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560 woes


Pinkfoot
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So is the short block the best way forward Steve ? I seem to remember the Conrod and bearings separate was more or about the same to replace!

 

Yup, short block is the best option, I can't verify if the mains are OK and with the impact it took to shatter both ends, would imagine the main bearings may have taken a fair bit and then there is the debris from the piston....this way is the best IMO.

 

I guess yours is still going well - I was telling Pinkfoot about it!

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It's going well ! would like to replace the fuel lines and carb boots as it seems to possibly have an air leak as it over runs? Don't know if that's the auto tune trying to make sense of the mods as it's only occasionally doesn't it .... I guess I should ship it back to you at some point.

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Apart from the extra crank case bolt what is it mate ?

 

Clutch side now made of alluminium whilst flywheel side is still magnesium. Also improved bearing cage material in the main bearings. Heat is the biggest cause of failure for the bearings which is why a good oil is so important on these engines

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Clutch side now made of alluminium whilst flywheel side is still magnesium. Also improved bearing cage material in the main bearings. Heat is the biggest cause of failure for the bearings which is why a good oil is so important on these engines

 

Ok . Thanks for the info . Just wondering about the different coefficients of expansion between the two materials ?......

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Clutch side now made of alluminium whilst flywheel side is still magnesium. Also improved bearing cage material in the main bearings. Heat is the biggest cause of failure for the bearings which is why a good oil is so important on these engines

 

Ah Magnesium, thought so....better keep the Mapp gas off it:blushing: I had heard there were some changes to the cases, clutch, bearings etc. The muffler and exhaust port are modded on this saw so heat will be less of an issue.

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It's going well ! would like to replace the fuel lines and carb boots as it seems to possibly have an air leak as it over runs? Don't know if that's the auto tune trying to make sense of the mods as it's only occasionally doesn't it .... I guess I should ship it back to you at some point.

 

The autotune tends to sort out air leaks pretty effectively but if you look at the readout on the PC interface, the figures can tell you if the saw is compensating if you know what to look for.

 

It may well be just an issue with the autotune resetting if you use the saw in a way you don't normally - like when you do carving or snedding etc

 

Just leave it a bit if sending it in, got a fair bit floating around....think I may retire:thumbup:

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