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Husqvarna Top Handle for Carving


nbratcliffe
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You are all missing something here . You will go to prison unless you do ALL your carving off the ground . :biggrin:

 

ehhh why, what law has been broken, and as a side issue, where does it state you actually need any qualifications, paper or other, to carry out chainsaw carviing,its like chainsaw milling, nowhere in any H&S documentation is it covered

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ehhh why, what law has been broken, and as a side issue, where does it state you actually need any qualifications, paper or other, to carry out chainsaw carviing,its like chainsaw milling, nowhere in any H&S documentation is it covered

 

The law of common sense! Oh, sorry, scrap that. H&S took over! :001_rolleyes:

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ehhh why, what law has been broken, and as a side issue, where does it state you actually need any qualifications, paper or other, to carry out chainsaw carviing,its like chainsaw milling, nowhere in any H&S documentation is it covered

 

I am of the same opinion as you . It was a failed attempt at mirth ......:001_smile:

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I am looking to convert a Husqvarna Top Handle saw for carving, I have had a go at converting the T435 over to a 1/4" drive sprocket - with no success. So I have the following questions...

 

1. Does anyone know if it is possible to convert the new T540XP over to 1/4"?

Does not exist to my knowledge.

 

2. Does anyone know where I can get a 334t, 335, 335XPT or 336 (Oregon makes a 1/4" kit for these)?

Oregon says they do but don't they need a worm pinion or similar? I think you can get 1/4 but would be genuine Husky.

 

3. Does anyone know if you can convert the new T536Li/if it's any good?

We have 1/4 drive sprocket for this saw - but someone said because there is no back plate on the side cover they had some oil leakage... pretty much all carving bars are universal mount so you need a cover plate to cover the holes that are not used by that particular saw.

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Nick.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

 

As above!

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  • 2 weeks later...

i used an makita dcs230t with a tiny .43 10" sugi bar for a good while. thought it would do my wrists in carving with topper, but its all so light and manouvarable its was great and very handy. wouldnt replace a 14'' .50 carving bar however.

 

obvs i was roped in whenever i did this.

 

now on with an echo 270wes, which is fine.

 

if it will be your only carving saw, get a back handle.

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Top handle doesn't give you the control for carving, not a safe option unless you have the wrist strength of Kong and the skin of Godzilla. Rear handle give you the grip n control.

Yeah, honestly it was totally fine with wee detail carving saw, plus pretty impossible to get a carving bar to kickback.

 

Best not to carve onehanded, though if you could do 2 carvings at a time with two toppers you'd make a fortune at shows.

 

Sent from my C6603 using Arbtalk mobile app

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