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Paul in the woods

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Everything posted by Paul in the woods

  1. Paul in the woods
    Did you get the Oregon PS250 in the end? I've been looking at the battery pole saws and, like you, the Oregon seems reasonable compared to the Stihl and Husky. Curious to know if anyone has used one or if they are any better battery pole saws out there for £300 or less.
  2. Paul in the woods
    Looks like an evening primrose.
  3. Paul in the woods
    Thanks all, I assume two inch gap is from the edge of the spocket? If I go closer make sure it doesn't get too hot.
  4. Paul in the woods
    I've watched quite a few of your vids Rob so I know roughly what to do, but I couldn't find anything that covered the basics, e.g. how close is too close to the nose sprocket (one inch, two)? Would the bar I mention be ok to get me going do you think?
  5. Paul in the woods
    Right, I have my Eco Mill and suitable saw. Are there any basic instructions on setting up your saw to go with the mill? Details on how and where to clamp the mill to the saw, chain tension etc? Also, are any bars better than others? Would an Oregon Powermatch bar be ok to start with or would the replaceable nose cause any issues with the end clamp?
  6. Paul in the woods
    Same here, especially when some machines list 25:1. I'll probably mix up a 40:1 mix to start with, or email them and see if they say Aspen 2 is ok.
  7. Paul in the woods
    It may well only get used 3-4 times a year. I'd also use it to see what tools I use most before deciding if I need to buy something better. (I.e. buy a better quality multi-tool or a couple of specific tools.)
  8. Paul in the woods
    Is this the correct oil? Red Line Oils Redline 2 Stroke Racing Oil I ask as it doesn't list chainsaws etc in the desc so wise to check before ordering. Also, how long does an opened pot last? I would have thought several years?
  9. Paul in the woods
    These 4-in-1 petrol multi-tools are back in my local Lidls next weekend, for £129, and I'm tempted to get one for some odd jobs about the place. One question for those with one or similar Lidl tool, what fuel do they specify and what mix ratio? I'd plan to run it on Aspen 2 if it's happy with a 50:1 mix but don't want to void the warranty. https://www.lidl.co.uk/en/Non-Food-Offers.htm?articleId=4094
  10. Paul in the woods
    I think he's referring to the fact Charles was born before Liz was crowned QEII. But then his statement was rather ambiguous.
  11. Paul in the woods
    Edward is the 3rd son, Andy is the 2nd.
  12. Paul in the woods
    If you left it tipped slightly overnight wouldn't it gradually lower anyway? I suppose you could put some wooden blocks under the back if you remember they are there before driving off. Or just park on a slope.
  13. Paul in the woods
    I'm glad to say we have loads of slow worms down here in Devon, from little tiny babies to some fairly large ones which will hopefully be giving birth in a couple of months (saw a pair courting the other day, well one holding the other in a headlock.)
  14. Paul in the woods
    Sounds like a difficult tusk.
  15. Paul in the woods
    I would if the dealership was close by but they would need to collect it and redeliver. I've spoken to them and as the idle speed is user adjustable it seems pragmatic for me to do it myself. I do have a couple of closer dealers (within an hours drive) but they've not been that great with other stuff so I went for the cheapest option knowing I'd have to sort out a few issues myself.
  16. Paul in the woods
    Thanks Matty. As a novice I'm going on what's in the manual, which I assume are often rather cautious. I'm working out a sensible way to start the saw, hence the question. My small saw doesn't tell me to use the throttle lock on a warm saw, but the larger 80cc one does. I do tend to start the saw and then release the chain brake immediately rather than blip the throttle. As you say, let it run for a few seconds and then rev it a bit.
  17. Paul in the woods
    This may sound like a daft question but how do you all go about removing the throttle latch/lock when starting a saw? The instructions for mine tell me to have the chain brake on when starting and as soon as the saw is started tap/squeeze the throttle. Sounds straight forward although it's always puzzled me that the instructions also tell you never to use the throttle when the chain brake is on as serious damage/end of the world etc will occur. I ask as I'm setting the idle speed of my new saw and it stalls if I just gently tap the throttle but runs ok with a heftier blip. I'm not sure if I should increase the idle speed some more or carry on with a hefty blip. Do many of you start the saw without the brake on?
  18. Paul in the woods
    Thank's for the replies everyone. I'm in NW Devon. I did consider the DCS9010 but that's going to be too big for what I want in the woods if I'm honest. I know it would be better suited to milling but I'd have to get a smaller saw to go with it. I've been mulling over saws and mills for ages so I picked up Rob's ecomill offer and think I'll get the Mak 7900 to get started. If I get on ok I'll just have to upgrade at a later date, hopefully when I know what I'm doing! Mr Wizzard, are you using a standard bar? One thing I might consider is a lo-pro bar and I'd like to know if anyone has tried it on the 7900?
  19. Paul in the woods
    It's on the list of things to do. A poly tunnel will cost more and possibly need planning so I'd like to get something to be getting on with.
  20. Paul in the woods
    I'm not overly keen on a 2nd hand saw as I'm not that experienced so may not be able to spot a dodgy saw plus I'm fairly remote so it's going to take ages to go and see one.
  21. Paul in the woods
    Slowly here, it's been a cold, wet very, very windy May and June. Early potatoes are almost ready for lifting but other things such as courgettes are still in the greenhouse waiting to go out. Currently looking at buying one of those walk in windmesh tunnels for next year.
  22. Paul in the woods
    Sorry for yet another chainsaw thread. I'm after a larger saw for use around the woodland and for a bit of small log milling. This is just for personal use so I'm not looking for speed, logs will not be that long and mostly 12"-18" wide with the odd one being a bit wider. A mix of alder, ash, beech etc and the odd bit of oak. I've noticed the Makita EA7900P45E for under £600 and that seems like the cheapest I can get a decent sized saw for (78.5cc / 4.2kw power). I know many will say get something more powerful but I'd rather see how I get on and see how much extra wood I can find before investing in anything much bigger. It's more than I need for logging but will it cope with what I want to mill? Are there any better saws out there for £600?
  23. Paul in the woods
    That video is truely shocking, the stump is ridiculously high.
  24. Paul in the woods
    I will have a few areas to protect and shooting is an option in one wood. However, there's not a huge population of roe about, just the odd one and they can nip the tops off a row of trees in an hour or two. I want to give the hedge I'm planting a good start so I'd like to protect it for a couple of years. I don't think an electric fence would be practical in this case although I'll keep it in mind for future areas. It's good to see people have used the plastic mesh, any recomendations or is it all fairly similar?
  25. Paul in the woods
    Has anyone used anything different to the tall galvanised deer fencing? I would like to fence of an area to plant a wide hedge, about a 50m length, and I notice plenty of places selling plastic mesh deer fencing these days. Would anyone recommend it? I'm not looking for a permanent solution, just something to keep the roe deer off for a few years so the trees and shrubs can get a start. I've tried tubes and other single tree protection but found it tends to rub or get blown over on exposed sites so thing some fencing would be best.

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