PhillH

Hi all, I have a MS201 that will start eventually but cuts out pretty much straight away or as soon as you touch the throttle. Taking Spuds previous advice on another saw I started with the easy stuff and have replaced the plug, fuel filter and put a gasket kit in the carb but no difference. Anyone have any ideas or is there anything common on these saws. Thank you all in advance. Phill

Thanks@TIMON I was just curious as we all do it and most of the time not intensional

Hi@TIMON, what was the outcome of being over if you don’t mind me asking?

Hi all, a quick update after the support you all gave me. Striped the carb yesterday and gave it a good clean. Assembled with the new gaskets and diaphragm from Rowena motors. Gave it a little more fuel as recommended by@spudulike Put it back together and started after about 6-7 pulls and started first time a few hours later. Checked it again tonight from cold and stared the same 6-7 pulls. It’s starting a lot better than it was and revs up a lot smoother. Fingers crossed it is cured. Thanks again to all for there help and advice

Hi@htb I ordered a kit from Rowena today, excellent service. Will definitely use them again. Thank you for the recommendation

@spudulike , thanks again for your help, I will order one of those kits and see how I get on. I ordered a kit from Rowena today. Excellent customer service to say the least.

Hi@monkeybusiness thank you, that’s is good to know.

Thank you @spuduline your the man who knows I hope your right. When I took the cover off to check the tappets, it was very clean and shiny so I do believe my dad when he says it has not done much. Are these ZAMA C1Q carbs adjustable as I read a thread that say they are not. They have the 4mm heads

@spudulike it’s a 2015 but in very good condition and had very little use. That’s the annoying part. I will go with your recommendations and let you know the outcome.

@oldwoodcutter thank you for sharing, I hope it does not come to that. Let’s see how the carb overhaul and new mix goes first. Thanks again.

Cheers Monkeybusiness, I had read a few post about them carbon’ing up. Definitely worth a try to see if we notice a difference Thanks for your help

Thanks again Spud, I called my dad and he uses Rock oil Groundsman. Have you had any dealings with it? I will call Rowena tomorrow. I am sure I will need a kit for something et else.

Hi Monkeybusiness, why do you say that? Have you had problems using it? What’s the issues you have had as that’s what I have been using so would be interested to know. Thank you

Thank you HTB, I will give them a try.

Thanks Spud, I will order a carb kit from L&S and report back how I get on.

Hi all, I have a HT101 pole saw with running issues, first of all it wasn’t easy to start and then it would struggle to rev up when cold, once warm it would bog down. So I have started with the basics, checked valve clearance, new plug, new air and fuel filter. It then started and was more responsive but now it does not want to start. My next thought was a carb clean and new gaskets. Any ideas anyone? Thank you in advance.

Hi Stu, as Dan says you should be able to get bearings off the shelf. Take it off, knock the bearings out and see if there is any numbers on the side of the outer race. Might need rubbing on some emery cloth to bring the numbers up. If there is no numbers then measure them and search on line. Alternatively go and see a engineering workshop, they should help you out. List the measurements on here if you have no luck.

I get what your saying Ratman, could always put a small chamfer as the flange is tiny. They are like a serated design so they do not unscrew which is the problem I see with heli coils. I am sure we will find out one way or another how OP gets on.

Hi, have a look at these. I found them better than heli coil. I haven’t bought any for a while but they will be available online. They are one piece rather than spring design and have a shoulder on the top. They are designed for spark plug / heater plug thread repairs. ++ TIME-SERT Official Threaded inserts for stripped threads, blown out sparkplugs, WWW.TIMESERT.COM threaded inserts threaded, stripped threads, threaded inserts, blown out sparkplugs, stripped threads, stripped out theads, inserts threaded inserts, ford sparkplug repair, threaded insert thread repair spark plug ford blown, blew out ford sparkplug, stripped theads, threads stripped out, threaded inserts for stripped threads, repairing stripped threads, thread repair kits and inserts, repairing sparkplugs threads, sparkplugs threads have stripped out, screw thread inserts, striped out threads, threaded inserts, automobile threads blown out, motorcycle threads stripped out threads, not helicoil use time-sert thread repair, screw thread insert, inserts for screw threads, screw thead inserts have stripped out

Hi Ian, not sure how much traffic it will see but I had a similar issue. Someone recommended PVA glue and water. I mixed It in a bucket and poured it on. Went over it with a brush to work it in and it’s been fine since. Cheap and easy. Just make a strong mix. Try a small area and see what you think.

Hi Rob, Hi-lift are a brilliant Jack especially as there is service kits / spare parts available. We have also used the turfing function when stuck off road and the electric winch has failed.

Seeing as though he is unable to use the bar and chain keep a eye out for him listing them on eBay, use another eBay account and do the exact same thing to him. Make sure you send him a nice message once you have your bar, chains and refund back [emoji846]. He is probably doing it to everyone..

For the PU adhesive use “Tiger Seal”, that stuff is stronger than a weld on aluminium but don’t get it on your hands or you will have a tattoo for the next 6 month. Lotus Elise aluminium chassis where bonded together, not sure what they used.

Might be worth checking the exciter wire is getting a feed too.

Hi, I know when you change a battery on a Audi it needs coding to the car so Land Rover could be the same with the new technology. It will start but start to bring up faults and not charge. Also the battery has to be of the same type so best to order the battery from the reg plate. Land Rover / Range Rover have changed a lot over the years. Even head lights are coded on the new ones so they can not be just swapped with out the software.