Are wood burners getting smaller!!!

[openspaceman]

The external air kit for mine is connected to the underside of the stove then an 80mm pipe goes out the bottom of that through the hearth in to the cellar below. It's fixed to the underside of the floor joists and then goes out through the external wall so it's drawing air directly from outside, not from in the cellar.

 

That's room sealed, is the kit an extra? What make?

[Ashes_Firewood]

That's room sealed, is the kit an extra? What make?

 

Clearview. Yeah it's an extra.

[cornish wood burner]

What's the deal with drawing air from under a floating wooden floor?.... where's the benefit in doing that?

cheers, steve

We have a small radon problem here so any extra air drawn from under the floor should be an advantage. Basement air would be replenished by the many air vents already installed. It also saves going through an outside wall, so no cosmetic finishing needed.

Considering the radon a direct air kit would be a must in our case otherwise a plain vent to the basement could allow radon to enter the room.

[openspaceman]

We have a small radon problem here so any extra air drawn from under the floor should be an advantage.

Considering the radon a direct air kit would be a must in our case otherwise a plain vent to the basement could allow radon to enter the room.

 

So are you going for a room sealed kit to draw the air from under the floor and vent any radon through the fire?

 

This house leaks like a sieve and all the suspended floors were replaced with solid before we moved here so if we ever made it more airtight with double glazing and insulation I'd have a problem getting a direct air supply.

[GWYNFIL]

Sorry been away five pages wow!

 

Personally i think a house needs to breath. The pmsl was my take on some of the issues with regs. No two houses are the same so seek advice. I see new houses and some older that have been upgraded suffering from extensive mold etc. Due to levels of insulation /air tightness and then try and manage this with ventilation. We have gone soft how many times have you come in from working and moaned at the misses that its to warm.

 

I was just trying to put an answer to op ,s post

 

mike

[cornish wood burner]

So are you going for a room sealed kit to draw the air from under the floor and vent any radon through the fire?

 

This house leaks like a sieve and all the suspended floors were replaced with solid before we moved here so if we ever made it more airtight with double glazing and insulation I'd have a problem getting a direct air supply.

 

Yes. That's the plan. I expect the hardest bit will be core drilling through the chimney base to meet the fire air supply.

Our radon reading was bordering on action needed, so I've already fitted a couple of sumps vented to outside.

The fire air supply would just be an extra to the measures in place, and some compensation for losing the ventilation from the open fire, unless anyone knows a reason against doing it.

[Steven P]

Reading this reminded me about all I read when I got my stove - I'm no expert, I got a stove fitted and don't ecpect to replace it for about 10 years. I might put in a small wood burner in the bedroom, the thought of a canal boat wood burner sounds good (existing bedroom fireplace is only 12" accross, 8" frontto back!)

 

So what have I learnt - well MY 5kw stove takes logs from my elbow to my wrist in length - cannot always take a tape measure out when collecting wood but I do hope to have my arms for a while longer. I never really noticed large differences in fireboxes when looking - though I do now I am temped by a small stove upstairs. I've no idea if this is smaller or larger than what they used to be.Certainly smaller than is it was jusr an open fire place.

 

Air supply - As far as I remember the 5kw - go over this size and the stove needs more air than the average leaky house can supply without adding extra vents. So the stove burns ineficiently and can produce Carbon Monoxide in the room (hence the requirement that a CO detector is also to be fitted). Typically this is to add a vent brick to the specified size in the room. This has never sounded quite right to me - I want to heat my room so I knock a hole in the outside wall? If you can I would put a direct pipe to outside. My fireplace has an 8" pipe under it leading to the underfloor space - which is unusual, similar idea to the photo above

 

Then damp - loved the description of house draft oproofing and dampness - sounds about right. I assumed when I got this house that it was designed somewhere or other, or used lots of experience in the design - 5 buildiers didn't just get a load of bricks and just make it. So all the vents are meant to be there i reckon. Windows and floors can be sealed better - they were never meant to leak air. The open fires were a part of this design - we have no extracoter fans, in the summer the windows open for ventelation, in the winter tha fire is on drawing air from the house to send up the chimney.. drawing moist air from the house to send it up the chimney to be replaced by drier outside air. So the fire keeps the house dry in the winter - in fact in the summer I will often put in a small fire to change the air about.