Johnpl315
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Everything posted by Johnpl315
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Ok I didn't spend that long looking because I wasn't making much money milling and it has taken the back seat now as I have other work on. I was was happy to pay £10 per hour. Work was helping assemble the mill on site, help move large bits of timber such as 8x8 posts that are just a bit much to move single handedly. If I have more work available I admit I would of been looking to pay more like £8 per hour. However, no tickets where required. No ppe. Was required. There was no wear and tear on tools or equipment. It was only a few years ago I was happy enough working for £8 an hour carrying bundles of hazel coppice out of the wood. If was not a job for a chainsaw operator. Do you think that's an unfair amount?
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I second that. I have tried to find cheap labour to assist with my small scale milling operation. It was not strenuous work and I offered what I considered fair pay but I did get any takers so I gave up
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I am self employed but if someone I work for said that to me I would tell them to go for it. Try getting youngsters to work long hours in the rain it's not always as easy as you might think!
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Because climbing requires more skill and experiance?
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I have been following this thread with interest. I don't know if this is feasible or not. If you had to pully blocks. On at the top, one at the bottom. I would set the tirfor at the top so it's well out of the firing line. Get one very long rope and thread it through the pulley blocks. Tie the two ends together and create a loop. Also tie a loop in the center of the rope. Pull the setup tight. Now when one loop is at the bottom the other will be at the top. I would be looking at modifying a pair of timber tongs for small timber so you don't have to strop every log. When you send a log down the other loop will come back up, the guy at the bottom can unhook the log and you can send the next one down. What does everyone think? The only downside I can see is if the tension required to stop it sagging is such it prevents the rope from running freely through the pulleys
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I didn't have any real meaning behind my post, I was just airing my thought that it's not suprising it's hard to find someone to do pretty boring work feeding a chipper when they can earn more money (& street cred!) by climbing.
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I think it's hard for firms to keep groundsman because they all want to make more money so the ones who are any good go on to become climbers as soon as they can. I don't really see why groundy pay should be lower though, the job is just as important, it's just as physically demanding, it's got the same running costs. Sorry this is not really helpful but just putting it out there...
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You could get a chainsaw mill as well. Then you could quarter large logs with the chainsaw before breaking them down further with the ripsaw.
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Ripsaw portable sawmills - Shopping
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Idiot proof tools
Johnpl315 replied to the village idiot's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
It would of helped I am sure but I would of said it's only really any good extracting downhill on firm ground. On hard tracks it may work better but imaging how hard it is pushing a trailer weighing half a ton, why would this be easier? That said, with two people on it it may prove more usefull or better still behind a quad or compact tractor. I am hanging on to mine as it would still allow you to extract big timber with small machinery -
Idiot proof tools
Johnpl315 replied to the village idiot's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
I bought a buck logging arch for a job moving rail size lumps of sweet chestnut. It is clearly a very well build product but the ground was soft and I could lift very large logs but it sunk about 6 inches in to the ground so the only way I could move it was with a hand winch. Very slow and backbreaking. -
I would not go and do a job for less than £50 unless it was really local to me or I thought more work would come of it. You mention chipping but I definitly would not got to a job equipped with a chipper for less than £100 although he could of taken said branches away and chipped elsewhere. So to conclude, in my opinion, the issue is not with the price but the quality of the work.
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I agree, I think £15 per foot would be the minimum price for the cheapest option. Good quality oak ie. beam quality £25 per cube, special stuff, ie. yew, elm, etc £30 a cube upwards. Otherwise log it up! Generally I would value beech down around the £15 a cube mark but if it's pretty and you find someone who really likes it charge what you like!
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Haha would be nice to sell for £30 but I can't see that happening. I may hold fire for the moment unless I can get it really cheap...
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There are a few big branches, would they do for engraving?
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I know there is nothing wrong with chainsaw milling but I personally find it hard work, hard on the kit, use a lot of fuel and time consuming. I hear what you are saying about the width though. Food for thought.
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I was hoping to avoid chainsaw milling, what if I just cut it all to 6x2 or 8x2?
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Hi. I have come across a decent lump of pear. I have had a search of the forum and the general consensus seems that is worth milling. Now I don't really want to through saw it as that would involve digging out chainsaw milling kit and I know pear is very hard so I would rather cut it with the turbosaw. Any advice for what spec to cut it to? I am thinking maybe just cut it in to large posts and sell cheap and the buyer could resaw to whatever spec they want? Thanks
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Imo it would be unlikely so get white finger after 10years of chainsaw use. Av mounts on saws are so good now, the only time I feel has the potential is chainsaw milling. I know of foresters who have been in the game 40 years, back then there where no av mounts. Back may be screwed but hands are ok!
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I would phone around and see what any local mills are willing to offer. The trees look good quality (I would be interested if local to me!). You don't have to accept any offers they make and it's a better option than fire wood. If you want to get it milled yourself then be prepared to spend a bit of time advertising. I have always found square posts sell fairly easily. The problem I have, say you cut a 6" slab and cut some 6x6 posts, inevitably at the end you will be left with a section that won't make a 6x6 but seems to good for firewood. You may cut a 6x2 or something and that's the bits that never sell
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I was thinking of getting one of these a while ago. I know the come with a range of attachments, including a logging arch. I already have a logrite arch, what kind of size log do we think it could shift? I bought the arch for a job moving some chestnut I bought "in situ" but it didn't work as the ground was so wet it sunk 6" in to the mud and I couldn't pull it. I ended up laboriously hand winching each piece to my mill and then carried 50 sleepers out of the wood on my shoulder. Would the arb truck of been any use in this situation or is it time I got some proper machinery?!
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Small mill for occasional use. Recomendations?
Johnpl315 replied to Lazurus's topic in Milling Forum
Blatant plug here. http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/milling-forum/92503-any-interest-my-mill-sale.html I started with an alaska mill but I very quickly got fed up, it's very slow, drinks fuel and oil, very high wear and tear on kit, back breaking, and massive amounts of vibration on your hands. Depends what you are after I guess, if you just want to make some planks for personal use an alaska is probably the most cost effective option. I still have mine but I dread using it! -
Hi guys, I have the opportunity to mill some londone plane. I know it's best quartersaw etc. Has anyone milled any and found a market for the green wood? Thanks
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I cut it to 3x3. I had quite a few lengths but I dunno where they all went. I think there's only four lengths each one about 5'6" long, probably been milled a couple of months I think I might actually have some 6x2 as well
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I do have some 4x4s, I will have a look tomorrow when I am up the yard.i just realised the holm oak is the bearers at the bottom of the stack!
