Macpherson

Yeah, I first heard this When Humble pie covered it in 1971, then I heard Ashford and Simpsons original '66 version then Ray Charles, then John Scofield, and most recently ish John Mayer which finally 50 years later I decided that I had to try to learn the dam thing, which isn't coming that easy☺️ Google Search WWW.GOOGLE.COM

I agree with that, and the reason will be some arsehole agenda I believe in Scandinavia that there is an Alkylate pump at filling stations, but it's something I heard on here a long time ago so I don't know if this is still the case. I very much doubt if our backwards, corrupt, race to the bottom little island will ever adopt anything resembling common sense.

OK then , what would you do with a collection of classic cars for instance... run them all on Aspen ? My point I suppose is that saws are only a tiny percentage of engines that don't get used every day and need protecting from shyte fuel... ..and as an engine builder I've used fuel stabiliser to mitigate against the consequences of Ethanol in fuel since I first started to notice the damage it was causing around 15 years ago. I know that Alkylate fuel is a much superior option particularly from a fumes pov and I'd say that the world would be better place it was the only fuel option, but unfortunately it's not. So I'm sorry that your experience with stabiliser was negative but I won't be using Aspen in my greedy outboard anytime soon but it still needs protected and it's a lot more expensive in every way than any saw. Not looking for an argument, just passing on my experience of mitigating against the massive increase in engine damage since this crap was added to ordinary fuel which previously never caused any of these problems.

I get it that you're totally on the ball as regarding protecting your engines against the damage done by ordinary fuel, but as a life long engine repairer I absolutely know that fuel stabilisers protect fuel from phase separation or going off for usually longer than claimed by the manufacturers [ a number of years ] while also protecting against the failures you mention and more for very little cost. I understand that Alkylate fuel is a far better fuel, but it's cost would prevent it being used in may engine uses : Gennies, Classic vehicles, lawnmowers, outboards farm vehicles etc, so if you want to protect these type of machines from crap fuel stabilisers are the answer... petrol and diesel. I know it's an Arb forum but although they cost a lot of money, chainsaws are really quite cheap when compared nearly everything else petrol / diesel powered that's being damaged by crap fuel. Cheers.

Just my 2pence worth, but nearly all the carb problems that I see these days are the result of Ethanol in the fuel. It's just so damaging to so many different substances in so many different ways and has ruined countless engines around the globe, and is only really in the fuel so that our corrupt, stupid leaders can tick some crazy ' green ' box while they cut down nature in order to plant palm trees to satisfy this madness. To this end I've been using fuel stabiliser in all my small engines for at least 15 years.. with no probs, Fuel will stay fresh for years and it costs next to nothing... My 2 recommendations would be Ethanol shield and Briggs and Stratton ' fuel fit ' 👍 And btw if you find yourself forced to by a new carb you might as well buy it from China and wait a bit as it would seem that's where they're made... so under £20 delivered or + £100 at your main dealer. Bear in mind that an ultrasonic cleaner can often dissolve these blockages behind welsh plugs, but only with the right solvent... so to that end I usually place the carb body in a jam jar with far less solvent than filling the whole tub and then place it in the hot water of the US cleaner for a decent time.. ..make sure the lid is loose.... which solvent?.. tried many.. feck knows😁

I've already put up ' The bluest blues ' on here at least twice, so maybe I shouldn't post it again. 👍👍

Reminds me of Alvin..

Rick Beato I'd guess? For me Ernie Ball all the way, 9's on the strat, 10's on the tele and acoustically always EB's heavy bottom light top 10 / 52 with a plain 17 G. 👍

I've no idea, but if iirc it sold for 40K ish 35 years ago.. it was absolutely beautiful and great to ride. Really only worked on 2 Vinnies as in building the engines, that and a Comet. The bottom ends were probably the most beefy, bullet proof but simple that I ever saw.... although a lot of the gubbins was on the outside which I didn't really mind as it was accessible so serviceable. I also thought similar about the only Jota that I had in bits { but to a lesser extent } the quality of the engineering was cheaper as what went with the era, but still muckle compared to the 70's / 80's British equivalent... imo of course.... which I suppose would have been a delicate Norman Hyde Trident.

I did that in my teens, the 2T was a big performance boost but scary with bantam brakes.. First bikes at 14, Two 1949 C11g's for £6 10 shillings, a fortune back then😁 built one out of the two and used it to go to school well before being legal, parents didn't know and nobody ever asked. Best bike of that era was a 1976 Rickman chassis kit with a tuned t140v engine. Most fun 81' 440 Maico enduro. Probably the best / most memorable bike I rebuilt was an Egli Vincent with a Black Shadow engine 👍👍 Seems like someone else's life now, Cheers.

Common sense is extremely rare these days as I'm sure you're very aware of, to me it's very troubling just how stupid most folk are becoming, too stupid to even discuss current affairs with any intellect... Happily ' to some extent ' it would appear that many of the cancelled world's most eminent scientists seem to be being allowed to once again voice their opinion, although it would appear that the the damage is already done, and the latest generation have zero interest in logic, truth or feck all else of any value.

Hi Stubby, also known as a plumbers version of a crows foot spanner, very handy when nothing else gets in there.👍

Or if you were really stuck you could do this, but proper tyre lube makes it easier. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWd5vwUeYno

Hi, I can't comment on the hedge trimmer but my experience of Honda 4 stroke garden stuff is with the UMK450 e brushcutter which I'm very unimpressed with. It's heavy, slugish and and uses more fuel than my previous Tanaka and Kawasaki 2T 45cc strimmers... but the main problem with it is that it has zero ability for carb adjustment which any engine needs imo. Don't get me wrong, I have many things that run Honda GX engines but these latest garden machinery engines that can't be adjusted or tweaked are a complete pita and as well as that because of relative rarity there's very little advice or alternative spares available online. I've repaired engines for a living all my life, but " Honda power of dreams " would seem now to be feckin BS when it comes to their 4 stroke garden hand tools. Ok rant over, but as a quick search gives a price of around £650 for the HHH25 while you can get a Stihl HS45 for around £250 which will cut a bit more than 3/8" { I'm imperial 😁 }, why would you even consider it. Just my disappointed opinion, but if it doesn't have H and L adjustment screws on the carb... Don't buy it. Cheers

Got one of these... very nice saw👍

My AP300 batteries overheat and fade quite rapidly if getting used constantly as in blocking up firewood or going through a big trunk and when that happens, they won't charge until they've cooled. They get to a point where the power drops off noticeably and On the other hand, if just doing a garden type job where sporadic use never lets the batteries get hot they definitely last much longer ' in terms of how much cutting for 1 charge '. There's no doubt that in any electronic system overheating robs efficiency exponentially, and although I find the battery saw very convenient.... I used my Husky 154 for my last job, what a joy👍😁

Impressive collection .. do they all run?

Thanks, that helps me too, cheers.

Lyme disease is named after the town of Old Lyme in Connecticut USA which has the highest incidence of Lyme disease recorded [ reputedly ] It's the nearest town to Plum Island off the NE coast of America which after WW2 many German biological weapons scientists were relocated to when the war ended [ allegedly ] much like Wernher von Braun and his band of rocket scientists who were given a free pass to the USA. Fairly easy to research for anyone who wants to look, although difficult to deep dive.... Just food for thought.

I've had many ticks over the years as have my dogs, I have a reasonably bad reaction to them, usually a very itchy lump about the size of 1/2 a golf ball which can take around a month to completely subside. Probably more than 10 years ago after a particularly bad reaction to a tick just above my c*ck I went to a busy multiple GP practice in the NW of Glasgow and asked for a Lyme test.... I was surprised to find out that they had never done this before and I knew far more about Lyme than the experienced GP did although this practice is less than 1/2 a mile from a wild park which deer inhabit. When I asked where they would send my blood to be tested The GP didn't know, although I had already done my own research and had found that German labs had the best results as the OP mentioned.. but mine sample was sent to somewhere in Ayrshire and came back negative.. I'm not surprised by any of this as the deeper I dig the more ignorance I discover. I spend most of my time in the NW Highlands where we are inundated with tourists from all around the world, and I've often wondered how many of them go home after a short holiday and a lot of masking of other insects by midgie bites to find that after a while they have an undiagnosed life changing illness where no one can join the dots.

Yep 14", but it's not a big cost to have both.

Yep, being 5 years ago I'd have to guess that the 1st post of part numbers was from researching the possibility online and the 2nd post in December is what I actually bought from my local Stihl dealer, I've just checked the bar and it's 1.3 mm [ 3005 000 4809 ]. If you have one of these saws and your running the shitty wee PM chain I'd guess that you'd be blown away by the difference from swapping out everything, I think from memory about £68. I started with Stihl full chiz 3/8" which I run on most of my saws, and I know you're thinking ' that'll hurt the battery' but it doesn't as it cuts much quicker and may actually do more work per charge. Also with the bigger chain the sprocket is of a larger diameter although with fewer teeth as the bigger chain won't go round such a small radius and the knock on effect of this is a higher chain speed, or gearing up. I know from the Stihl rep who was on here a bit back that the msa 220 has a slightly more powerful motor but that doesn't stop this mod to the msa 200 being a great improvement. Currently I'm using Panther full chiz 3/8" chain from Chainsawbars and I've gotta say that it's on par with Stihl performance wise but much cheaper and from memory about 1.5mm more tooth, so after a year of using I'll give Panther chain 5 stars👍

Jeez, 5 years on.. yep it totally transformed the saw into what you expect👍

While I take your point that it may be diluted as if left in a bucket it will thicken .. it's always going evaporate as that's how it dries, personally I use the stuff pictured and at £200 ish for 20 gallons it is the real stuff ... I recon it's the bollocks compered to everything else that I've found for sale for a long time.. The fact is that it's not super thin , but it's an ideal viscosity for dipping really dry wood and letting soak in, anything really that you want to preserve outside but don't need to touch. I don't use it on a hot day as I did that once 40 years ago, and I don't fancy spraying it one tiny bit.

Yup, as someone who receives a pension I totally agree with that.