Muddy42

Very true, luckily often thick line wont fit in the tap-n-go heads . I spent years p1ssing around trying to get underpowered strimmers to cut knee high grass - thicker string and blades. its slow, frustrating for the operator and not good for the machine whatever thickness line you use. I think electric strimmers or <30 cc (that nearly everyone seems to have) are fine for neatening up the whiskers on the edge of a lawn but for 'long grass' that only gets cut once, twice or thrice a year - you need 45cc or above and thick string. Same for brambles and weeds.

me too. I start off on the top two slots but if the line jams, I use the bottom pair as backup. I have some non desert extrusions 3.9mm string too. But it doesn't come close in terms of durability, you have to try this stuff.

I think I followed your recommendation. Epic combination that obliterates grass and brambles. Occasionally one of the two strings gets jammed or the stub gets too short to extract, but the beauty of the four string head is you can carry on by using the spare slots. Its easy to strip, grease and replace pawls and springs, if like me you lent it someone with a ham fist.

Old raspberry cane wire, a dog's gravestone, markers for the water main, brass bedstead, lots of treestumps, buckets - I've hit the lot!

I find over time blades cause a lot more mechanical wear and damage than string. Eventually you will hit something or something goes off centre, extra vibrations, more damage to machine, even with a big strimmer. The tri blades are a bit worse for this than the circular blades, Seriously consider an oregon jet fit head and some 4mm square Diamond Edge line. With my husky 555rxt, this cuts as well as a blade and lasts for ages. If you think about it the give provided by a string does a similar thing to a clutch. String is cheaper to replace than mechanical parts!

hi there. I'm reviving a 15 year old thread to show I can use the search function but also because this is happening to me on a few stihl chainsaws. The common factor is I'm using Rotatech Premium Bar oil and Stihl chains in all the saws. - Stihl 088 with 25 and 36 inch Rollomatic ES bars .404 .063 - Stihl MS460 with 20 inch rollomatic bar 3/8 - Also to a certain extent in the MS261, but it has a short 16 inch bar The 460 has had oiling problems in the past (solved by suggestions here) but I'm pretty sure these are fixed. I replaced the pump, worm drive and cleaned out the lines and bar oil tank. Oil pump screws turned to max. The saw gets through nearly as much as oil as fuel. It doesn't appear to have any leaks, but oiling is just poor. I can't get oil to flick off the end of the bar. Unless the bar groove and oiling hole is kept scrupulously clean, the nose sprocket seems to jam up with dust and heat. I can get it going again with WD40 and brute force in the workshop, but I worry about doing some damage. I don't do plunge cuts and this is not in extreme temperatures. Has anyone had this happen with rotatech oil? Should I thin the oil or try a thinner bar oil? Any suggestions gratefully received.

If the plants are going free and they are nice and old, maybe take one and make a bonsai tree? they are excellent for that.

Seriously don't plant or transplant box hedges - caterpillars or blight are all over the UK. It doesn't matter if you don't have neighbours. You will end up with blight, its inevitable. Then you can go down the stressful route of hand- cutting, spraying, fertilizing and you still end up with blight. Its not worth the effort. Viable alternatives are: Ilex Crenata, Japanese box leaved holly. Taxus Baccata, Yew. Euonymus Japonicus, evergreen spindle. Teucrium x Lucidrys

its bank of england data. Like it or not, the PRS sector has shrunk. Has the private rental sector been shrinking? WWW.BANKOFENGLAND.CO.UK The purpose of Bank Overground is to share our internal analysis. Each...

various stats UK’s rental market shrinks by 400,000 homes in just seven years WWW.PROPERTY118.COM The UK's private rented sector (PRS) has seen a significant decline in the number of homes to rent since 2016, one leading real estate advising firm reveals. According to CBRE, it...

Yes, thats another variation on ‘sell’ and it does happen that low value rural properties get left vacant or demolished. A farmer near me just demolished an old wreck with his digger to avoid paying the council tax. Not all have mortgages or the mortgage is on the whole farm. Sorry its hard to generalise with housing.

Sold to another mug landlord, sold to second home owners, airbnb, demolished, left vacant even. In remote rural areas sometimes the cost to fix up and meet various energy and compliance regs makes no sense compared to low rents or pay the mortgage. Construction and labour costs have rocketed in recent years.

Be careful what you wish for. Landlords aren't stupid, if you make the law too tenant friendly, introduce rent controls or keep yoyoing between policies, the supply of rental housing just dries up and landlords either sell or holiday lets. These sound like great vote winning policies but achieve completely the opposite outcome of what was intended. Something like this happened in the 60s,70s,80s and history is probably repeating itself now. A functioning private rental market requires a clear and fair lease and some certainty that things won't be meddled with by each successive government.

READ THE LEASE, in particular the landlords ability to end the lease early, it probably lists sale as a trigger. But this would be exactly that, ending the lease, probably having given at least two months advance notice of the new lease end date. I'm not clear what date the landlord proposed as a new end date? You shouldn't have to pay rent beyond this date. Likewise if you are still paying for the property, its yours to occupy or leave empty, the landlord cannot get new tenants in.

I doubt the police would give you a straight answer to that - effectively your asking the police how long you have to be on best behaviour, if you get caught with drugs or guns in your car. I appreciate this was under previous ownership. Naturally make sure all your paperwork is up-to-date, your car is legal (tyres, number plate etc.) and drive on your best behaviour.

@Hobbylogger as previously stated a reciprocating saw would be better for chopping pallets. If you must buy a chainsaw buy this saw new for £150 and forget old massive saws with un obtainable parts: STIHL MS162 12" Petrol Chainsaw WWW.WORLDOFPOWER.CO.UK Stihl MS162 Chain Saw 12" Built to replace the infamous Stihl MS170, the MS162...

Go on then, make the OP an offer! Seriously they did say they are a bit green to big old saws, I'm not sure I'd recommend something as obscure with a manual oiler where parts are rocking horse poo. Stihl 660, 880 or husky equivalents maybe.

I agree using a metal blade on a brushcutter is tough on the user and machine. I don't think you can get away from that whatever brand you use. However careful I am, I always end up jarring or pinching the blade, which must send shock waves up the shaft. Plus eventually something goes off centre and you get vibrations. What about a powerful flail on a digger? Bulldozer? or the auzzies tow a chain between two bulldozers? Don't goats eat thorns? fire?

Pay whatever is asked for it, then sell it on ebay and buy a stihl/jusky. Parts are rare for a start.

thanks for all the help. I've been offered a small caravan base for free. I'll try and build a base for it.

All logs contain a percentage of water as they dry. So an IBC of logs contains water, wood and air gaps. Wood and air are lighter than water, meaning an IBC of logs must be lighter than one containing water, assuming both filled to the brim. You can dispute the percentage water of a log and the amount of air gaps, but it doesn't make any difference to this.

The manitou is rubbish off road, that's why I need the quad trailer.

Thanks, but I don't think I will. I hate overloading quads (I think its really bad for them) and the distance isn't huge. I have hard standing for where the IBCs will sit, this trailer would be needed for woodland - I don't want tracks all over it and it would be impossible to predict where the next storm damage will hit anyway.

Cheers, that picture is helpful, I can make that with the welder. Water would be heavier and less stable than logs.

I have just got hold of 25 IBC cages to reduce the number of times I handle logs. The idea being the logs get cut and loaded into the cage only once, they season in the cages and get unloaded straight into the log box or fire. The cages work great on the Manitou, the problem is I have some areas of woodland where the Manitou would get stuck. However I have a big 4 wheel drive quad with decent mud tyres that would be fine. I already know it can tow the same weight of logs in a trailer - but if I do this, it involves double/triple handling! I would like to drive the quad into the woods with an empty cage on the trailer and unload it full on my return. BUT the quad trailer is one of those smaller agricultural boxes that is just too narrow by a few inches. I was thinking of buying an beaten up 6x4 trailer and adapting/welding it to be a flat bed. It would be best to have to load as low as possible between the wheels, to reduce how much the logs need to be lifted in. If required, I could move the axle stubs outwards. the trailer would not need to be legal for public roads, just off road. Has anyone else done something similar? Any tips, gratefully received. Thanks