PhillH

No need to get the lump hammer on it, just enough for the torx to dig in and grip.

Hi, bit brutal but try knocking a “old” torx bit in. Something slightly bigger than the Allan key. The shock usually help release it too. If you can, try pushing directly down on it whilst undoing it to. For example if using a ratchet push down on the mechanism whilst ratcheting so the torx does not go over to one side.

like this.

Hi there, it may be worth getting a Flue thermometer to see if you are running at the correct temperature. It has three stages to show where you should be. When mine gets slightly too warm I get a smell which is hard to explain but I put it down to the stove being really warm. But slow the the fire down and it goes away. With regards to your flue, if I am looking at your photographs right you have a 5” single wall flue going to a 5” twin wall flue which has a outside diameter of 7” (approx) this is still 5” internal with 1” of insulation. Have you check the smell is not coming from anything around it once it gets warm? Paint, wood?

Thanks CutterSy, I will take a look. I am curious more than anything.

Cheers Jmac, I will take a look

Cheers Spud, If you think it is over the top then I won’t bother. Yes there is some use to this lock down. Thanks again, Phill.

Hi Spud, I had a idea you would comment as this is right up your street. I am not into porting it anything like that. It is more out of curiosity to see that everything is as it should be. Engineering is not a problem as I am a turner/fitter by trade and have easy access to a good old Colchester triumph. I have no intention of changing anything unless something jumps out and then I will be straight back to you for advice. It is also good to know for in the future too if there ever was a problem. I will continue to search google in the mean time. Thanks, Phill.

Hi all, Looking for some help, I am rebuilding a MS440 and will replace piston and cylinder. Whist waiting for parts to be delivered I have been doing some googling about port timing and would like to check mine when i get that far. Does anyone have any instructions or recommend a good youtube video? maybe a video one someone from here has put together? Thank you Phill.

Cheers Spud, I will email L&S and see what they can do for me.

Thank you, I called DIYspares to check stock before I ordered and they did tell me they was not getting parts through. Seems like L&S is the way forward. Thanks again

Thanks for this, I appreciate your time and effort

Thank you for this, appreciate your time and effort.

Hi Chris, I looked online but they are out of stock unfortunately.

Hi all, I am rebuilding a MS440 and struggling to get OEM or decent crank bearings and seals. Ignition side is a non sealed 6202 but clutch side is a 6202 with a wider outer race to allow the seal to be fitted into the bearing housing. Part number I believe are: 9503 003 0346 - Ignition site bearing 9640 003 1320 - Ignition side seal 9523 003 4275 - Clutch side bearing 9640 003 1972 - Clutch side seal Can anyone point me in the right direction for a good stockist or has anyone cross referenced them against a SKF or NTN? Thank you in advance. Phill.

Hi Eggs, chances are some of them are old faults and a possibility that some may come back due to failing components. A friend had a MK6 transit that had a fault every week, he spent a fortune listening to people, I bought this and found the fault straight away. Code readers and Snap On Solus won’t read MK6 Transits. I know your sorted now but invest in your own diagnostics if you have a laptop. I highly recommend this one from EBay and there forum and support is really good SUPER 2 Interface Scanner USB SCAN TOOL Reader for Ford Transit Mondeo Focus OBD WWW.EBAY.CO.UK · Audio Interface Module (AIM). · Accessory Protocol Interface Module (APIM). USB diagnostic scan tool. · Vehicle Dynamics Module (VDM). Laptop based diagnostic USB lead. · All Wheel Drive Module (AWD). For 15 quid it’s worth having for times like now.

Hi there, A decent fabrication / engineering shop should be able to knock you up a new one. Unless you have something special it is only a box section frame welded together. Ideally it would be better to lift the back off and unbolt the frame from the chassis so they can copy and get dimensions right. (They could do that if they have a fork lift) If the back is good then it might even be worth getting the subframe galvanised so it lasts and can be transferred to your next truck.

No problem, let us know how you get on.

Hi there, we also have a BC620i. We swapped the engine for a Deutz when the Hatz give up. We run two separate belts. Take your belt to Compass Bearings & Engineering Supplies in Rainford and they should help you out. If not try Engineering Services In Widnes but they are a bit more expensive

Hi there, have you thought about swapping out the motor for a single phase motor? It should be easy enough to get a like for like unit with same mounting and shaft size. The only issue would be if it is controlled by a control panel but if it’s a on/off switch should not be a problem. You would have to see what HP motor is needed. Have a word with your spark.

Hey, have you tried blanking the pipes off and spraying soapy water around the grommets/pipes and then blow in to the tank from the cap and see where the bubbles come from. With all them new parts it could be a small crack in the tank.

Hi, try Water Lane Farm, Tarbock. More details in the Tip sites directory.

PS, don’t flatten your van battery or your pushing the van home.

Hi there, If your battery was flat and the the alternator is not charging the battery then it will not be able to power the stress control. It will work for a couple of minutes until it has used all the life from the battery after the jump start. Get a multi meter and check if your battery is charging around 12.5v - 13v. Also most solenoids need than 12.5v to activate so if your alternator is not putting out enough volts that could be your problem. If you get stuck swap the battery of your van on to the chipper to keep it going for a few hours. A decent auto elec should be able to test and overhaul your alternator. The other problem could that your battery is knackered and not holding a charge. Hope this makes sense

Hi, I was having problems with a MK6 2.4 TDDI 2005 with no engine management light showing so bought software and cable from eBay £15.00. Used it today and it brought up fuel pump timing solenoid faults which it did let me clear, it also live streams injector data. I tried it on a transit connect first and connected no problem. Providing you have a laptop it’s well worth £15.00 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fits-Ford-Transit-OBD-Diagnostic-Scanner-Tool-USB-Code-Reader-Interface-Cable/223480957816?hash=item340880cb78:g:NY8AAOSwKrhVZH9P