Which Chainsaw As Next Purchase

[tree-fancier123]

if you buy a tape measure you won't have to do CS32 - just stick to trees under 380mm

[Jamie Jones]

3 hours ago, Cheesy pete said:

I am also  interested in Why  CS32? are the gardens you do huge? i'm not saying don't do the course but from my experience your climbing tickets CS38 CS39  would serve you better  than the odd few trees you are able to straight fell  of that size .

 

 

I was on the understanding that I had to do the CS32 before I could do the CS38 & CS39.......

Is this no correct?

[Stubby]

1 hour ago, AHPP said:

He didn’t but we can all improve.

I think I have it sorted .

[Marksquirrell]

Definitely incorrect. You don’t need anything to do CS38 and only need 30/31 and obviously 38 to do your CS39.

All CS32 teaches you is how to cut down a tree that’s bigger than your guide bar, I.e come in from both sides etc

With regards to the saw I’d go pro 60cc STIHL / husky. I have a 362 but would probably go husky 562 just because I prefer 3/8 chain

[Joe Newton]

59 minutes ago, Marksquirrell said:

Definitely incorrect. You don’t need anything to do CS38 and only need 30/31 and obviously 38 to do your CS39.

All CS32 teaches you is how to cut down a tree that’s bigger than your guide bar, I.e come in from both sides etc

With regards to the saw I’d go pro 60cc STIHL / husky. I have a 362 but would probably go husky 562 just because I prefer 3/8 chain

I thought the 362 came with 3/8 running gear?

 

If not it should be an easy swap

[Marksquirrell]

I thought the 362 came with 3/8 running gear?
 
If not it should be an easy swap

Sorry I meant I’d choose the 562 over the 560, I know you can swap a 560 to 3/8’s too.

[Rough Hewn]

If you've already got a 50cc saw, I don't see the point in a 60cc saw. Not much difference, only 2-4" extra bar length.
For large trees you need a 36" bar with at least 90cc.
Anything less is a waste of time, unless it's 20-30" tree then it's 461/462 30" bar.

[Marksquirrell]

At the end of the day it completely depends on the type and size of work your going to be doing. Also if your looking at doing your 38/39 you need to think about a top handle saw. Unless you’ve got oodles of cash it all takes time.

I have 160t, 200t, 362running either 15” or 18” and then 576 running either 18” or 24”. I’d like a 661 size saw but don’t currently have enough work for it as I know I can borrow from other people when necessary

[tree-fancier123]

2 hours ago, Rough Hewn said:

If you've already got a 50cc saw, I don't see the point in a 60cc saw. Not much difference, only 2-4" extra bar length.
For large trees you need a 36" bar with at least 90cc.
Anything less is a waste of time, unless it's 20-30" tree then it's 461/462 30" bar.

What he said

but if you start cutting all that lot down the saw will be the least of your worries

[stihlmadasever]

You dont need a big saw to take down big trees.

Ive used a 261 with a 16"guidebar and a 346xp with a 15" guidebar to take down trees nearly twice the guidebar size of the saw.

Cs32 will show you how to do these specific techniques.

As a gardener i doubt you'll be doing enough big trees to merit purchasing a  bigger saw.

One thing id say is get your climbing and aerial chainsaw tickets as most big trees cant be felled in a garden,not enough space to drop a big stick,thats where the climbing and sectional felling would serve you better imo