Paddy1000111

I wish I knew who this member was because the continuous manhunt for him is quite funny 😂

Hopefully I get extra marks for effort here... Here's a photo of the handle mechanism. It's really basic and nothing to be afraid of. At the front there's the little white part, you can see how the orange trigger has a little catch on the front that mates with it, that's what holds the trigger at half choke. If the white bit is worn or the trigger it won't hold. The above shows it in the run position with the white bit (the switch) disengaged from the trigger If you work out which bit is worn out then: Trigger is- 1129 180 1500 White rotary switch is- 1129 180 0900 You may just find there's junk in there. You can clean it out and lubricate it with some grease, the manual suggests the stihl multipurpose grease 0781 120 1109 but anything similar works.

We discussed this issue in a previous post about this tree. I have asthma and hayfever and I personally don't find trees a trigger. I think this tulip is being unfairly blamed for allergies when it's more likely that a birch, beech or pine is the cause. I've found my trigger is rapeseed, all the farmers round me grow it and if I walk down a lane I will be crying at the other end! I think the fact you can see the pollen from this tree more than the airborne pollen from other trees as the pollen is big and sticky is giving it a bad rep...

So I have seen some really nice trees in a council owned park, there's never anyone near them or kids running around as they're on a long drive to a council car park. They overlook the sea and are probably ~65ft so I thought they would be good fun to rec climb and play around with new techniques. Assuming I do no damage to the tree (cambium savers bla bla bla) is there any reason why I can't rec climb them? I did try and contact the council twice but just get the usual "We're very busy, we will contact you in 7-14 working years stuff and they have better things to do anyway. Anyone ever gone for a rec climb and had issues?

I think you're in for a real fight to get the tree removed. From my experience with TPO's which is limited at best they have only removed actually dangerous trees, i.e. ones that have physical evidence of danger like the ground shifting where roots are lifting or severe damage to the trunk. They are, however, usually much more receptive to a crown reduction/pruning plan created by a certificated arborist. This would reduce the amount of pollen released (although we have discussed before how the pollen from a tulip is extremely large and sticky and is actually suggested to people with allergens as its one of few trees that produces a pollen that's extremely low on the allergen scale) and also reduce the windage so it's less likely to come down on your house. You have to remember that there are millions of extremely tall and large trees in the UK, just because they are tall doesn't mean that they will fall over next gust of breeze.

I hate my V50 so I will happily sacrifice that for the greater good 😂

That's the trouble with arduino. You start with making something that turns a light on and off and end up with a AI beer opener...

Also do what Will says, I don't know how I didn't think of that... It does sound like it sucked in air and after being parked up the air has settled at the highest point

Only way is to get rid of that air lock, fire it over and make sure it comes out. I think you've ended up with an airlock up in the pump head somewhere and you need a bit of flow to get it shifted. The lifter pump is obviously pushing fuel into the HP pump, compressing whatever air bubble is up there and then backflowing when it's no longer pumping as the bubble is giving back pressure hence why that filter is filling and then pushing back into the tank. If you take off the end of the rubber hose and pump fuel into a container so you can stick it back into the tank after then you can confirm everything is working properly, it may take up to 5L or so to get all the air out. once its at that point then hook that line back up and with a hose on the pump bleed point open it right up and get a good flow of fuel out instead of a little trickle/drip. They can be a little like bleeding brakes sometimes, you need good flow or the fluid moves around the air instead of taking it with it. If you have no air in the HP pump or the fuel lines and it was that arm that was stuck you wouldn't be having this massive air bubble in the clear filter that comes and goes depending on if the lifter pump is running as the system would be hydrolocked which is what you want. If you are getting good flow out of that nipple and still no fuel at the injectors you can leave the low pressure pump running (ignition on) and crack off all the injector lines and turn it over in quick bursts, it's rare but I have had to do it before to get a big air pocket out if the whole pump is dry. The real question is how the air got in there in the first place. You could be right and the pump head is knackered and that's what's causing the air to get in etc and this all could be treating symptoms not causes but even a weak pump should get fuel to the cracked off injector lines which you said you haven't got

I cant remember these pumps perfectly as it's been a while but I'm pretty sure the fuel px pushes it towards the solenoid and the solenoid pushes it back again on shutdown. From memory the solenoid is out and then pulled in by 12v. When it loses 12v it comes back out again into shutdown position

Well there's your air lock... If you take off the fuel hose where it connects to the pump housing and lift it up and stick a jerry can on it then flick the ignition on and pump a tonne of fuel through. Get rid of that massive air bubble in the filter because that really shouldn't be there, there's always a little bubble but it shouldn't be like that. Connect the hose back up and turn the ignition on and bleed the pump through the nipple. Stick a hose on that nipple and again, bleed the living shite out of it. Then crack the injector hoses one by one and fire it over until you get all that air out

Could also draw a fine line on the filter where the air bubble is and turn it on so the pump runs. If the line is blocked that mahooosive bubble in there will get bigger

I mean, it's there? There's not much more you can say about that!

Well, if it's not coming out then just leave it. They usually have a couple of bubbles in but that looked like it had a lot of air in and I was curious as to if the sonic welded but was sucking in air at the top more than anything. I wouldn't blow lines through as all you're doing is adding air. Assuming your electric lift pump is working then that should bleed the lines up to the pump housing. Have you tried to start it without the fuel solenoid fitted?

I would get that air out the pre-filter just because it's going to drag it in eventually. You could put it upright and disconnect the hose from the electric pump and flick the ignition on to prime it, it will also check that the electric pump is working properly at the same time. There's a low pressure electric diaphragm pump post the pre-filter (silver filter looking thing with wires coming out of it) then the injector pump is mechanical. The mechanical pump is low volume, high pressure and air bubbles make it s*** itself. If you have air in the line between the pump and the injectors then the injectors don't pop-off and hence you get no start or missing on one cylinder

No harm in a quick continuity check as the PCU can shut off the fuel with a temp switch fault

It does sound like an air lock. Have you got the air out of the lines completely yet? Is the filter now full? I know you have fuel coming out of the bleed screw but that doesn't mean that the pump head is full, especially if you have air in the injector lines

Shouldn't have to crack injectors unless the system is completely dry. Even then with enough turning over they self bleed usually.

If you're having cold start issues too then this all looks like air in the fuel system. Make sure all the connections are tight, hold that fuel filter upright so the air can come out, bleed the system again and if it's still an issue it will either be a rubber hose or a crack in the fuel system somewhere.

Do you have cold starting issues? If you don't then that rules out air getting into the fuel system or other fuel system related problems in my mind. You usually get a cold start issue when you have a fuel system air leak as it has to drag through fuel. How long do you have to leave it for the hot start issue? If you turn it off and leave it for 2 minutes or so is the problem there or is it after a certain period of time? Hot start is usually compression and even sometimes the injector pump. If the pump is getting dodgy it can lose pressure when hot as hot diesel is thin and can make the difference on a leaky pump. Other option is like swinny says, sticky stop solenoid. Fault finding wise I would check compression cold and hot, Check the injection line pressure cold and hot (~1991psi) The H-BOX PCU controller may be getting a little funny. It's obviously a little lost as it's leaving the glow plug light on. According to the wiring diagram there's no glow plug controller, they're wired directly to the ignition and the PCU gets an input from the key to say it's in the glow plug position and the light comes on then I assume a timer circuit just turns it off as there's no real inputs to the pcu and it has no actual control of the glow plugs. It does however control the stop solenoid etc. You could buy a can of freezer spray, I use it a lot for fault isolation. Spray the PCU until it's icy on a hot start and see if it starts better. You could also use this spray on the fuel stop solenoid to make it cold and see if it cures the issue when hot. If the PCU is being a tit then it might not be disengaging the fuel stop solenoid. I don't think the problem is glow plug related though as you don't need plugs on a hot start.

What oil are you running? Fully synthetic burns better so doesn't leave so much junk. Have you always had the saw? Someone could have put chain oil in the fuel tank, tipped it out, fuelled it up and just run with it. Once you have a carbon buildup more carbon sticks to it!

Does someone offer a training course in "fence climbing". I would imagine it's a required qualification for house burglars and pursuing cops so it must exist 😂 Just goes to show though. I've never put in a claim for an injury at work. My friends have had car crashes before and their "Friends" that were in the car at the time put in injury/whiplash claims behind their back though. Its amazing how people change when they get a little whiff of cash.

I didn't want to start a massive argument about insurance on that other thread. My only real point was if you're going to be using freelance contractors then ask your insurance company if they are covered. I wasn't saying hard facts that no-one was covered or everyone was, insurance companies are a rule to themselves and as you posted up in your first post they can set their own standards as to what they call freelance/employee/sub-contractor and they can also specify how big the trees are you're covered to cut and how many employees they will cover etc. You are at the end of the day paying good money to be covered, they can spare 5 minutes of their time to reply to an email with black or white answers which you can then save and keep for future if needed! Maybe I am being an idiot (High chances of this) but the email they replied to... You said in your original post that "Sub contractors need their own insurance" Then in their email they said "They are a labour only subcontractor". I would have expected them to say "Under your policy these workers would be classed as employees and covered as per your insurance agreement" but I don't want to nit-pick? Insurers babbling like that P*** me off.

That's what I suspect. If it was a fuel pipe or crankcase issue then it wouldn't start at all after the carb rebuild as won't prime. Have you tried having the tank half empty and when it cuts out just undoing the fuel tank cap to see if there's a hiss and then put it back on and try to start? If you have a full tank it wont take long for it to pull a vacuum and cut out compared with a half filled one

I'm in no doubt that it would invalidate your insurance! As I have no experience of ARB insurance claims 🤞 I was just curious if anyone had their insurance invalidated or had issues from ported saws. It's not worth the risk like you say!