Started Washing My Chains

[Haironyourchest]

That black stuff is about half a teaspoon of metal dust and corundum from edging 6 chains on my grinder. I've been reading The Fundamentals by Bereneck, and he recommends washing chains in petrol after grinding. So I tried it in an old Aspen can, then poured the dirty petrol into another container for future use - this was left in the bottom of the can, and there was likely some still in suspension in the petrol. My plan is to keep using the same petrol, and carefully pour it back into a clean wash can each time. I always blow the chains with air compressor anyway, and this was washing before blowing, so I don't know how much the blowing removes. Will try blow then wash next time and see how much less crud results, if any.

[westphalian]

What difference does it make? Also, would you recommend the book?

[Dan Maynard]

Hmm I've read the book but didn't pick up that detail - will have to reread. I found it a good read, obviously it's quite old so some of the stuff like pruning cuts would be considered out of date but there is also a lot of good material based on his years of experience.

I'm intrigued by how much oil the petrol takes out of the chain and does this have a big negative effect - or do you dip it after anyway. I think I read in an Oregon instruction once you should soak a chain in oil before use but never actually done it.

[Mesterh]

I would be soaking them in oil after washing them in petrol.

 

Tbh seems like a complete waste of time. What is his reasoning behind washing chains in petrol?

 

 

[lurkalot]

7 hours ago, Mesterh said:

I would be soaking them in oil after washing them in petrol.

 

Tbh seems like a complete waste of time. What is his reasoning behind washing chains in petrol?

 

 

I'm assuming the reason is to remove all the metal deposits and corundum from the chain prior to use.  The dust from your grind stone and the metal deposits are obviously abrasive, mixed with a drop of chain oil and you have a nice form of grinding paste.  Yes you would need to oil soak them after doing this to give them a fighting chance.

[Haironyourchest]

Actually the petrol was old 2-stroke mix, so it had oil in anyway. I think the idea of oiling chains before use might be a relic from the days of manual oiler buttons. It sure wouldn't do any harm, but I don't bother. Just put the new chain on and rev the saw slowly till it oils then off I go. 

[Khriss]

...Hairy , ummm, shouldn't you be in the pub ...instead of washing chains ?? K

[Mesterh]

13 hours ago, lurkalot said:

I'm assuming the reason is to remove all the metal deposits and corundum from the chain prior to use.  The dust from your grind stone and the metal deposits are obviously abrasive, mixed with a drop of chain oil and you have a nice form of grinding paste.  Yes you would need to oil soak them after doing this to give them a fighting chance.

I would of thought it disappears quite quickly once the saw hits a bit of timber.

I bet if you really llooked into it ie with a microscope and studied the effects of washing a chain or just using it you would find no difference worth noting. 

 

I remember being taught to knock the burrs off the chain with the back of a wooden file handle. Never could be bothered after the greenhorn stage but I can see that logic in it.

 

Each to their own though, whatever works best for you I suppose.

[Dbikeguy]

Quick squirt of WD40 or similar would provide enough live till the stuff in the saw could circulate or to stop the rust if storing them

[Haironyourchest]

21 minutes ago, Mesterh said:

I would of thought it disappears quite quickly once the saw hits a bit of timber.

I bet if you really llooked into it ie with a microscope and studied the effects of washing a chain or just using it you would find no difference worth noting. 

 

I remember being taught to knock the burrs off the chain with the back of a wooden file handle. Never could be bothered after the greenhorn stage but I can see that logic in it.

 

Each to their own though, whatever works best for you I suppose.

Yeah we were thought that trick on the ground felling course, I tried it for a bit, can't tell if it makes a difference to the longevity of the sharp edge. I've stopped bothering. I believe the corundum dust is more of a problem for the bar than the chain, as it can lodge between the drive links and the inside walls of the guide rails, theoretically causing acellerated wear on the rails and making for a sloppy fit.