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Stihl 044 Top end question

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Hi there i sent a early 1990's stihl 044c in for a repair as the top end had locked up. The shop they sent for a genuine still top end however the one that came did not have a breather port on the bottom, sthil state that the top end kit we need is now obssolete so fit that one and see how it goes anyway the shop fitted it the saw runs fine for a minute of to then begins to play up ?? losing fuel pressure at the breather that the cylinder is missing goes to the carb ??

 

My question is where would i be abel to get a top end with the breather at the bottom still no longer carrie one and haven't for 10 years?? I am planning to nip in to the shop in a bit to take a few pics i will post if i can also has anyone else came across this before i think the saw is a 1993 but i can confirm..

 

Thanks in advance men 

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Hi there i sent a early 1990's stihl 044c in for a repair as the top end had locked up. The shop they sent for a genuine still top end however the one that came did not have a breather port on the bottom, sthil state that the top end kit we need is now obssolete so fit that one and see how it goes anyway the shop fitted it the saw runs fine for a minute of to then begins to play up ?? losing fuel pressure at the breather that the cylinder is missing goes to the carb ??
 
My question is where would i be abel to get a top end with the breather at the bottom still no longer carrie one and haven't for 10 years?? I am planning to nip in to the shop in a bit to take a few pics i will post if i can also has anyone else came across this before i think the saw is a 1993 but i can confirm..
 
Thanks in advance men 

Have you compared against a Meteor Cylinder?
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I cleaned up and reused the original cylinder on my early model 044 and can't remember seeing any breather from the cylinder to the carb. Do you mean the impulse ?

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Would this help you discribe it.  

http://oregonvyhne.sk/domains/7l8j90ep7a/my_files/Vkresy/Stihl_044_IPL_.pdf

page 32 has a slant fin cylinder with no decomp 

 

as far as I know all  stihl 2strokes that work from a  diaphragm carb have an impulse line from the crank case.  Part # 0000 988 521

 

but I’ve heard some manufacturers have them in different places.

 

They should of tested the saw before they handed back to you.

 

if it runs for a short time, I think you have other problems, like carb or tank breather 

 

 

 

 

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10 minutes ago, peatff said:

I cleaned up and reused the original cylinder on my early model 044 and can't remember seeing any breather from the cylinder to the carb. Do you mean the impulse ?

Shops won’t entertain trying to clean up cylinders.  Shame thou,that if it’s slant fin cylinder. It is prolly better than a new one if it could be cleaned up

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If it's an early 90's, it's nearly guaranteed to be a 10mm saw.

Take a photo of the top of both cylinders. A serial # under about 1129 is an older, stronger 10mm version.

If possible, clean up the old cylinder. Early 044 and 046 cylinders were the best Stihl ever made.

Replace the catalytic converter if it's still in there with a new muffler, even if it is aftermarket. That cat has killed so many 10mm 044's :(

If it is an auto choke version, which it sounds like it is, then the lack of impulse passage makes sense. If it is not an auto choke carb, you need the standard cylinder set up. At least that's what I was told... I haven't seen an auto choke in person.

One thing to be mindful of, is that if you place a 12mm jug on a 10mm chassis you want to be sure the ring pins on the 10mm piston clears the port.

Edited by wyk
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If it's an early 90's, it's nearly guaranteed to be a 10mm saw.
Take a photo of the top of both cylinders. A serial # under about 1129 is an older, stronger 10mm version.
If possible, clean up the old cylinder. Early 044 and 046 cylinders were the best Stihl ever made.
Replace the catalytic converter if it's still in there with a new muffler, even if it is aftermarket. That cat has killed so many 10mm 044's
If it is an auto choke version, which it sounds like it is, then the lack of impulse passage makes sense. If it is not an auto choke carb, you need the standard cylinder set up. At least that's what I was told... I haven't seen an auto choke in person.
One thing to be mindful of, is that if you place a 12mm jug on a 10mm chassis you want to be sure the ring pins on the 10mm piston clears the port.

Thanks for the advice/heads up above WYK, got a 044 to go through myself and was thinking of going down the Meteor route as compression is pretty much non existent, but will know more when i open her up.

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Mine was seized solid when I got it I had to beat the piston with a rod after I poured penetrating oil down the plug hole and stood it overnight. I was doubtful about the cylinder when I cleaned it up and just put a cheap eBay piston in it but it has been perfect since. It has no decompression and is a 12mm pin model with manual choke, runs well.

044.jpg.251c5235c665ca1963d3f15dead35649.jpg

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Mine was seized solid when I got it I had to beat the piston with a rod after I poured penetrating oil down the plug hole and stood it overnight. I was doubtful about the cylinder when I cleaned it up and just put a cheap eBay piston in it but it has been perfect since. It has no decompression and is a 12mm pin model with manual choke, runs well.
044.jpg.251c5235c665ca1963d3f15dead35649.jpg

I only gave £60 for it, the bloke said it ran but was knackered, i didnt try bartering, i just handed the cash over.
I have a brand new genuine handle and tank for when i start the swap over and some new genuine covers. Was gona go with a meteor cylinder kit if needed, but will see when it comes in bits, not sure if its a 10mm or 12mm. All a learning curve

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