Hutzl ms660 build

[dan494]

cant be worse than a genuine 660 chainbreak, handle melts on those and dont work anyway 

[Mark Bolam]

That’s a weird one Dan.

Mine was awful, literally had to crack the top corner with my right to engage it, which is asking for trouble, but it melted/bedded in and was perfect.

Funnily enough I’m in the workshop sharpening it for an oak takedown tomorrow.

Now over 10 years old, it’s only ever had bars, chains, sprockets and fuel caps from new. It always starts second pull.

The most reliable saw I’ve ever had.

It wears a 25”, but has pulled a 36” often enough when needed.

It seeps bar oil a bit when stored base down, but that’s like saying Cameron Diaz’s tits have sagged slightly since she was 19.

[spudulike]

Some saws have no washers and some have just a nut - do what the parts list has on it.

On the subject of torqueing flywheels - a lot of the old flywheels could be really cranked down tight, especially the Stihls with steel bosses. Some modern Stihls in particular, have thin inner bosses that the crank taper will crack if tightened too much. If you do this, it will make a "ping" noise like hitting the flywheel with a small screwdriver. Failure to recognize it may cause the flywheel boss to burst which won't be pretty.

I have only done one and replaced it at my expense and just warning people.

Doing these saws probably gives the owner a bit of extra knowledge but won't make you a super tech unless you REALLY get in to it in a big way.

[Mark Wileman]

How's it going guys, update on my 372 now my new carb finally came! She fires up okay, but when I give her full revs she doesn't seem to go past a fast idle, was about to start fiddling with the carb and the fucker backfired through the carb. Now she'll fire up when I hold the gas on but she backfires and then cuts out, the flywheel key is still in position, and I have a credit card's gap between the flywheel magnet and coil, my mix is about 2 months old so I'm going to try in the morning with fresh mix before I start trouble-shooting further!

[spudulike]

Sounds like the coil is buggered if the flywheel key is intact and the flywheel and gap are OK. I tend to swerve AM coils as they are hit and miss!

It doesn't sound like this one will run as it is, not if it is backfiring. I could tell you how to measure the ignition timing but would get a virtual glaze of the eyes and send everyone to bed early!

[billpierce]

Exhaust gasket all ok?

[Mark Wileman]

3 hours ago, billpierce said:

Exhaust gasket all ok?

It's on! I guess I could try to tighten the exhaust bolts a bit and give it a go. I'm going to reset the position of the coil and then if it's still not playing find a genuine coil to stick on, the fun begins

[billpierce]

It's on! I guess I could try to tighten the exhaust bolts a bit and give it a go. I'm going to reset the position of the coil and then if it's still not playing find a genuine coil to stick on, the fun begins [emoji14]

One side hasn't slipped down? Easily done when fitting.

Go steady on those exhaust bolts mind. Easy to strip them

[Mark Wileman]

Just to elimate the carb, my H/L jets are currently a turn out (probably a bit more beacuse I was scared of going all the way in and snapping them again), so could this backfire be caused because they are to far open and therefore there is too much fuel going into the cylinder, hence still burning when the exhaust port opens and backfiring? If this is a faulty coil it should be back firing as soon as I pull the cord, but shes starting, idling roughly and not revving, then backfiring... seems to be it's a timing issue, but not a coil issue (as a dodgy coil would fail every cycle, right?). 

Edited January 13, 2018 by Mark Wileman

[EricBradley]

all miss firing is down to ignition. Nothing else as far as ive ever seen