Steven P

I am not an installer but. a couple of things to consider, if the chimney is close to the ridge then it has to be 600mm above it and there is a 2.3m rule - draw a circle around your chimney 2.3m larger than then the exterior of the chimney and nothing should be in that area. Height then I think in this position 600mm above the ridge regardless. I don't think there is a rule for the length of a 45 degree section however the longer you make it the more support you will need and the more disruption to your roof I guess. I would guess that the chimney will have to sit off the tiles to stop anything building up underneath - combustible materials such as leaves and you'd probably need to get up there annually to check and clean anything away as necessary (at the end of autumn?). Not sure on this point but a chimney has to be a distance away from combustible materials - such as the wooden roof joists..... better check that too, not sure how tiles will affect that though. Wouldn't be my ideal placement in the middle of the bifold doors, doors open and you have the stove sat in the middle of an open area when they are open - probably in the summer when the stove is out but any kid running around will love to bum into it and if they are anything like mine were, to use it as a pivot when running around - not sure how often you'd need to get the stove fitter to replace chimney parts. Can you locate the stove to the right of the building - can't tell if there is anything on that side of the building - but then you can have the chimney going straight up to the ridge up the outside wall and use that as a support for any corners you want to use

Always been cautions about mushrooms - finding them takes more energy than you get from them but are a nice thing to add to a meal. Then there are the special ones in the field opposite that love to grow out the cow poo.

There is that Australian (?) lady going through the courts just now who learnt her mushrooms well. Kids didn't get any but the ex-in-laws did

If MadMAx is a person, they have a curious way of writing. Might be a translation thing but always about 3 line answers, nothing in detail, no insights that Google can't give you or chat that most people do - even things like asking questions for more information - all the posts are picking up a key word on the original post and writing about that. Struggles in posts where there are photos.... Hmm curious.

If it was cooked up and sold as a prepared that might work? Or wine.

Suspect you show your passport to British officials on the way back who will shrug their shoulders and let you back in again, however go back in to Europe they might have this on record and say 'non' or whatever and bac home again

Risking some wrath here, you are a bender with a description then? I think you're playing along nicely too.

I have a similar idea on my saw horse (domestic wood), the supports are the right width apart for my stove, so with a of of over hang at the end cut in between each support gives me the right length Wheel barrow has a wooden hopper (I was being tight that year, a couple of pallets done nice as a repair), but with a row of nails down the end as a log length guide. We all have our own ways to measure. Odd that a tape doesn't often come into these measurements

So first off, if you are wanting to use it then get it back to the wood store, cut and split as soon as you can - cannot dry any more as it is. What is under the sheeting can be taken out and cut to length. The idea is lots of air flow through the wood will dry it quicker. As for how dry it is, cannot really tell but i could be getting there. If you are getting a moisture meter then test it out on this branch when you get it. Could look for the soapy bubble trick before then.

Not sure but that would be a risk assessment conclusion by someone who has never carried one as shown in the picture, I'd have more concern about the sticky out bits of metal like the spade, rake and saw blade. Sorry, I have a thing about generic risk assessments rather than a risk assessment based on the work site and job to be done. Seen many where walking over a field for work requires steel toe capped boots, hi-vis, helmet and sometimes eye protection, often planning a job before pen set to paper to work out a plan... and walking next to a hiker with shorts and flip flops.

Nanny states, health and safety at work, speed limits, clean air acts, and whatever else you might want to rant about, the rules are only added because enough numpties can't be trusted, have no common sense and have hurt themselves or others - often in the cause of cutting a few corners, getting there quicker or making a bit more cash from someone else. History often tells us that the rules were the right thing to do. Seat belts for example have been shown to save drivers lives... but it is true that when they were introduced more pedestrians and cyclists were killed because the drivers felt safer, drove quicker, but the drivers calmed down after a few years and end result is fewer deaths. ..and yes, it is one of the lines I remember, at the station, and they replied in English, back they went again

Ahh, should have said UK gas prices.... I read somewhere once that UK houses were traditionally built to be leaky - loads of ventilation because we heated with gas and open fires. Leaky houses are easier since the is less build up of carbon monoxide and a mild climate with cheapish fuels this was OK. Look at installing a stove, houses built before a set date (as recently as the late 2000s?) don't need to be checked for air leaks - it is assumed that they are. I bet that in Europe and Scandinavia the homes will need to be checked regardless (though I don't know, google wasn't as helpful as often is). Harsher winters makes poor insulation a bad thing.

Air source heat pump prices - you are comparing an electrically heated house with a gas heated house.... you need to compare like for like, electrically heated vs. electrically heated and there you will find air/ground source heat pumps are cheaper. Not everyone has a gas supply, but gas costs 1/3 of electricity for the same heat? Solar panels, wind mills or whatever you can do at home, lose out a lot if you export the power when you have to much and import it again when you need it (say you sell at 10p/kwh and buy at 30p/kwh), if you can use the power directly you gain more, so a battery needed or do heating with it as and when you can (even hot water)

Think restriction to the speed limit can be dangerous - we are not all brilliant drivers and some sometimes make mistakes - say overtaking a slow vehicle, car, horse where you are completely on the other side of the road, mis-judge the gap and have to accelerate to get past safer (obviously not safely because you wouldn't be in that position in the first place but...). Limit yourself to the speed limit and you don't have that option. Can't argue against speed limits, without them we'd have people doing 70 or 80 through towns, but got to apply the correct limit to the correct road. In Glasgow for example 20mph city centre applies equally to the road past a school as it does to the main road along the river (which is almost a dual carriageway, just needs a central reservation and barriers along the pavement)

Think I am the same as most here, I am in charge of the machines, when the machines are in charge then we are in -need Sarah Connor- trouble

Nessie will of course scarper and hide with all the human activity going on to find it. Come back out later after the Nessie hunt has ended

Depends on what time you have then, a simple saw horse, X supports made from pallet and the supports spaced the correct distance apart for each cut along the log. Put log on, just move along it cutting - better then a log table I think where you'll get enough over the end to cut 1 log else it tips off the edge. Supports don't have to be X shaped, half pallet stood upright with the top half of the middle stringers taken out as an H will work too

Just been looking and that was my next question!! Though for just the carb, not a lot of pressure (or suction, depends which side you are looking at), I was going to go about 0.5mm - see what the motor spares shop has tomorrow.

Thanks, just out of curiosity I might have a go then

Likewise with big steam engines and my dad (and I did a few too) - though with these the flanges were fixed, knock out one bolt hole, bolt the gasket material in place and do the rest. So for my next question, how to resurrect a flat carb....

There is another thread, in the last week about selling a sole trader business, part of the value in that is the contact and client list. Perfectly legal. Imagine the old boss retires in a company, it would be expected they give a handover and introduce the new boss to all the clients. Same thing and happens the world over all the time,. (Might be a different thing - which in this case I very much doubt - if your contact details is anything more than address, phone number, e-mail, your more recent order history, and your credit status)

Putting back together a hedge trimmer and I know I can get the carb gaskets. Just my curiosity, can you buy a sheet of gasket materials to make your own? and what would it be. Or not worth the hassle, stop being tight and just buy some? (in the next year got to service the other hedge trimmer and I know that needs at least 1 gasket, not sure about the leaf blower that is next on the list to look at, suspect it might too - could be wanting to buy a few, or make a few. No rush to get them back in service so can take the time to make something up if needed - working on the n+1 principle of how many tools I need)

Suspect though that you mostly have a fire rather than slumbering logs which is less sooty - a few good hot fires helps a lot keep the soot down I find

I think that this will be common with a lot of health and safety related things, there is no specified maximum. Hypothetically, you'd need parameters on that so you can say you conformed with what was written. Imagine it says "8m/s at 5m above ground level at the base of the tree" but what happens if the base of the tree is in a dip, 5m up you are OK, but then 10 up you are out the dip and the wind speed doubles... but you measured according to the words and are OK to go. Do you measure at the work site - the top of the tree - but then you all ready have climbed to confirm it is dangerous to climb. Second comment if it was specified and 'safe' some will go (or be 'asked' to go) but if it's tipping it down, wind says OK (at the top limit say), but with wet or icy branches? Has to come down to a 'competent person' making assessment on site I think with all the variables - which is in common with a lot of HSE things.

All he has to do is keep his head down and do nothing controversial, be less mental than Liz truss and less corrupt than Boris Johnson. Suppose we just need to wait till he goes proper fruit loop then ( I say from a position of despair, all Labour need is a leader with some charisma - any charisma).