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choosing a replacement wood burner


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7 minutes ago, Stubby said:

What are the requirements for eco design ?

Stubby I don't know them off the top of my head but the bits that interest me are the reduced particulates per kWh of heat produced, I think they also require a minimum efficiency of 80%, which will mean a requirement for very dry wood (I have built a glazed 4M3 wood store  to meet this need). All new stoves will  need to be compliant by 2022 (if I last that long!)

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4 hours ago, richardwale said:

I use a Burley stove, needs very dry wood but by god does it put out the heat, handles a bit naff and it's worth getting the room sealing  kit

Mine is the Nominally 5kw stove but when its on full chat I recon it must be punting out at least 8kw . The handles just need the wall plugs expanding a tad to make a more interference fit . Or a bit of Gorilla glue or similar .  Also mine does not seem to need bone dry wood , ( obviously its desirable ) but 20% or so works fine . I do have a very good draw on the flue though . 

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Have you thought of having a burner built to your own spec. I have contacts who build them usually out of gas bottles but am sure you could get what you want do to your own design have seen some real beautiful burners built in my time living on the road. My own is a right junk heap but it works keeps me warm and boils the kettle sometimes to warm

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40 minutes ago, NickoftheCastle said:

Have you thought of having a burner built to your own spec. I have contacts who build them usually out of gas bottles but am sure you could get what you want do to your own design have seen some real beautiful burners built in my time living on the road. My own is a right junk heap but it works keeps me warm and boils the kettle sometimes to warm

Not in this case, though I have made plenty of stoves on an experimental level.

 

The thing is people are beginning to question wood burning, the chimney is on a party wall with the neighbouring cottage which has been "gentrified" and extended such that it sold for three times what mine is valued at and is owned by a professional couple  of NIMBYs, do I need to add more?

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So your neighbours don't like your wood burning. 

 

Invite them round for a brew and a hobnob, or a choccie digestive if they prefer, sit them in front of your warm and beautifully flickering stove.  If that doesn't start to warm them and get them asking about 'How much are they?'  'are they easy to fit?' 'where do you get the wood? then......

Stick to the laws, burn clean as you can, and when they complain about your noisy and stinky chainsaw point out that cutting and splitting your own wood is by far the best way to ensure the wood you burn is dry.  If they still wrinkly their nose tell them to do one.

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17 hours ago, Stubby said:

Mine is the Nominally 5kw stove but when its on full chat I recon it must be punting out at least 8kw . The handles just need the wall plugs expanding a tad to make a more interference fit . Or a bit of Gorilla glue or similar .  Also mine does not seem to need bone dry wood , ( obviously its desirable ) but 20% or so works fine . I do have a very good draw on the flue though . 

I've got a bigger Burley, 8KW nominal I think but ~12 peak. The moisture meter that comes with it protests about wood that's more than 16% moisture, but it actually burns damper wood without problem - just a smidge less heat, obviously. It really does punt the heat out anyway, and having just had mine swept, there wasn't much clag in the chimney, even after a long winter of burning "dry" logs I bought that were not. (Once I ran out of my own properly seasoned stuff). Though I did do my best to stack em by the fire for a day or two before burning. Does get through quite a lot of logs, but it's heating a big cold room. Oh, and the draw on my flue is pretty bad when lighting, but fine once it's going.

 

Agreed re room kit, no one needs a cold draught down their bum crack when feeding the stove.

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