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Freeing trapped saws..?


Sunflower27
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You don't need 2 saws, just a spare bar & chain :-)

 

You may get away with this if the saw has an inboard clutch. I've had trouble releasing a husky where there wasn't enough movement to get the chain past the drum.

 

I would still carry two saws, and do when logging, as contingency if one plays up.

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Hi do you understand where compression and tension appear in the timber you are cutting ? I don't know what saws you use but if you have ever bought a new stihl chainsaw it will come with a handbook that has some very simple pictures of how to cut timber with compression and tension. We all get saws stuck from time to time a d some more than others , we cut a fair amount of windblown spruce ,larch etc and perfect example is one lad who works with me he will get his saw stuck 2 or 3 times a day but I keep telling him use the correct sequence of cuts and you wont . and husky did do a book with some very good colour photos and diagrams in.

 

Yes, I make a decision on where I think the tension/compression is and where I think the most load sits, however sometimes the wood does something different to what logic suggests it might. I doesn't happen often as usually I can see or feel if the kerf is closing but when it does, I don't really have a good system for freeing it.

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Must admit i'm another spare bar and chain bloke. (but oppenspace makes a good point about the clutch, most of mine are all internally)

But a silky in the piece bag is also worth it too for real emergancies

 

I tend to more stick bars in tree stems if it sits back on u unexpectadly (usually throu operator error, not looking at tree enough) and too small to get wedges in or for some reason have bar at wrong side of a heavily wieghted outsider and too heavy for the wedges.

 

I u jam it snedding u can often wiggle the branch to get it out.

U could try instead of doing another 'step' type cut a more open type felling cut and take a wide open gub out of the compression side and then come in form the other side as normal.

 

The ones i do occasionally struggle with are branches going down almost vertically with a lot of weight on them.

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You may get away with this if the saw has an inboard clutch. I've had trouble releasing a husky where there wasn't enough movement to get the chain past the drum.

 

I would still carry two saws, and do when logging, as contingency if one plays up.

 

Well then you should buy proper saws! ;-)

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If you're unsure about where the tension lies in the limb - sometimes it can be hard to know, if the limb itself is under tension from something else other than gravity, ie. another limb, the ground, etc. - if thats the case try to make a series of shallow cuts all around where you want to cut the limb, to gradually release the tension and also reveal the nature of the tension. That will then give you an indicator of where to put your main cut.

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I once had to leave both saws trapped in a trunck 200yds from town overnight.

They were both still there at the crack of dawn when i returned with saw number three,but they wouldnt have been if me mates had known about it.

 

Take your spanner and just leave the bars, I'd have been sleeping under the tree if they were my saws.

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If you're getting caught out on a regular basis, then as others have said, you need to learn about compression and tension. If you already know and are still getting caught out on a regular basis, you need to go back to the drawing board.

 

If it's small stuff that catches you. A Silky will save lots of time getting you out of the pickle jar. If it's bigger stuff, then it's down to either packing spare bar & chain or another saw or other mechanical advantage or brawn & an axe. Or all of the above. Failing any of the aforementioned, you could always just give up on saws and take up knitting.

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