Bogoak

Why the need for elaboration, it's a statement of logic:confused1: A man shouldn't be labeled ' xenaphobe' just because others don't like hearing the truth.

There's nothing wrong with chemical free meadows: enjoy them:001_smile:

Huh: not bragging or anything, but here's mine:001_tt2: Found in my young plantation. They were all purchased as Quercus Robur:confused1:

On second thoughts, your English sounds worse than mine!

Apologies for any grammatical errors. I live in the real world! Clearly you have zero practical experience.

Ragwort and livestock aren't a good mix. Certainly in commercial agriculture, it would be considered poor husbandry to allow it to go rampant on grazing land. Just because animals aren't dropping like flies, doesn't mean that commercial performance isn't being effected by the occasional mouthful of Ragwort: it just isn't worth the risk. That said, there is a difference between intensive, and extensive grazing land: different management regimes can apply. As for the over/under grazing question, that can be rather subjective and dependant on your particular circumstances/ aims: in general though, close grazing maintains a good Sward. With regard to the use of agro-chemicals: I'm afraid they're the main reason why we're able to feed the world (at least we could if we wanted). And anyone who thinks farmers are using them willy nilly, is out of touch with the commercial realities of modern farming ( though granted; there may still be people out there with more money than sense ). Spot treatment with glyphosate is effective against Ragwort if done correctly. The use of a weed wipe can also be effective. Pulling can be hard work, and as mentioned, plant parts can be left behind. Cutting of developed flower heads is a good idea. If you have a flower rich meadow, then I certainly wouldn't want to use an overall herbicide. But, if it's full of Ragwort, Docks, and Thistles, then it might be the most appropriate action.

Some good advice here, thanks. "Been there, done that": it's good to hear first hand experiences. Cheers

Thanks for all the replies chaps.

I'm thinking of getting a chainsaw mill- all new setup. What width will an MS 660 comfortably cope with and at what point does it's bigger brother become a better option? I've got some 30"+ Poplar to have a go at but don't envisage finding much else of that size to saw. Although I don't want to be under gunned, there's no point in lugging weight I don't need. Any advice/ recommendations on choice of saws, bars and mills would be appreciated thanks.

Ok, thanks for that. Any advice on drying?

Has anyone milled Poplar with a chainsaw mill? If so, how did it go? I have quite a few 30" dia stems to fell and would like to try planking some.

I think you could be right. Looks like there is creosote residue.

That's quite nice. I would be a little concerned if I had small kids in the house though: if it fell/was pushed over:blushing:

Looks like Elm to me. Your Northerly location might have saved them but not all Elm trees get the disease.

But I wanted to see what happened at the end:confused1:

Yes but you might find there's nothing left. I just can't keep beech or sycamore and even oak suffers. By the time it's dry it's riddled with holes and only fit for firewood.

Matches, hmmm, that should keep me busy. Thanks:001_smile:

Has anyone had a go at milling Poplar? If so, how did it go? I've got some mature trees to fell. Is it any use for anything? I was thinking it might make workshop shelving or something. Thanks

Hi can I ask what you're sawing there? Looks an impressive rig.