Kevm

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I only ever use "just the tip" saves bending over too much, fnah, fnah!

I think JB weld is the best of the "plastic metal" glues, used it on loads of things, never had a failure - yet.

If there is any chance there is water in the fuel use a Mr funnel - yes that's what it's called, amazingly simple bit of kit that works.

I pulled up some pics of a TS410 but can't see if it has a petrol pumping bulb or not, because my first thought would be it's not getting fuel up/into the carb and takes a while to pump it while you pull it over. Check the bulb is working or give it a squirt of easy start or brake cleaner in the air intake to see if it fires straight away

It's not like that 350, it seems to be a one piece plastic block with the two plastic adjusters sticking out.

I have a 2010 346 and adjusted the idle this morn and found it has crap plastic adjusters which have been chewed up by a previous owner. Can I remove that plastic block with the adjusters on and what is underneath? it would be nice if there were real steel adjustment screws underneath?

To have survived subsea for any time that rod would have to be 316 stainless which (I am guessing) was very rare during wartime and would only be used for something submerged subsea constantly, no point putting stainless components on an aero engine. My guess is it is nothing to do with the aero engine and it probably fell off a small fishing boat - part of a creel winch or something fishing related.

I think you are too trusting.

If it is easy to swing when on compression then maybe it needs a rebore, mine was like that when I got it. Now in cold weather it is hard to get enough speed to get it over TDC. Have you tried the oil in the inlet trick used by the kid in the earlier video. If you are not hearing any noise from the injector could be that at fault, but I would imagine it would be smoky when running if that was the case.

I have a Thwaites orline with the same engine, slightly different throttle setup. Here are a couple of pics of mine, pic 1 the pump is in the stopped position, pic 2 the little swinging block has been lifted up which allows the rack to move an extra 1/2" to the left to give excess fuel for starting, if it's not going into this position you will find it almost impossible to start from cold. As Deafhead says you should hear the injector creaking as it squirts fuel.

The oil should not be getting "bubbly" if there is a lot of entrapped air in the oil it will cause cavitation in the pump and damage it rapidly. You need to find where/how the air is getting mixed into the oil. It should not require bleeding, any air should get pushed out.

Is the electric pump running (going up) or can you hear a click when you press down, you need to make sure it is getting power. As mentioned there may be a manual valve you can undo to release the pressure to lower.

Don't use Hammershite, there are lots of better paints, listen to what Puffinbilly has to say, us Defender owners know about rust.

A suction filter is usually plastic or metal and if it gets blocked will cause damage to the pump, cavitation. Unless you have been really manky when topping up the oil then it should be ok, but the only way to check is drain all the oil, clean and refill being very careful to keep it clean.