countrryboy

Don't mean to be negative but i would agree will be most likely a complete waste of time and money. If it actually made a difference they wouldn't be letting u do it. When u can have a survey with 87% off respondents against it but then just ignore it and carry on with the new law anyway (new airgun law) Bottom line is they already know wot they want to do and i doubt anything will change there minds, and certainly not people who know wot there talking about or actually live and work with the mess they create.

While i do know some horsey folk are against barb, i would say the vast majority don't really seem to bother. Have put barb on plenty of horse fences as per customers spec yet others won't have it any where near they're horses. Never understood how some are so aggainst it yet others dinae seem to bother Aye horses can be a bugger for chewing rails but u used to put some of that flat metal strapping/binding or wire along the top off the rails to try and stop it. Electric is brillaint for a lot of things but doubt it will be vaible for 25m unless eleccy fencing elsewhere on the farm. Prob best to phone a local contractor and explain the craic and get a guesstimate price over the phone

Bloody need to be with all the creepy crawly things out there that will bite u. Would not fancy working in arb or forestry out there. Have u had any near misses with anything with fangs(or claws)? I got bit by a suspected white tailed spider while working in sydney (down towards botany bay) on a building site, travelling up and down a stair lift thingy to a new house on the waterfront that had vegatation growing right into it. It infected my leg fairly badly, althou infairness i never went to doc until i was having trouble walking, flared up again and i passed out at work as i never finished my anti boitics as went on the bevy:blushing: Doh seen plenty of red backs further north but only seen a couple of funnel webs, evil looking buggers

Nowadays ur looking at 5ish quid a meter but as job is so small expect to pay a lot more, prob a 1/4=1/3 of a day job()which as usual would prob waste mosyt of a 1/2 day Most of the work is in putting strainers and stays in and tieing of net, wouldn't take much longer to do 100m really Would guess most fencers would use post and rail for the short 4-5m part, also some poeple don't like barb with horses, think it rips there skin?

Aye on most commercial soft wood jobs the wagon drivers usually (or used to anyway) have a box or something they would put all the weigh bridge tickets in from the sawmills and the contractor will get paid by the tonnage and keep track of the loads. It may have changed but that is how it used to be, can mind a few bosses moaning in the old days (pre bio fuel power stations) when sitting with thousands of tonnes of chip and pulp drying out at roadside on each job. 1 job about 20 odd mile in used to get shut down oct to save the tracks, when the wood was fresh cut only taking a 3/4 looad to make the wieght on wagons but when opened up after the winter the wagons were loaded to gunnels and greedy pins on full extension and still not making max wieght. Think i thoose days harvester/forwrder drivers were paid by wieght rather than m3 as would pay them for the fresh cut wieght but selling at dried wieght, so double whammy for bosses

U may be right about quality to some extent, but as said above the harvesters are running 24/7/365 if they could, be a lot of timber cut throu the summer so must be some use. Sometimes they are slightly quieter throu the summer but really depends on the timber markets, think the biggest thing that the contractors dislike about the summer is timber will quickly dry out at roadside if sitting for any length of time

Aye would expect him to be cutting for a skyline, dread to think some of the things i used to get up to when cutting for skylines, trainers and H&S boys would have nightmares Amazing how much u can knock over in a day, seen with small stuff having 1 or even 2 falling as ur cutting the next ansd thats without running about (but trees are only 2m apart) Aquatoo? big difference between 'bombing' a tree and 'dominoing' them both are very dangerous and a big job to fix if it does not work as expected, there is a very good reason why ur not meant to do it.Been there and got t shirt when i was younger and dafter

Glad everyone enjoyed it, nice weather for it and midges havenae really started yet. I mind sitting on the oppisate side of that valley watching 2 tigercats romp throu the wood oppisate(probably a job just south of the exhibition site) we were over below where the windmills are now. Operator i was cuting for had a medium sized Valmet harvester and was getting sevre tangs of jealosy Surprised u got some good timber the oppisate side of valley is poor and further east into the tweed vally pretty poor too The harvester heads have came on massively in 8 odd year hardy need a cutter now, lot less boundry brash and missed rows/ditches done now.

Bit of a silly question. But did u learn/see much at the show? If ur in the game have u not seen it all before? I've cut in front of most colours of harvester and they all seem to do the same anyway, (althou personally not really into machines) if u've seen harvester seen them all (good operator impresses me more) some have strong/weak points at various things so generally.a swings and roundabouts choice Was the timber good enough to see machines at their best? Generally a lot of poor timber in that area. Was past it on thrus seemed to be a few cars there

Aye i was shocked last time i was over (2yrs ago) how dear things had got. Scary how quickly prices have risen since the first time about 7 years afore. Food drink and beer are quite dear now when the first itme i was out everything was cheap as chips. And it wasn't just the ifference in exchange rate

Must admit nver looked at chainsaw gear but outdoor gear in general is mega dear. Any decent waterproofs are sillly money even the NZ brands. Ging why german in Sth Isle? Apart from in Queenstown backpacker scene never met a german over there. I've spent a bit of time there and never even heard of many german immigrants lots of Jocks, like a home frae home over there, scenery is very similar

Afraid can't help u on the chip front. Althou if u can have a big fire saves a lot of hassle and chipping amazing wot u can burn in a day.Esp if u had a tractor/grab in moving the brash, lot of hand ball/chipping 100 trees But is the timber worth milling? Got a couple of similar sized ones. Would only be for personal use as doing upa house and might bee nice to have something different. Is it worth the hassle, already logged a few but never paid any attention to grain or colour really

Must admit i'm with biggar logs here i would of thought about 25ish quid per m as a min but shouldnae be far away at that, and that's using 4x4x8'6" or 9' posts Best to phone some local fencers(or sawmills to get a price for timber) for a price as seem's to be fairly varible depending on where u are Fairly easy to guesstimate the timber post's every 1.8m 3x rails @3.6m and boards depending on ur size ie 5" boards 1" overlap so board every 4" or 100mm

We thought we were getting around 25 to 30 ish on Honda's was a 420 but now on a 500. And that is not working them hard towing. I did do 93km the other day at work thou on about 3/4 tank never measured wot it took to fill it thou. Most days about £7-10 quidish but most days will be doing 50 odd km

It's a great country, (althou gettin dearer the last time i was out) I would check with customs/DOC out there i would imagine not very keen on u taking any climbing gear out unless severely disenfected etc and even then they probably not accept ropes/harnesses. Others on here might be able to give u more info but i would defo look into it first as very strict on bio-security, and rightly so. Wish we were half as strict in this country might not have half the diseases now cuasing major problems If i was younger would off immigrated loved it out there u'll have a ball.

Each to there own, i have yet to see a fence that has failed because off rot in the stay posts. If ur fence has stood long enough for the stay/strainer to rot there is a very good chance the posts will already be snapping at ground level esp with modern treatment of undried timber If u've morticed it right on the right side off the post it should not turn or be knocked out even without a nail, i almost never nail 1, i would not have the same confidence for a chainsaw cut 1.

But how long does it take to tighten all thoose bolts on the clamps? Most metal 1's it's 2 or 3 bolts and usually with a captive nut welded 1 side and a bar welded on the other so u don't need any spanners If u fixed 3 pieces of re-bar to them (2 on 1 side 1 in middle of other)might get away with fewer bolts Far better to buy a proper set of pullers than those things, there absolutely useless for anything other than occasional use

Gripples are great pieceof kit for patching fences or snapped wires, Would never use them on a permanent new fence thou, either for joining net or for tensioning it. I used to call that type of strainer a NZ strainer (dunno why?) very rarely use them. There is an estate further north than me where i sometimes plant and the fencer has his stays literally 6 inch (possibly too low in my opinion) of the deck and his fences are as tight as hell. And it must work as u can see his older fences are still holding as good as when they we're new Loke others have rightly said real easy to make a home made clamp but really need bars or big beads of welding to slightly kink/bend wire so it really grips

Cheers folks Stubby do u just ring bark and leave u haven't been boring any cavities in the stems? Treeser thats brillaint, been trying to think how to make cavities for birds for a while but that sounds like it should work and look quite natural, never really like bird boxes hanging on trees. For the bats think they can cope with small straight line holes/crevices so wil probably just bore in and move the bar point about inside the tree

Alright folks (Not sure if this is in the right bit so feel free to move it admin) Long story short, just been lucky enough to buy a ruin in the country side with a bit of woodland with it (mainly mature/semi mature sycamore) To do the house up i unfortunately have to go throu local planning dept who will insist on a bat survey, quite a few bats flying about already but i think (hope) my roof is clear, which has amazed me (think the rot, damp and poor condition of timber has scared them off ) I'm thinking of pre -empting wot they say and putting a load of boxes up so hopefully won't slow up taking replacing the roof. Are the rules still the same that when a used bat box is put up tree is then protected for rest of the bat boxes life? There is a hv (11kv?) power line running nearby, could i put bat boxes on thoose trees near to it, as being near to it i will never be felling them. Or does that restrict the power/utility climbers when they come to side them up every few years? I'm hoping to over time fell a lot of the sycamore out and replace with other trees, and possibly pollard and ring bark a few to leave as standing dead wood. I'm i best to do as much off that now before i put any bat boxes up on them? Would pollarding be a controled? operation on a tree already with a used bat box Finally when i first started climbing a good few years ago i started going along to local bat group for a while, at the time another climber was experimenting with creating cavities in the trees by boring in and shouggling saw tip about inside while leaving a small entry. Does/has anyone done this or does anyone know if it works and bats will live in it. Have had a search throu here as well as googling bat stuff but not seen any mention of anything like that. Cheers hope that makes sense to u and sorry for long post

I have seen a boy just using 2 bits of timber with 3 big bolts throu them. I welded my own 1, bit ruff and ready but does the job. To be honest i used to fence with a fella that never used a clamp, just pulled top and bottom wires and straightened out the vertical wires, he fenced that way for best part of 30 years, mind we he first bought a clamp, said he wished he bought it years ago. But u can do with out them, all depends on the distances ur pulling, he never had a tractor so everthing was hand balled so u weren't doing massive distances in a day if ur pulling big lengths in a oner 2 clamps with long chains is a good way to go. But a drivall or Hayes may be dearer but will last for life Does a company still make them with the wedges? Only used the ones that u bolt on

Seems a very strange 1. Espthe time delay etc Almost sounds like there wanting an excuse to get rid of u. Sure u've not been meeting bosses wife/daughter after hours:biggrin: Is it just his word against ur's? How can they prove wot blade u finished deer off with? I would get proper legal advice, i know nothing about employment law. Also check the proper wording for knife laws and possibly can't remeber if 1981 wildlife & countryside act or a different animal welfare act the PTS's a deer would come under If ur a climber or cutter really no issue with having a knife on u, or a machete for that matter as u have 'reasonable excuse' part of ur safety gear for a climber. By law u can pretty much carry a 3" blade folding knife anywhere whithout needing an excuse but when u get into lock blades or solid blades or over 3" u need to be abe to justify it and why u have it. As for the deer there is a lot of greyish areas about PTSing a deer esp in general public standing about. I would do and have done many times, exactly wot u did. While it is fairly easy to bleed a deer out that way also easy to get it wrong and not to kill it as quick as u would like, esp if u don't know wot ur doing. The grey areas come in wether they can argue u caused the deer more suffering by ur actions, but strictly speaking u are also obliged to put an animal out off its misery if u are able too. If ur a shooter might be worth contacting BASC or wotever org ur with, while be no help on the employment side could telll u the relevant laws to do with knifes and deer Good luck with it, i'd just get the lawers on it thou Ps if u took the deer technically theft and if ur motor hit it can technically be done with poaching, bizare i know. Deer carcass belongs to whoevers gound it is lying on,(ie council if round or adjoining landowner/shooting/stalking tennent)

I wish i put this question up 3 days ago, :lol:had 3 douglaus firs climbed and preped for knocking the tops off but needed some extra help to rig and lower them. Knocked the 3 over full hieght tonite in no time, left a bit of polyprop up so could pull my rope over and tifor'd them down. Landed exactly where i thought and where the method said too. Without going into deep maths and protarctors etc, if ur stick is same length as ur arm then that gives u 2 sides of the equal length on a 90 degree small triangle, so meaning the big triangle ie tree hieght (vertical) and the distance to u (horizontal) should also be equal length. A few of the later replies have confused me a wee bit, but i'm over the moon with the stick method as u can never forget it and confident it works. Up till now i have alo just guesstimated how many men(6ft) or a smaller tree as more accurate on smaller trees and its worked fine But when u get u to 50-60ft u only have to be a man or 2 out and ur 12ft out, couple off the trees have been pushing 100ft and a few of the big 1's will have been over it (ran out of climbing rope on 1) and the space has been quite tight. Cheers again folks, must admit when i was a kid sure it was only a 8-10 inch stick and u had to add ur hieght but very happy with the biger stick approach, nice and simle and it works

Cheers folks, thats brilliant. I knew i wasn't too far away but just couldn't mind the finer detail. I figuered it must be a right angle triangle thing but just didn't know if the size of the stick would of affected it or wot size it was meant to be. Must admit my memory is pretty hazy but i can't remember the stick being as long as mentioned above, but it was a long time ago and my brain has been pickled in the meantime Cheers agian, an;t wait to go out and try it now:001_smile:

Alright folks, bit of a strange 1 for u. Was just wondering if there is an easy way or how everbody estimates the hieghts of their trees before felling. Been a bit closer (althou not majorly close) to a couple of things than i thought i would've been recently, luckily i'm quite belt and braces so had the extra clearance, thank god. When i was a boy, scouts i think (or possibly school?) they had a method for measuring the hieght. Bit hazy on it now but i think u held a twig upright in ur hand, with ur arm oustreched and then walked backwards until the top of tree was inline with the top of the twig. U them paced it back to get the hieght (+ 4ft or hieght of arm of ground) I'm guessing now it must be some sort of Pythagorus? therum, right angle triangles etc, but my school days/triganometry are a long distant memory. Does anyone know wot i'm talking about or does it make sense? And does the length of stick u hold up matter? Cheers in advance