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Husky 560 XP broken brake handle nipple stud


Gnarlyoak
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5 hours ago, Gnarlyoak said:

Managed to snap off the nipple stud to which the right hand side of the chain brake handle screws into. Effectively this now mean I can't secure the handle to the body of the saw. So far so bad, but the loss of this screw point means that I can't operate the chain brake on the saw, as the handle flaps about and I'm unable to generate sufficient cohesive force to lock or unlock the chain brake.

I have tried to fix by attempting to mould a new stud with a metal epoxy putty which I intend to tap to create a new screw hole. But doesn't matter if I leave it to cure for the recommended 1 hr or 12, the metal putty will not bond to the  body of the saw and it just breaks away. My guess is because the saws body shell is some kind of alloy!?!

Anyone any ideas or recommendation on how to fix this issue or am I looking at having to replace the entire casing of the saw body????

Attached pics show broken stud, and what it should look like (pic of stud on other side of saw)

 

Husky 560 1.jpg

Husky 560 2.jpg

Husky 560 3.jpg

Husky 560 4.jpg

I cannot see how thick it is or how much space behind but a firm that does Rivnuts would be able to drill the hole oversize, perhaps ding the exhaust and then  insert the rivnut from one side so it grips a bit like an oversize pop rivet but with a thread down the middle.

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The later 560 has the flywheel side in magnesium and the brake side in aluminum, with all the short blocks that have gone out i am sure there are plenty of s/h crankcases out there that can be had, dealers must have plenty as they all fit short blocks rather than rebuild bottom ends.

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I think I have binned all our ones but I will have a look next week.

 

I dont envy trying to repair that but it is a fair cost to replace the case as you have to buy both sides and it does really need a few specialist/homemade tools to disassemble and rebuild the crankcase. You need to attach a post with an internal thread, I dont think it will be that easy to sort out.

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12 hours ago, Mark_Skyland said:

I think I have binned all our ones but I will have a look next week.

 

I dont envy trying to repair that but it is a fair cost to replace the case as you have to buy both sides and it does really need a few specialist/homemade tools to disassemble and rebuild the crankcase. You need to attach a post with an internal thread, I dont think it will be that easy to sort out.

Nail on head there Mark.

 

To my way of thinking  and comparing the damaged stud to the opposite side, what is required is some kind of raised post (5mm high) with an internal thread. It needs to be raised to accommodate the pre-shaped form of the handle. And it has been looked at by a saw service repairman who sucked his teeth and shook his head & warned me it would probably need the entire casing replaced to fix. Clearly an expensive option  to implement on a 2 1/2 yr old saw, upwards at least if not more half the cost of a new saw.

 

Wanted to sound out peeps on here if there was an alternative to having to replace the casing or scrapping what is to me a cracking little saw. Appreciate other comments posted, have to admit some of it has gone over my head.  Whilst I'm no knuckle dragging dummy,  I climb & cut trees me, I don't have much in the way of engineering skills or access & knowledge in the use of lathes & welding equipment!

 

Must admit, as at least one has already suggested, it had crossed my mind to find a local engineering firm to see if they could provide a workable solution. Might be the way forward. It's not that I'm too tight to replace the saw, but I just begrudge having to sacrifice a perfectly serviceable saw to the scrap heap for the sake of a single busted screw hole!!!

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Nail on head there Mark.
 
To my way of thinking  and comparing the damaged stud to the opposite side, what is required is some kind of raised post (5mm high) with an internal thread. It needs to be raised to accommodate the pre-shaped form of the handle. And it has been looked at by a saw service repairman who sucked his teeth and shook his head & warned me it would probably need the entire casing replaced to fix. Clearly an expensive option  to implement on a 2 1/2 yr old saw, upwards at least if not more half the cost of a new saw.
 
Wanted to sound out peeps on here if there was an alternative to having to replace the casing or scrapping what is to me a cracking little saw. Appreciate other comments posted, have to admit some of it has gone over my head.  Whilst I'm no knuckle dragging dummy,  I climb & cut trees me, I don't have much in the way of engineering skills or access & knowledge in the use of lathes & welding equipment!
 
Must admit, as at least one has already suggested, it had crossed my mind to find a local engineering firm to see if they could provide a workable solution. Might be the way forward. It's not that I'm too tight to replace the saw, but I just begrudge having to sacrifice a perfectly serviceable saw to the scrap heap for the sake of a single busted screw hole!!!

Honestly, i bet a local firm could pool weld your casing up solid, and even possibly build up with weld the stubb thats broken and tap to original. If they cant build up the stub with weld then then could just pool weld the casing, buzz it flat, drill and tap, then create another small threaded boss that can be skrewed and loctited in, then form a thread in the middle to mimic original spec. Defo worth an ask.
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