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brisbane trees

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Everything posted by brisbane trees

  1. Don't sprinkle salt. It harms the soil. Saline soil isn't easily remediated and the salt doesn't allow anything to grow afterwards. Glyphosate is degradable, so it breaks down easily. On a similar note, I see posts on facebook from time to time advocating these home solutions for weeds. Most contain salt. They are supposedly a better alternative to glyphosate because big, bad Monsanto is behind round up. Salt is a much worse chemical for soil than glyphosate.
  2. First poison it to kill it. Glyphosate is ok if strong enough, but I use a purpose tree poison. Perhaps regulations don't allow that there. Until the tissue is killed the stored starch gives the tree a second chance to grow. Then, this: except urine will dissipate, so use a high nitrogen fertilizer. Hopefully you can find 30:0:0 or more.
  3. I've done a bit of work on gums, being an Australian arborist. If they are collar cut they will grow over, but it's important to follow the standards for pruning. Every cut needs to be taken back to a previous fork with a branch of at least one third diameter of the one being removed, to take over. It's just as likely a branch will die if cut in the wrong place, too. What species of Eucalyptus was that, by the way? Some are more prone to branch drop than others.
  4. Not self-propelled, but I bought a stump grinder for less than 1k on ebay. It's powered by a 13hp Honda imitation motor. It's ground some huge stumps and on its second motor now. I admit, I'm nearly ready to go to a self-propelled stump grinder myself, too. I just wanted to share that it is possible to start small.
  5. Well, I'm still in trees, however this week I treated three poincianas for poinciana caterpillars. It had me thinking that if I do my study (hard when there's plenty of tree work on, and I feel exhausted after it), maybe I can do arboricultural work that doesn't involve removing trees and pruning them. Next week I'm spraying one of them again. It still involves climbing, but it's much easier without the removal part. I got the work by coming up with a combination attack against an insect pest that's been plaguing us, where I live. It was nice to get a reward for my arboriculture study. It made me feel like a real arborist!
  6. I also have a Honda. Another advantage is the quiet, smooth engine. It's less whizz than a 2 stroke, but still cuts as well with some real torque. It's hard for a tree man to go past Stihl, though. At least you don't have to go to another shop for parts. In this case though, if the dealer was pushing you in a different direction I guess he supports those, too.
  7. It's so dangerous to have broken or worn out clutch springs on a chainsaw you take up a tree. Good on you for sorting it out promptly.
  8. Great video, mate. I've started using a Gopro too, though I only have the first model. Which one was that made with? I've found the sound on mine to be awful. Wind affects it badly in trees, as does the waterproof shroud. I'm now using my Samsung s4 for sound, and splicing the sound and video together later. As for different angles, a camera set up on a tripod gives a good view too and it doesn't take your groundie away from the tree work.
  9. I find most of my slab customers are prepared to do the work of smoothing them out, and it's just not financially viable for me to muck around with them. Actually, I now have an arrangement with a miller to take my logs, slab them up, and we split the proceeds. I then have plenty enough to sell on weekends, and it doesn't take up my time. If I wasn't working full-time on trees I might be able to afford the time to work with the wood, but I'd count it as a hobby.
  10. I've used electric planers but found it to be very difficult to get an even finish. They do remove wood fast, so they're good for removing uneven cut marks from a saw. I learned a lesson about buying good quality, though. Really cheap ones are useless. I'd then go down to flap discs on an angle grinder followed by sanding. I agree about going to a wood workshop to have them pump it through their thicknesser and planer if you can afford it, though.
  11. If you are considering a Stihl 880, why not also consider a Husqvarna 3120xp? Do you have them there? I'm in Australia and I'd say they're favoured here over the big Stihl chainsaws. I don't know about for milling in particular, but we use the Huskies on tree removals.
  12. Husqvarna have better antivibe, something that is underrated until you hit 40 (I have ). I can't really compare though: I've only used the 660, since the tree services firm I used to work for was Stihl only, and I can't afford a big saw of my own, yet. When I can I will favour Husky.
  13. Your local arboriculture business will likely give you some for free if you can pick them up from the jobsite. One warning, though: I think all tree surgeons have been messed around by wood workers of various types. If you say you'll pick up a log you must do so. Since you are asking about buying them, they'll deliver if you are willing to pony up. Before you contact them I'd suggest you have a list of local tree species from which you want wood. If you don't know that yet, you might like to do a little research or ask another wood carver.
  14. No, that's not it. That articles just says how the rules of nomenclature were last changed and decided by the Eighteenth International Botanical Congress held in Vienna, Switzerland, in 2006, which is referred to as the Vienna Code. What I'm wondering is, when a journal publishes a paper that proposes a name change, does that have to be accepted or is the publication enough? Further, what resources exist to research name changes? This isn't an academic question. Many species and genera have been getting shuffled around due to advances in molecular biology and DNA testing. From my own neck of the woods (I'm in Brisbane, Australia), Eucalyptus has been broken up into three genera while Calllistemons are being moved back into Melaleuca. Considering the second example, I've read that my state's herbarium isn't using the changed name while our national one is. How confusing is that? So, I'm wondering if anyone knows when the change in trees' names officially take effect.
  15. It's times like this we realise it's a brotherhood of climbers and we are all vulnerable. Get well soon.
  16. Hi I know species names change quite a bit. I was reading today that Caeselpinia ferrea, leopard tree, was proposed to be changed to Libidibia ferrea in 2005 and was accepted in 2006. I understand that the change would be proposed in a journal article, is that right? Who then has to accept the change? Is there an international body that oversees plant nomenclature? Thanks
  17. No, and I couldn't even find the specs online. I really have only big saws (365/046) other than the small ones, though I wouldn't mind getting a mid-range for sculpting, if that's what the go is. I'm open to suggestions. My local arb shop was only promoting the Sthil 192 and a little 150 for sculpting. They might not actually know anything about it.
  18. I use a bucket of vinegar for my old chains. It's cheap and brings them up surprisingly well.
  19. AQF level 2 is so low you'd hardly need to climb a tree. We have RPL, recognition of prior learning. You can turn up at a trade college (and some cash) and show them you can climb and you'd probably walk out with a level 3.
  20. ...and is there an Australian arborist's or tree services forum? We used to have one but I think they got hit with some litigation and closed down, though I don't know the whole story.
  21. As has been said, generic Chinese ebay saws are a waste of money. Sure they're cheap, but they really are worthless. Whatever you were going to put into one, you're better off putting either back into your own pocket or saving to invest in a Stihl or Husqvarna, or even a small Echo. It's usually better to stick to one brand, so in your case I'd suggest saving it until you want your next Stihl. On the other hand, I now run Husky for all tree work because they have better antivibration. If that is an issue for you as well you might like to try one.
  22. Hi, and thanks for replying. I can see you know your stuff, so please excuse me for making the most of it. Would you mind suggesting what acid or alkali I should use to clean up the cylinder? Is there a set technique I should use? Would just rubbing it with vinegar possibly work? Thanks very much.
  23. Like a lot of arborists, I've moved from Stihl to Husky for my main climbing saw, a t540xp. Are there sculpturing bars available for them? I've got some old ms192t's, and I know I can get the right bars for them at a local arborcultural supplies shop, but I'm guessing the extra power of the Husky would be helpful. Besides, the husky is now my favourite companion, not the old Stihl.
  24. It's scored. It was my first bigger saw and I once ran it with cheap oil while spending a hot day cutting up a huge mango tree. Thanks, I see there are some available on ebay. Would you suggest a particular carby? I saw another thread on this site about honing the bore and I'm considering whether I'd get away with that.

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