trigger_andy

How unfortunate.

I sometimes process for a mate. Softwood was awesome. Id be filling 12-15 1.5 cube bags a day. Does not sound much but Id have to feed the bed and drive the bags around to the drying shed too. Nice and straight and few issues. Hardwood is a bugger, but at home Im using a Splitter I build myself. But you can play around with the figures quite easily and from country to country. Softwood in Scandinavia is much more dense than in the UK due to the slow growing conditions. But a quick look at any chart will put Beech and Oak at 700-900kg/m3, Scottish being somewhat more dense than European Id assume? European Redwood at 570kg/m3 Spruce at around 400-700kg/m3 and Scots Pine at 510kg/m3. Thats a significant difference. Yeh the price is stupid low, Im stocking up on all I can get my hands on.

Yes, I guess so but the same can be said for hardwood. Control Hardwood and it will burn much longer than controlled softwood. Depends on the Softwood of course and whats being described as Hardwood. Birch can/will burn faster than some dense softwood. I'm getting hardwood in the round for £30 a ton just now, Oak, Birch, Beech and Ash etc. At that price its just not worth me bothering with managed softwood, unless it was free, which it often is.

I think its well known that softwood burns hot, but also for a short period of time. Whilst Im not against softwood per se Id sooner not bother with it unless its free. As Lars Mytting suggests Softwood is for the kitchen.

Nice.

10%? Even outside?

Im no groupie!

Ive been on there quote a few times lurning but very little on the B751.

Yip, torqued to the correct setting. Its an idicator on the B751, you turn the handle till the thrust washed meets a marked setting. Spoke to Logosol today, they said take the handle another half turn after this and maybe a little more and see if that helps. Do you get any waveyness when cutting through knots in your 130?

I had a look at the Mill last night. Each of the Dips where at knots in the in 500mm wide Softwood Log I was milling. Dips down at the Knots, comes back up and settles out, all within 30cm. Then when the next knot is hot it does the same again.

Looks like a really clean example of a classic Chainsaw and for what looks like a great price. Thought Id post up in case there is any collectors out there. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2283648578355635/

Hey, Ive noticed it more with Softwood, but looking back at a stack of Oak I Milled I see its wavey too. Its more pronounced on the Softwood though.

Ive been using the Granberg precision 12v Gringer with the Diamond Grinders from Rob D and I have no issues at all. Its great for the field when you hit metal and need to sharpen all the teeth on a 48" Chain 1+mm or something. Takes the rakers down to a uniform height as well with a quick readjustment.

Yes, two different brand new blades.

Thanks for the tips, any and all are most welcome. Even the daft as it could be something really silly Im doing. Im not putting much pressure on the Saw as I wanted to see if that was causing the issue as well. You can hear from the engine when you push to hard as well, I just let it kinda glide through. Checked, rechecked, triple and quadruple checked the tension, Blade Guides, Wheels for squareness, blade level against the bunks, bunks level, bunks square. Im really at a loss now.

So, I finally have some pictures of the new Logosol Specific Trailer. Its build by a German Trailer Company (dont have a name yet) and supposedly made to meet the stringent German regs to be road legal. It will need approved in the UK though and that would be up to me to have done. Its not much to look at really. Seems really over priced at £2600 plus Vat and £300 plus vat for delivery. Thats £3500 for a very basic looking trailer. On another note my B751 has been cutting 'wavey' its been doing my head in. Ive gone through every and all setting on the mill to ensure the adjustments where spot on. They where all a little off but maybe thats just from it settling in? But they are all good now, even used my verniers where I could. Every single measurement within 1mm. New blades as well.Yet Im still getting a wavey cut. Its hard to see by eye, expecially at the full 600mm wide cuts but you feel it easily with your hand. When you start to dimension it down its very apparent. So Im at a loss what to do next. Apart from buy the Trailer package so I know 100% its not the Hardcore/Sleepers its resting on, plus Logosol could not argue that either.

I completely agree, dont use Driftwood in a Stove because of the reasons I mentioned. Yes, burn on a camp fire. I doubt anyone is referring to camp fires though?

What I stated earlier maybe?

84" with one Saw? How do you find that works out? (Aside from the obvious in this post) What kind of speeds do you get?

Its what Ive been told by numerous Chimney Sweeps who have seen direct evidence of this. Ive not witnessed it personally so I can only go on others advice. Ive also been told not to drink bleach. Now Ive clearly not done this myself but I will trust the experts opinion and not test it to see if its in fact correct. Same goes for burning Drift wood.

Driftwood from the Sea will rot your stove and the flue liner (if you have one) Best avoided.

Another interesting technique I seen in a youtube vid was to cant the log over at around 45 degree's and slab the log up, that way you have a 360 wrap of bark/wany edge on the log.

Surely there is a cheaper way of shipping them in from the US? Id take the risk of just having them popped in an envelope and pay under $5 in postage. Or cant you buy in bulk and cut down on the crooks cut at ParceFarce? Or ship with a courier other than USPS and pay the duty before it arrives and completely cut out ParcelFarce. I do this shipping in American Car parts.

Correct. Told her she was gonna get a good time with 8" tonight and she asked if we where doing it twice.

Story of my life.