not an auto choke carb, you need the standard cylinder set up. At least that's what I was told... I haven't seen an auto choke in person.

One thing to be mindful of, is that if you place a 12mm jug on a 10mm chassis you want to be sure the ring pins on the 10mm piston clears the port.

Serial no 1128

Posted

By virtue of being 1128, it's a 10mm saw. Mine is also a 1128 vintage.

It also makes it a later 10mm, which were the stronger of the bunch.

What Stihl did, tho, was detune it with a cat and retard the timing a touch.

Advancing the timing 6* or so(.025" of the woodruff key), and removing the cat makes these saws run very strong.

If you remove the gasket for more compression, I would stick with .020 of the key just to be safe.

So, yes, that original cylinder is worth saving if you can.

  • Like 2
Posted
11 hours ago, Ds Tree services said:

How will i know if it is a 10mm

Measure the gudgeon pin and little end bearing with a vernier when you take it apart. I don't know why Stihl did a 10mm and 12mm version of the same saw, mine is a 12mm with no cat and it cuts fine. Not much slows it down. I drilled a few holes in the baffle while I had it apart but it still has only one outlet.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
28 minutes ago, spudulike said:

That beast in your Avatar looks a bit like Boris Johnson to me.....some sort of Alpaca?

No, he's a Tory MP isn't he ?

  • Haha 2

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