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Paul in the woods

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Everything posted by Paul in the woods

  1. Same here, especially when some machines list 25:1. I'll probably mix up a 40:1 mix to start with, or email them and see if they say Aspen 2 is ok.
  2. It may well only get used 3-4 times a year. I'd also use it to see what tools I use most before deciding if I need to buy something better. (I.e. buy a better quality multi-tool or a couple of specific tools.)
  3. These 4-in-1 petrol multi-tools are back in my local Lidls next weekend, for £129, and I'm tempted to get one for some odd jobs about the place. One question for those with one or similar Lidl tool, what fuel do they specify and what mix ratio? I'd plan to run it on Aspen 2 if it's happy with a 50:1 mix but don't want to void the warranty. https://www.lidl.co.uk/en/Non-Food-Offers.htm?articleId=4094
  4. I think he's referring to the fact Charles was born before Liz was crowned QEII. But then his statement was rather ambiguous.
  5. Edward is the 3rd son, Andy is the 2nd.
  6. If you left it tipped slightly overnight wouldn't it gradually lower anyway? I suppose you could put some wooden blocks under the back if you remember they are there before driving off. Or just park on a slope.
  7. I'm glad to say we have loads of slow worms down here in Devon, from little tiny babies to some fairly large ones which will hopefully be giving birth in a couple of months (saw a pair courting the other day, well one holding the other in a headlock.)
  8. Sounds like a difficult tusk.
  9. I would if the dealership was close by but they would need to collect it and redeliver. I've spoken to them and as the idle speed is user adjustable it seems pragmatic for me to do it myself. I do have a couple of closer dealers (within an hours drive) but they've not been that great with other stuff so I went for the cheapest option knowing I'd have to sort out a few issues myself.
  10. Thanks Matty. As a novice I'm going on what's in the manual, which I assume are often rather cautious. I'm working out a sensible way to start the saw, hence the question. My small saw doesn't tell me to use the throttle lock on a warm saw, but the larger 80cc one does. I do tend to start the saw and then release the chain brake immediately rather than blip the throttle. As you say, let it run for a few seconds and then rev it a bit.
  11. This may sound like a daft question but how do you all go about removing the throttle latch/lock when starting a saw? The instructions for mine tell me to have the chain brake on when starting and as soon as the saw is started tap/squeeze the throttle. Sounds straight forward although it's always puzzled me that the instructions also tell you never to use the throttle when the chain brake is on as serious damage/end of the world etc will occur. I ask as I'm setting the idle speed of my new saw and it stalls if I just gently tap the throttle but runs ok with a heftier blip. I'm not sure if I should increase the idle speed some more or carry on with a hefty blip. Do many of you start the saw without the brake on?
  12. Thank's for the replies everyone. I'm in NW Devon. I did consider the DCS9010 but that's going to be too big for what I want in the woods if I'm honest. I know it would be better suited to milling but I'd have to get a smaller saw to go with it. I've been mulling over saws and mills for ages so I picked up Rob's ecomill offer and think I'll get the Mak 7900 to get started. If I get on ok I'll just have to upgrade at a later date, hopefully when I know what I'm doing! Mr Wizzard, are you using a standard bar? One thing I might consider is a lo-pro bar and I'd like to know if anyone has tried it on the 7900?
  13. It's on the list of things to do. A poly tunnel will cost more and possibly need planning so I'd like to get something to be getting on with.
  14. I'm not overly keen on a 2nd hand saw as I'm not that experienced so may not be able to spot a dodgy saw plus I'm fairly remote so it's going to take ages to go and see one.
  15. Slowly here, it's been a cold, wet very, very windy May and June. Early potatoes are almost ready for lifting but other things such as courgettes are still in the greenhouse waiting to go out. Currently looking at buying one of those walk in windmesh tunnels for next year.
  16. Sorry for yet another chainsaw thread. I'm after a larger saw for use around the woodland and for a bit of small log milling. This is just for personal use so I'm not looking for speed, logs will not be that long and mostly 12"-18" wide with the odd one being a bit wider. A mix of alder, ash, beech etc and the odd bit of oak. I've noticed the Makita EA7900P45E for under £600 and that seems like the cheapest I can get a decent sized saw for (78.5cc / 4.2kw power). I know many will say get something more powerful but I'd rather see how I get on and see how much extra wood I can find before investing in anything much bigger. It's more than I need for logging but will it cope with what I want to mill? Are there any better saws out there for £600?
  17. That video is truely shocking, the stump is ridiculously high.
  18. I will have a few areas to protect and shooting is an option in one wood. However, there's not a huge population of roe about, just the odd one and they can nip the tops off a row of trees in an hour or two. I want to give the hedge I'm planting a good start so I'd like to protect it for a couple of years. I don't think an electric fence would be practical in this case although I'll keep it in mind for future areas. It's good to see people have used the plastic mesh, any recomendations or is it all fairly similar?
  19. Has anyone used anything different to the tall galvanised deer fencing? I would like to fence of an area to plant a wide hedge, about a 50m length, and I notice plenty of places selling plastic mesh deer fencing these days. Would anyone recommend it? I'm not looking for a permanent solution, just something to keep the roe deer off for a few years so the trees and shrubs can get a start. I've tried tubes and other single tree protection but found it tends to rub or get blown over on exposed sites so thing some fencing would be best.
  20. I've used a Kania 2000. I found it a bit tricky to set and I only caught a single tree rat. Mine has a mesh tunnel and it has been suggested other squirrels may be put off the trap if they see a dead relative hanging out so you might wish to try a covered tunnel. I've had more success with body grip traps in these boxes: https://www.fourteenacre.co.uk/shop/fineren-bodygrip-box-for-squirrels/ I went on a simple cause with Dave Fineren and find the body grip traps easy to set (after a bit of careful practice) and successful if you bait the trap for a few days before setting the trap. I've had a new squirrel spring within minutes of resetting it. One thing that has helped is to start baiting an area now if you can, before setting the traps, so the young bark strippers get used to finding food.
  21. If it can be done over the next week or two I can help.
  22. Wasp beetle, Clytus arietis, or a similar longhorn beetle.
  23. I have the Stihl MSA 120 and have used it a fair bit domestically for about 6 months but not seen the Husky. I like the Stihl, it's light and ideal for what I want which is cutting small branches, pruning etc. Much of that is down to the chain and bar, the Husky looks to have a wider chain which would put me off a bit. I do find the Stihl noisier than I expected, an annoying sequel when the motor starts and stops and I'm not keen on the tool-less chain tensioner either as it seems to clog up with chippings. I would happily buy another MSA 120 if I lost mine.
  24. It cuts, splits and drys well, burns with a lovely scent but it burns quick. As for ash, I don't think you can buy seedlings any more but you could grow your own.
  25. Is it worth planting sweet chestnut these days with it's various diseases? Disease also rules out ash at the moment. On my patch of young woodland the beech is dying off at about 25 years old probably because the ground is too wet for it. The oaks have been attacked by squirrels who have also killed the only hornbeam I had. Alder is doing ok, seems to be deer resistant as well as being ignored by the squirrels. Not a long lasting firewood though although good for wild life. Hazel, field maple etc are doing ok but not huge trees, what about wild pear/apple? I like sycamore but it's a squirrel magent, although some suggest planting it to keep them off your oak, beech etc.

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