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Problems cutting with the Stihl 1/4 pitch chain


Steve Bullman
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It''s not you Steve !

 

Even when new, the tolerance between the drive links and the bar groove sides are enough to allow the chain to lean to the right or to the left in relation to the bar in certain cutting situations.

 

Cutting at 90 degrees to the timber in a GOOD ergonomic work position and this will not happen, as the tie straps on either side of the chain are pressed down on top of the bar rails as you cut. Similarly cutting at other angles to the timber in a GOOD ergonomic work position and this will not happen

 

Cutting at different angles to the timber in a POOR ergonomic work position and the chain can lift off the rails on one side when in the kerf, resulting in the cutting angle geometry altering hence the issues you have been experiencing.

 

At reach, awkward positions etc. the pressure exerted on the bar is often not exactly following the line of the initial start of the cut and the chain is lifting one side off the rails as the cut progresses, leading to a curved cut / chain binding.

 

The smaller the pitch of the chain, the greater the level of risk of this anomaly occuring.

 

Smaller pitches have many advantages as we all realise, but there are also negatives.

 

I hope this helps. :001_smile:

 

Reckon this is the answer above:thumbup1: I have the Stihl 150 cutting gear (10'' stihl chain and bar, 0.43) on my tiny Echo CS 2511 and get this sometimes.

 

These tiny chains can't take too much stick compared to the heavier 0.50 gauge.

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May be a combination of factors that cause this - it is a fiddly chain to sharpen well but the cleaness of cut can't be doubted.... suppose it is all about compromise.

 

We have the GB mini bars that run this chain - seem thicker and better built than the Stihl bars and are cheaper if you want to try an alternative. Sold a few of these little GB bars but not had all that much feedback on them.

 

It's a little bit annoying how they take 58 drive links not 56. You can also run these on the Echo 2511TES (and they take 59 drive links in that case).

 

Chainsawbars selector for chainsaw guide bars, chains and sprockets

 

 

:001_smile:

Capture1.jpg.5ebf2d25323a4b3ab50b2b4016cc403e.jpg

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I tried a 150 for the first time today, as the chain brake mountings on my t540 have snapped (though it's never been dropped, chucked or dumped, and has been faultless apart from the spark plug coming loose on occasion) and has to have replacement crank casing [emoji45].

What a fantastic little saw apart from initially having issues as described by Steve etc ( having coincidentally read this thread earlier ), this was rectified by ensuring a good ergonomic position for every cut, although the saw jammed up a couple of times after this I just cleaned up under side casing and all went well again and if it hadn't been for losin only key to the (borrowed Surf) in the river Waveney I'd be ordering one tonight[emoji849]

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk

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May be a combination of factors that cause this - it is a fiddly chain to sharpen well but the cleaness of cut can't be doubted.... suppose it is all about compromise.

 

We have the GB mini bars that run this chain - seem thicker and better built than the Stihl bars and are cheaper if you want to try an alternative. Sold a few of these little GB bars but not had all that much feedback on them.

 

It's a little bit annoying how they take 58 drive links not 56. You can also run these on the Echo 2511TES (and they take 59 drive links in that case).

 

Chainsawbars selector for chainsaw guide bars, chains and sprockets

 

 

:001_smile:

 

Sorry for going off on a tangent, I know it was posted elsewhere....does the stihl bar fit on the echo?

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Sorry for going off on a tangent, I know it was posted elsewhere....does the stihl bar fit on the echo?

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It does but you need an extra drive link in the chain.

 

sugihara make a bar that also fits so I've been told.

 

 

They do, but only their chain fits the bar. The chain seems more robust. The kerf isn't as narrow but I haven't noticed any of these issues with it.

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Yep it has got pretty complicated with the 1/4 .043 chain in summary:

 

MS150T:

 

  • Stihl 10" 3005 008 3403 (56 drive links) and runs the Stihl 3670 1/4 .043 chain.
  • GB 10" fits (58 drive links) and runs the Stihl 3670 1/4 .043 chain.

No Sugihara bar or chain will work with this saw - Sugihara A4S chain does not go round either the drive sprocket of the MS150T or the nose sprocket of the Stihl bar or GB bar.

 

 

Echo 2511TES:

 

  • Stihl 10" 3005 008 3403 fits (57 drive links of Stihl 3670 chain only)
  • GB 10" fits (59 drive links Stihl 3670 chain only)
  • Sugihara 10" (60 drive links of Sugihara A4S chain only - although we may have another chain shortly that works on this bar)

 

 

As for what's the best combo? - similar answer to which is best saw Stihl or Husky or how many sugars make a cup of tea the best cup of tea ;)

 

 

 

 

The Stihl chain cuts smoother and cleaner than the Sugi chain which cuts more aggresively and bounces a little more in the cut. But does not seem to suffer from bar wander - probably because it takes a little wider kerf... but that's a guess!

 

 

 

 

:001_smile:

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