PeakOakFrames

White spirit is great at removing larch/Doug fir resin from tools, hands and timber in the framing yard. Something to do with it being synthetic turpentine which is itself distilled pine sap? Could experiment with it so long as it won't damage any other components such as sealed bearings or belts etc.

I've got a spare 1.5" and 2" Taylor set kicking around. Over ordered from the factory which is just down the road. Having the 2" has pretty much made my no.4 plane redundant in the framing workshop. I remember taking a trip to Wells Trading when I was an apprentice working on the Camery Garden building at the cathedral, I think I got my battered no.078 rebate plane there for £7 or something. Worth the trip but it's a bit far from Sheffield!

Slates are also tapered. The pitch of the roof should mean tht the slate/shingle/shake only touch on the batten and on the tip of the slate. This gives the slate spring and helps prevent wind driven rain from pushing under the slate. This is why there is a minimum pitch for roofing materials. If this pitch is exceeded you can end up with a scenario where the slate/tile/shingle is actually lower at the top than the tip and the water runs into the roof. There are several types of shake. Some are machine made, some only sawn on one face some hand split on both. OP: Coyle Timber in Bath stock both shingles and shakes. Might be worth giving them a call.

Been framing for a decade now. You should be able to do just about everything with 38mm (1 1/2") chisel. I'm not a tool geek. I've got a 38mm and 50mm Henry Taylor socketed firmer chisels and a 19mm, 25mm and 28mm Irwin split proof orange handle chisels. I also have but never use 1/2" lidl wooden handled chisel and a socketed corner chisel. You could also do with a no4 plane and a no78 rebate plane (handy for planing close to tenon shoulders. For the record a slick is mainly a boat building tool, the sorby ones are not very good as they haven't got a cranked socket so are really just a oversize chisel. A proper slick should have the socket cranked so the handle is clear of the timber and you can smooth along for the full length of the timber not just the length of the blade. Some framers use them, I never got on with them and found a 50mm just as useful and on scarf joints my no4 plane does just fine with the edges of the iron rounded off like a scrub plane.

Have you checked the bearings? if they are worn you could be getting excessive play in the band wheels when they are under load. Also check to see there is no build-up of sap/compacted sawdust on the wheels that could be throwing them out of balance and popping the band off the wheels.

Inside is no different.

No legal restrictions of taking photographs in a public space what so ever. Other laws like lewd behaviour in public place and indecent exposure etc still apply. If the car was parked on a public road then a photo can be taken of the car or it's contents, for that matter even if the car is on private property but the photographer is on public property (a public footpath for instance) then there is no breach of the law. There is no legal right to expectation of privacy. Madonna tried to have a public footpath that overlooked her mansion closed because papz were using it to take photos, got thrown out of court because of the above. I think she ended up with a wapping great hedge instead. Again the parents had no right to take the photographer to the police and the police would need a warrant to view the photos unless they were volunteered which would be quite difficult to prove probable cause. It's not against the law unless there is a bye-law regarding photography on the beach in question. If you don't want photos taking become a recluse. How many CCTV cameras covered the beach and immediate areas? A peado would be better off becoming a CCTV operator and cracking one off in the office than risking photoing kids out on a public beach surrounded by a few hundred parents, unless it's a double bluff, can;t trust any one these days you know.

Looks like there might be a fair chunk of metal somewhere near the heart from the bluing on the butt.

Also I don't rate the Sorby or Neeman slicks. They don't have enough/any crank on the socket thus rendering them pretty much useless as slicks and are just 3" chisels with big handles. TBH the Neeman tools that I have seen and a friend bought are massively over rated, don't hold a good edge and cost a flipping bomb, oh and the mallets they sell disintegrate under mild use. The Barr's are nice but can be difficult to source. The Taylor's and Sorby's are easy to get a hold of and reasonably priced. My Taylors hold an edge better that my Sorby but they are slightly more difficult to get the edge on in the first place.

On another note why have you got 8" deep mortices?

Sorby or Henry Tailors. I have both and use both. Got a spare 1.5" and 2" Taylor framing chisels in the workshop.

All our stuff is cut to order. I believe it's all French and Belgian boules brought over and milled here. Sawn to garde but no paperwork as it's an extra cost that we only use if our engineer specifies it. If I was to order direct from France I could get it cheaper and wouldn't have to pay the VAT (inter European trade thingy). But I have a good relationship with my mill and that is a price that isn't too far off the French prices once you take in to account the cost of delivery and allow for the convenience factor of have a mill that is relatively local that should I need to I can drive to to pick up replacement stock. The beams from French grown stock are much better and more consistent quality than anything I've ever seen from English stock. I guess that's what happens when you have well managed forests generation after generation. Hopefully we can get our stocks recovered by the time my kids are grandparents. Big J, no wonder all the framers I know of in Scotland order from the same mill as I use. I grew up in Penicuik and I don't recall seeing many oak tree plantations.

I pay £17.50/ft3 for standard THB framing grade and £25/ft3 for best THA grade +VAT so I'd be expecting to pay around the £150 +VAT mark. You should be able to get more like Big J said especially to a local builder or private customer.

Looks like it might have tapped holes on the front allowing you to fit a rail and make a tennoning jig/sliding table. Looks a bloody good machine for the price it is at the moment. Buy new drive belts if you get it. If the main bearing is that tired then I would suspect the belts will be too.

£20/m2 is a bit low Probably more in the £28-35/m bracket. It all depends on your board widths and quality, wider prime quality boards will be more expensive than narrower 'character' grade boards. Beech is tough so is Birch and Ash. Ash is less liable to move or split. Douglas fir makes nice floor boards but they are a bit hard to source in the UK. I would love to put them in our place but I'm not paying the premium for the uber fashionable Dinesen ones from Denmark. It also moves very little in service as opposed to oak or beech.