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cornish wood burner

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Everything posted by cornish wood burner

  1. The cage is internal and keeps the rollers spaced and in place. Are we talking about a self aligning bearing? I presume you mean the grease is coming out between the outer race and the bearing housing which is at a larger diameter than the outside of the seal? If this is the case then your problem is a normal grease way blocked.
  2. I needed to remove a clump of 6 to 12 inch ash between the road and my garden fence. It would have been difficult to take the fence down so I cut the first two that were close to it to just over fence height, then used the stumps to bounce the rest over it. Had to avoid several of the wife's shrubs/trees in the garden. Bearing in mind it is not my profession and I only had a foot or so either side of my drop zone, it gave me a big grin to do it without any error or damage. Cut a lot bigger in the past but I think that series of fells comes top of my favourites list.
  3. Done a little research and assuming wikipedia etc are correct it looks like halfords pro used the earlier snap on design and the first couple of batches were made at the snap on factory. After that halfords sets were made elsewhere. By danaher I believe who started apex tools in partnership with another company. Apex now make halfords, so now no connection with snap on except the design assuming they still use it. If you have an early halfords pro set they it just might have been made by snap on, but not now.
  4. Mart. Going back to your original post are you sure that the grease is coming out of the seal? Often it comes out between bearing and housing. I was suprised at your post as skidding of bearings is a very complex subject and we are still learning about the mechanism of this. Lubricating the cage is very important so it is not only about the rollers. True, bearings need space to roll but in a heavily loaded high speed application I would expect excess to be ejected and the bearing to run normally after a short while. Dirt, vibration, speed, load, all shorten a bearings life so expect to change bearings even if they have been lubricated correctly. I dont think it is best practice to pump until grease comes past the seal but little and often is probably the way to go.
  5. Compressed air is a much lower pressure than a grease gun. Not sure what you would do with a jet wash more than wash off the outside surface contamination. The answer is to grease little and often from the start. By doing that you have the best chance of keeping the small grease ways clear. Strip and clean is probably a waste of time as if you have it apart best to put a new bearing in. The bearing housings in self aligning bearings normally wear so grease will escape from the low spots. I have come across replacement centres for these but I would not recommend using them for this reason. Not read all this post so apologies if I have repeated someone's advice.
  6. I have probably just under an acre that had waist high bracken and 6 ft of brambles a few years ago I wanted to control the weeds and plant saplings. I have bought an old Westwood ride on mower and cut about every 4 weeks. No sign of brambles or bracken now. If you keep it cut both get weaker as time goes on. Luckily my ground is fairly smooth so the ride on is quick and easy, but if you can cut regularly by some means then that should do what you want.
  7. No chance of a ten ton tipper load being delivered then? Bit far for you CP but if anyone is in the plymouth area I have some good contacts.
  8. So even more expensive. I am sure they have put the price down when the bags went lighter. I normally buy a lorry load in the region of £12 to £18 / tonne delivered depending on what material. Ideal if you have the space to store it, a hard surface to tip on and ideally a wall behind for loading.
  9. That was my first thought but I stopped short of telling him that. Might be interesting to do some research into that if anyone has the inclination.
  10. 1.75 is wet from the quarry. Builders bag is a very expensive way of buying aggregate but convenient for small quantities. Could be up to 3 times the price / tonne depending on your deal with the quarry. It is not a cubic metre as some think. Might have been a tonne at one stage but I believe it is now 900kg. No guarantee on that figure though.
  11. According to the halfords man, snap on make their socket sets for them. I don't know if that is right but I used my lads halfords set the other day and it does have that shiney snap on feel. Seems fine
  12. It is if you work in metres. If you want say 50mm depth then that is .05M Once you have the volume then for weight multiply by about 1.6 depending on what gravel you put down. Coarse sand is 1.75 tonnes per cubic metre Gravel I think a little less hence 1.6 but you could multiply volume by 1.7 to be safe
  13. Usual to buy logs by volume I guess but the same calc would look a lot worse by weight. I agree driving the water off is not a huge cost if burnt in a suitable appliance but how about in an older inefficient appliance?
  14. You new customer might have realised that he or she will get more heat (kWh) from 20% MC wood against the same volume of 30% MC. There is no point buying wood then burning it to boil off excess moisture. Better to source guaranteed dry wood and the way to accurately check that is with a calibrated moisture meter.
  15. So was I. Must be Cornish humour. Most of my wood is from a mature hedge and is full of knots. I have found even a 300 mm fork can be difficult with a maul which is why I bought my splitter. Not in the league of yours of course but it gets the job done. Beats using wedges or getting the saw out IMO.
  16. Or you could deliver them to the Cornish wood burner so he could split them with his small domestic electric splitter.
  17. So what would you do with all the difficult timber?
  18. Check with the meters Weigh the wood Dry the wood in the oven or slowly in the microwave Weigh again The weight loss is water so that is your percentage of moisture Weight loss/ original weight is %mc Some kitchen scales weigh to 1 or 2 grams so ideal and cheap
  19. Agree with that even more. How's the family I trust all went well when you returned.
  20. Its the base oil that does the lubrication so if you are heavily loading the grease or running at extreme temperatures and speed the oil will be shed quicker from its carrier. Once this happens then as you say Mart the remaining soap does not have the correct lub properties. Many years ago my collegues did have a damaging case of balls skidding in a gyro bearing but apparently that was down to the lub used being too slippery. That shows you need to use the correct grease for the bearing applied in the correct quantity at the correct interval, considering the loading and temperatures it will experience. I have always worked on little and often but the manufactures guidelines should of course be followed especially in high stressed situations. The other thing I have seen too many times is the grease gun put on the nipple without cleaning it first. Any grit etc present will then of course be pumped into the bearing
  21. Be warned that 7000 may be an average but I have known them crack at a lot less hours than that. Its a long time ago now but I think I had one go at a few thousand hrs, it had an easy life and was meticulously serviced. Most common failure is cold water returning from the rad hitting no 1 bore, but I have had them go at the bottom between two bores as well. Shame because it spoils an otherwise good tractor. We put engine oil in the diesel and that seems to work. Probably not so good as 2 stroke but cheaper and more readily available in our case.
  22. Not much compaction until the trailer moves. Biggest compaction we have found is in the shed when the telehandler pushes in and runs on the chip. I would guess we get up to an extra 25% weight / volume in the bottom half of the shed. Chip for our boiler is very close to 4 cube / tonne. Wet might be 2.5 as already said.
  23. Just a few hundred degrees will degrade the loctite.
  24. Spot on Codlasher. Get a stick welder from your local welding supplier, they will offer you advice and all the other bits that go with it. Inverter, around 180 amp from a known manufacturer should be OK.
  25. Only real problem I have come across is cracked blocks. Earnt me a lot of money in my agricultural engineering days. Core plugs at the back of the head and flywheel end sometimes go if it has not had its quota of antifreeze. Superior to the 35/135 to drive. I would say comparable to the MF240 which is a very good machine. However the 240 is more reliable in my experience. I would seriously consider the 240 if it was my money.

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