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Puffingbilly413

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Everything posted by Puffingbilly413

  1. The answer is that you can't find them because they don't exist. I've never come across any that's for sure. I've a few older lads that arent tree guys but who will put in a good shift on the ground but they want £15-16 an hour or they won't bother. Doesn't help with your manpower issue I know but that's the reality of it. Most of the time when I need a hand I will be the groundie and a freelance climber will come in. As long as it's priced into the job first then the money ends up the same for us anyway really.
  2. Do you have a breakdown of what your course covered IE individual competencies etc? If so take it to your insurer and ask them if they would cover you on that basis? I suspect they'll slope shoulders and say they want you to do the current version.
  3. One of my favourites. Hard to find it under £7 a bottle up here now.
  4. SIP make some good value stuff. I have a couple pairs of their trousers and they're way better than my old arbortecs.
  5. Maybe it's hollow and has a hoard of Roman gold coins in it.
  6. I think someone mentioned this above somewhere but it many cases it will still come down to money. Firms pay climbers to climb - climbers get paid more than groundworkers ergo from a purely financial perspective people don't want to pay a climber to do groundwork and be on standby to rescue. If you train your ground staff to be as competent at aerial rescue as the regular climbers then they will make that transition (probably) to climbing and the firm will be back where they started. This could be mitigated by having pre installed rescue lines that save time in the event of a rescue and mean an occasional climber can access the tree more quickly. But this puts more time on the job and people seem IME reluctant to do it in practice. We should def practice rescue and fist aid scenarios more often but we don't. Especially in small firms where time is money even more so than in larger ones where they have more scope to absorb it. What's the solution? As with all costs they have to be factored into the job. So ultimately customers have to be willing to pay towards this in their bills. Assuming this isn't really the case just now then jobs need to cost more or we have to take less money to compensate. Both are tricky to resolve obviously.
  7. Yep true enough. But there's always a market somewhere. Why buy from an independent wine seller when I can get cheap drinkable plonk from the supermarket? But many do. Farmshops our way have some eye watering prices but really good quality stuff and they are doing well most of them. That would be where to get charcoal into - it's just a question of what kind of take they want v our margins I think if you can find people who are interested in a sustainable, low carbon impact, local product then you will have demand. But you're not going to make a career out of it, no way. Just one of many things to offer and something to keep an old twat busy when he reaches (semi) retirement.
  8. Biochar on the face of it seems quite lucrative especially as it's really just the fines from grading your charcoal anyway. I haven't tried selling any but online prices are certainly strong. Bit like wood chip - we give it away but a coffee bag sized bag of it for smoking meat if it's oak or fruit wood can easily be a tenner. And firewood £100 odd a cube but small smoking chunks are ten times that.
  9. Not bad advice if you only want a bit to see you through a few summer BBQs. I used to make it in a billy in the wood stove for my own use . Didn't take that long. I've recently bought a Dartmoor Dragon retort - there's a thread on them on here. Takes about 4-5 hrs to covert an oil drum's worth of mixed hardwood. Less if you use smaller feedstock. I get about 22-23kg per burn. Depends where you're selling and to who but it seems to go for the equivalent of £2.80 a kilo. No way you can compete with supermarkets on price but definitely can on quality, locality and sustainability. Even FSC fair trade stuff from abroad is covered in accelerant to make it burn and has dubious 'food' miles. But decent local hardwood lumpwood stuff gives great heat and will do so for ages compared to cheaper stuff so you do get value for money. I make it on off days when there's no arb work booked in - I can log firewood or do whatever in the background whilst keeping an eye on the retort
  10. I was going to ask but what was the 'detail' that was deemed flawed by the aa? And as per the above post - if it's not required under Schedule 1 what's the issue? If it missed something out required by Schedule 1 then what was it? Hard to work out how bad something is or not otherwise.
  11. Oak really needs to air dry for a good while to let the tannins leach out before going into a kiln. You'll need to be patient and play the waiting game if you want indoor furniture from it. If you're happy with rustic outdoor stuff then mill it thick and use it green.
  12. If you have at least six months of work booked in then this would make it attractive to some - by the time six months rolls by then hopefully the new faces should be established enough to continue where you left off. Not sure how this works for a sole trader as essentially your firm is just you 'trading as'
  13. Root protection areas are estimated are roughly circular with a radius approx 12 x the diameter of the trunk at breast height (DBH). It's only guide and as others have said will be affected by other factors (rooting environment, obstacles etc). But it will give you an approximate idea of root spread (not depth though). What's the reason for the question? It might help get slightly more detailed answers.
  14. For England you need to register here https://environmentliconline.co.uk/?gclid=CjwKCAjwyqWkBhBMEiwAp2yUFn3fBWZldgjPbJn5uqhcfeuX0Qrkz6j2jokTl8h6HyUlynQ0NjtTghoCD7QQAvD_BwE From what you describe IE a tree surgery business moving ARB waste (logs and chip), it sounds like you'd need the lower tier - but all the answers are there. You shouldn't need any more than that if all you are doing is moving from A to B and dropping off - and that is where your involvement ends.
  15. I know of two locally. Whether they run better I don't know really as only used them a tiny bit. But oh my life they are loud. As in Dougie Lampkin on steroids loud.
  16. Last pic does look like holly. If it burns like coal then it almost certainly is. Great firewood.
  17. A lad near me sells tonne bags of larch for I think £80 a bag. Used to be less but he went up this year I seem to remember. He sells it as a sideline - perhaps a couple of hundred bags. Always runs out by about Christmas.
  18. Taken from the .gov website. Detail is in the Town and Country Planning Act etc. "What is the exception for work to prevent or abate a nuisance? The authority’s consent is not required for carrying out the minimum of work on a tree protected by an Order that is necessary to prevent or abate a nuisance. Here ‘nuisance’ is used in its legal sense, not its general sense. The courts have held that this means the nuisance must be actionable in law – where it is causing, or there is an immediate risk of it causing, actual damage. When deciding what is necessary to prevent or abate a nuisance, tree owners and, where applicable, their neighbours and local authorities, should consider whether steps other than tree work might be taken. For example, there may be engineering solutions for structural damage to buildings." I believe Mynors reckoned preventing an actionable nuisance was didn't necessarily mean to prevent damage but also other circumstances but I'd need to check that.
  19. Ingress of seedheads or similar somehow getting into the carb/ fuel lines ? A guess based solely on what it's been working on.
  20. Depends how litigious the neighbour is I suppose. It might also prove difficult to find a firm to take the job on if there's a boundary or ownership dispute. It's not pissing the neighbour off that's the issue, it's doing so whilst potentially giving them ammunition to take action themselves.
  21. The point is that it isn't fact - well not necessarily. You can't really determine ownership if you're unsure of the true boundary. Generally speaking it tends to the case that ownership falls to the one which the majority of the tree sits. It really depends how much effort you want to go to to establish the 'facts' here. If I had proof of the boundary's position I'd just go ahead and get the work done. If I were unsure then I'd find out first - esp as your neighbour seems to want to fight their corner.
  22. A TPOd woodland would continue to offer protection for naturally seeded trees after the original TPO date. It seems as if there should have been a variation of this particular TPO at the time of the building of new houses/gardens to reflect the fact that the woodland boundary has, in effect, changed. I'm presuming that all the building works and tree felling at that time were done with required planning consent (including permission to fell protected trees). If so, then it shouldn't take much for the council to recognise that the existing TPO needs changing. I say should - because in practice councils tends to change things at glacial pace. Going back to your fear of prosecution - I would say you can relax a bit. I can't see any local authority going after you in these circumstances - they'd be daft to as I can't see from what you've described how they could legitimately consider your garden trees as falling under this particular TPO. It was made to protect a woodland which in the case of your garden no longer exists.
  23. Were the garden trees you pruned planted after the original TPO? If so then they shouldn't fall under it.

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