Muddy42
-
Posts
818 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Calendar
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by Muddy42
-
Does anyone know where I can order new springs for these, the internal ones that are accessible once you dismantle the head, that hold the pawls tight to the line. Somehow I managed to destroy a spring. I suspect 4mm square flexiblade line is actually on the limit of what these can handle as I have had a few blockages. Works great otherwise. Nothing on Google. Thanks.
-
I think I'll just leave the plug in for now as it starts easily enough without the decomp valve.
-
I don't really have a favourite firewood. Its all gets seasoned so long its virtually unrecognizable and dry enough that the stove or biomass will burn whatever you feed it with.
-
So is it working now? I service my old oil AGA every year. The flue needs very little cleaning but its amazing the effect a fine film of soot can have on reducing the draught and making a smell in the kitchen. A variety of brush are needed for the thinner pipes near the boiler. Other than that its simply a case of cleaning the filter at the tank end, making sure oil is flowing and all the carbon is removed. You can get various nest removal tools for regular 3/4 inch screw-in chimney rod sets.
-
Thanks. Definitely used a fair bit. Thanks. Its really hard to tell. I'm leaning slightly towards it leaking at the thread than the valve, but the whole thing was covered in oily soot. I'm going to clean it up and try again. I get that the valve might leak a bit if used, maybe i'll see if it still leaks when I don't use the valve.
-
This is on a one year old Husqvarna brushcutter 555rxt that has been used a lot. I was doing some routine maintenance after it became a bit harder to start. I have replaced the decomp valve with a plug to see if that makes a difference. I appreciate that you get some oil on the decomp valve but this seems excessive?
-
Boiled Linseed Oil? If you want you could apply two coats and the first would be thinned with turps for better penetration. Heating the BLO slightly helps. You could also patch the two holes with square pieces of wood that were the same width as each plank but half the depth. Cut out square recesses to take the patches with a chisel or a router, essentially a type of "dutchman repair." If you wanted to get really pro you could make a round tabletop from a piece of board and a router.
-
Agreed. If you cut, split and stack the wood in an open sunny area, before the sap rises then you can get the moisture level below 20% by the end of summer. Sorry for going on about big sheds, 2 years and mechanisation, that just makes life so much easier.
-
That's related to the big Scandinavian debate - do you stack split wood 'bark up or bark down'? Bark might keep water off, but also might trap in water? Maybe you can get the best of both worlds - bark down for a few months then, turn the top row over in September? All very nice and quaint, but once you need a volume beyond a few trailer loads, its all about saving effort and minimising the handling times. That means stacking in a big open sided shed and as much mechanization as possible - splitter, a few IBC cages and a small tractor/loader etc.
-
Sorry what do you mean by a pump? Something like a mityvac that tests vac and pressure with the same setup is ideal. I agree about avoiding chinese carbs. Also have you considered using the worst saws as donors? It depends what price you got them for and how far you want to go, but ordering new parts can soon get expensive. Maybe once you have pressure tested the crankcases, you could salvage parts from the ones that fail or have issues with the cranks. Rebuilding crankcases requires special tools and a fair degree of skill to do right.
-
Yes you can do this if its split to stove sized pieces and stack well, ideally for two years rather than one. But why not use tin or tarps to keep the rain off?
-
Sorry to be contrarian, but you can either wait and the shed gets further crushed and wet or act now and at least get a tarpaulin over the shed. If you have the equipment, are qualified and are 100% confident you can clear up the tree safely, I'd just go for it. Getting the council to do anything or give you money or a court case would be stressful, expensive, time consuming and probably fruitless.
-
Stihl motomix is made with Stihl HP Ultra. Please make your own mind up rather than re-hashing old discussions, but there have been some people querying the quality of this oil Another factor that may be important to you, is that I find that the 5 Litre Aspen bottles pour much better than the 5L Stihl Motomix ones. With Aspen I barely need a funnel, with Motomix I make a mess even with a funnel. You can buy a flexible screw in spout, but rather like phone chargers or Tesla chargers (for the record I wouldn't be seen dead in a Tesla!) they are incompatible.
-
Its each to their own I guess. I hand file only so if I hit a stone with a new chain and I've got 30 minutes of filling to do. Maybe then a test cut to see it cuts straight and the rakers are set right. All of this barely matters for an old stump chain - basic sharpen and go. If it looses too many teeth then bin it. I'm basically using old chains as a quick small grinder for small stumps, cutting vertical slots, cutting off diagonal sections.
-
Cut the stump as low as possible with a chainsaw and an old chain, then grind the stump below ground level and cover with soil and reseed. There are no short cuts here, aside from matching the size of the grinder to the size of the job, grinding a big stump with a small grinder can take hours. Holy suckers will die with one or two applications of glyphosate. I've just done exactly this over the past few weeks.
-
Just bin the spark arrester or drill it out. I've adapted, fixed, or changed a few exhausts and the engines run fine afterwards. If you are worried about the engine running differently, check the tuning.
-
I've also had some suckers. I suspect the rootstocks are from older more wilder versions of the fruiting tree above ground, cherry grafted onto a type of wild cherry for example. More specifically, rootstocks are chosen for their vigour - dwarf/slow growing to vigorous/massive. Personally I think dwarf trees look silly and would rather have vigorous growth. Yes you may have to prune more but you get more fruit quicker and can prune, shape and deal with diseased bits.
-
Have you tried putting a drop of mixed fuel in the spark plug hole rather than the inlet on the carb side? As others have said a massive air leak can stop the fuel being transferred. With an older saw, you should pressure and vac test before spending proper money. Although often confused, a pressure test is NOT the same as a compression test.
-
Isn’t it meant to be clear or only slightly yellow? This looks like morning urine!
-
How bad is it? I've never done this, but I've heard of people butchering a new spark plug to make a tap to clean out and restore the threads. Basically you cut grooves at right angles to the thread. I've done this successfully with a normal bolt and threads, but never to an engine.
-
Roughly what is your % big tree VS small tree/hedges
Muddy42 replied to Excels1or's topic in General chat
can you be more specific about this - aches and sprains from using heavy petrol strimmers? Thanks, -
This E5 petrol was bought from a busy fuel station 13 days ago and stored indoors away from sunlight in a plastic 5l petrol can. What do you think of the colour? I guess it could be a dye or some varnish from the petrol can? It doesn't smell off.
-
The range of price for a bag of logs is extraordinary isn't it. £20 to the equivalent of a couple of hundred for those small bags on the fuel station forecourt!
