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Grassyass

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Everything posted by Grassyass

  1. I have this same engine on another as mower , it is the most erratic engine I’ve ever know , since brand new been a pain . They are two stroke but won’t run right on standard mix , it needs there own two stroke oil, if you run it on 100-1 seems to run better, I think it comes down to the jets in the carb being very small , the carb always blocks , spent more time in the ultra sonic cleaner than on the mower, I had all the set up info from the manual sent from the dealer , if your struggling I could see if I can find it,
  2. I agree with the other comments we are pro users after three or four hard seasons all the drive components are trashed,decks and engines all ways out last gearboxes,most engines on pro mowers are good theses day if looked after ,
  3. I have seen a few of Es light bars like this ,they have a smaller oil hole than the old bars ,I know people have drilled them out to cure it , are you running synthetic chain oil
  4. If it turns over but won’t start probably the carb will need cleaning , will it fire off easy start
  5. I had a similar problem on mine ,turned out to be the solenoid valve ,not help by the plug attached to it,so worth checking no water has got in that connector ,
  6. I’ve got the 50ltr Sgs had it about three years with no issues, good customer service if you ring them , they send them with the euro coupling that was the only pain swapping over the old ones
  7. Yes that’s it.so it would be ok in the workshop
  8. We have just got the new ap500 battery’s last twice as long as the 300,the al300-4 charger pointless holds 4 battery’s but only charges one at a time and only at the speed of the al 300 so not as fast as the quick charger,
  9. We have the Jameson , and the silky hayate,and the bahco,the Jameson are hard work to use in tight spaces and a bit of a pain adding pole and having to take them off, but well made, the bahco good value for money ,
  10. Yes your right I saw the circlip on the parts diagram ,
  11. We are currently using the 3 point mulch blade(4mm) and yesterday broke the clutch housing on a stihl fs460 ,we have used lots of stihl blades over the years and never had this problem , you can see the strimmer shaft flex if you hit a solid object with the Oregon blade ,
  12. The km94 has plenty enough power ,as other people have said the needle bearing in the gear head will give up first, the battery machines have loads of power for cutting ,but the hla85 tend to break the motor before the gears, they are by far the best long reach ,I wouldn’t go back to petrol
  13. We have had lots of stihl 4 mix kombi units never had any problems with them ,over the past 10 years , always used the super green oil, and adjusted the valves every year, got a couple of the km94 kombi units they never ran right , from new , so went back to the km131, now on the cordless km135 , great for hedges , but eat the battery when strimming ,
  14. We have the silky hayate 7.7 m,and Jameson sectional poles , but in my experience once you go north of 6m they get hard to control ,if you’re only be using it once ,we had the stallion 6.3 from f.r jones ,a third of the cost and dose a job ,

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