bmp01

If you are interested in how the cab works have a look at the attached Walbro info. Briefly: On choke setting fuel is sucked into carb and the intake port by the piston on its down stroke. During normal running, one half of the carb operates like a pump, lifting fuel from the tank into the other half of the carb - the metering side. Once you have fuel in the carb (and in the saw) from being on the choke setting, if you then take it off choke and the saw runs for a few seconds (while the fuel is used up), then either the carb settings are way out or the carb isn't pumping fuel from the tank. Walbro.pdf

The chain is harder than the file, that's your conclusion. Is it the chain that's too hard ? Could be, if the chain has been sharpened with a grinder and grinding stone hasn't been dressed, it will generate a lot of heat, the tooth shows the steel tempering colours (or worse) and can become very hard as a result. But equally the file might not be up to the job. You didn't mention a brand so does that mean its of unknown origin? Even if the chain were extremely hard i wouldn't expect to see wear on the file unless it's used extensively. All assuming a regular chain material, not one of the carbide tooth jobs. Try the old file. Try the new file on another chain. Get some new files. ... you'll get to an answer quicker than waiting for a response.

Yay, nice one. ... and thanks for info... A good way to diagnose a faulty carb, coil, plug etc is to swap in a known (or tested) good one from a correctly running saw, even a new untested part gives a degree of uncertainty. Not an easy thing to do with a carb though, so usually its a drop of fuel or 'easy start' down the intake and see if it fires.... then go through the fuel system, cheapest / easiest bits first. Glad you got it sorted.

HT130 version, i striped down to clean, put it to one side for a week then spent a sunny afternoon trying to figure out how to put it back together. Bloody nightmare. Can't be sure but I think centre shaft was one piece. Surely if it's broken though, the broken ends will be a bit gnarly, maybe the high points rubbed smooth but unlikely to be like the flat machined ends. I'd expect there to be some debris, if the broken ends have run against each other for any length of time, black pasty yuck if there's any oil/grease around, sliver filings if completely dry..... HTH. Be good to know the answer to this when you get one. ... bmp01

As per bottom of page one...... Shame really, the chance to help others with a snippet of info is lost. Must admit with the detail of the first post i thought this one might be different.

Ok, what happens if you do ? Been thinking i might give that a go, or not if it wrecks the tube ?

This is no plaice for language like that. .... Yeah, ok, I'm leaving now. ..

As far as using the original side cover and chain tensioning mechanism I think you are pretty much screwed with out that feat ure on the bar. It's not a common set up, I'd be surprised if there is a work around. Original spec bar required unfortunately. Hope you get it sorted. 

Looks like there should be some thing on the bar - if you zoom in on exploded parts diagram there is something there but it's not at all clear. Something like a bolt shank ? Are you still using the original bar? Other than that, I guess you wind back the spring lever widget thingee while fitting the side cover over the bar studs then release the spring to push against the feature in the bar ..... All a bit of a punt, not seen one like this before. bmp01

If you could do the lottery with as much accuracy as that you could forget that exit plan of yours, and most other plans for matter. Spot on re carb spec. On the eBay thing, appreciate comment. I agree, but I'm a bit too controlling, I'd like to know it's not selling for peanuts. With the best offers option I get to decide, had 350 and 360 offered but those are ebay pounds not real pounds - robbing sods. There's no rush and no fees at present.

Thank you for the replies. Spud, thanks Mister, I like your first 2 numbers, last one less so. It's about what I hoped. Not sure about the investment theory guys, better value in using it as a money making tool surely. That's for someone with better ability than me. Just to add, I had it pointed out to me its a USA spec saw with the green label on handle (pictures didn't catch that). That is quite correct, maybe that accounts for the exhaust spec. I also noted, while fitting a new fuel line, the carb doesn't have an accelerator circuit - no hole below the throttle spindle anyway ??? Its a proper Stihl carb though so that can only be a good thing IMHO. Thanks again.

G'day, I have a little used MS200T in good condition that occupies space, doesn't get used. I've had it more years than I care to remember, used it a bit shortly after I got it I soon realised a small back handle was the preferred option when used in the woods, on my own and 1/2 mile from the nearest house. Been stored with either no fuel or Stihl long life fuel, gets fired up every once in a while without trouble. I'll put a new fuel line on it anyway. This is the advert I put on e_bay MS200T in exceptional condition for year basically because I haven't used it ! Bar is the original light weight 14" version, a little paint loss but next to no wear. Chain is the original, 1/3 used 2/3 rds left. Starts, runs, chain brakes as it should. Engine Compression measures 165 psi Pictures below, what's it worth on here do we think? Thanks for opinions.... bmp01

Emmm, I must admit I think there is an element of truth in the fresh fuel story but I think it's a limited effect. I mean - it's reasonable to expect some subtances to dissolve in liquids such as acetone, white spirit, petrol even and especially carb cleaner. And as some of the gunge left in carbs etc originally came from petrol its probably reasonable to expect a small fraction of it to dissolve back into the fuel especially if the fuel has components designed to clean the fuel system. I started using super unleaded Shell years ago for exactly this reason, supposed to be a bit more aggressive compared to unleaded. It does help but it's not a cure all, as a first punt its an obvious thing to do. If it helps and equipment is used frequently there after, maybe you get away with the 'fix' as the carb doesn't get further cruded up. But you you've had the warning somethings up, you are running the risk of it reoccurring and you run the risk of equipment seizing if the fueling ain't right. Can't make sense for the pro to chance it with potential rebuild costs, down time and lost earnings. And for a repair service supporting the above or any other industry your reputation isn't going to be worth shit in the long run, sending out kit which may or may not work 2 minutes down the line.

Surprising, but anyway all's good if the problem has gone away. Glad your up and running. bmp01

Two thefts in as many months ??? This is beyond ridiculous...... sorry to hear it.

A heads up for anyone near Leighton Buzzard wanting equipment, there's an advert on gumtree for someone folding their business and selling a lot of kit. Title is "Stihl & husqvarna chainsaw hedge cutter leaf blower strimmer NOT echo makita dewalt" It doesn't look like a pinched gear advert but then would it? Anyone interested please convince your self its genuine. Sorry to see the other post relating to burglary and stolen equipment, in two minds about posting this - if it's deemed to be inappropriate I'll delete it or mods please delete. bmp01

That'll be a new carb then. Ching-ching.....

Stick at it Owain038, you need a result, us too. Don't mind Spud, must have had a hard day at the office and in need of a Snickers bar.

Nice hot (way too hot to hold) spark plug will sometimes help if the fuel mixture is a bit off - you've just to figure out his to do it with the tools you have to hand ? Been a few of these 171 / 181 / 211 won't start issues, and quite a few market carbs after which the requests for help dry up .... Trouble is without feedback we don't know if the repair worked or the saw was binned. Where abouts are you ?

Unfortunately turning the cover fouls the bar before you can begin tightening down. Without the bar, pop the cover on by hand, just want to see if the studs catch on anything.

Seems like it. ... I don't believe the bar thickness has anything to do with it. If I take the bar off my 260 and just put the cover on the gap between clamping faces is approx 3 mm, just sliding it on. Ditto the studs, the stud collar is below the face of the bar. Turn the cover through 180 degrees and see if it goes on. If not why not?

Here's another thing to try, a bit mad but might learn something. Try putting the clutch cover on with it rotated through 180 degrees, so the STIHL badge is upside down. We're checking the cover goes all the way down without the perimeter getting in the way. If not what's stopping it ?

Only 2 things left. ... (that I can think of) 1) the mounting face on the saw has been machined back, or filed or what ever. ...to get rid of a badly worn face. (Pretty unlikely I guess). 2) the perimeter of the side cover contacts the saw early, stopping the clamping face from doing is job. (Wrong side cover, get creative with a file or an angle grinder ?)

Those are useful links. I bet what's happened is that a mish-mash of parts have been fitted, specifically the wrong adjuster widget.... Oik adjuster out. Assemble saw. See if that solves it. Then figure out what to do with adjuster.