countrryboy

Alright Apologies, This may be a bit of a silly question, but do most sheer pins fit other winches? Looking to buy a 'tirfor' style winch and after reading plenty of threads on here had decideed which 1 to buy, The Ace 1600 but unfortunately slod out and be weeks before back in. (Can only seem to find 1 selller, secure fix direct) I found a company selling Able style 'tirfor's' but does not sell shear pins for it and didn't know where i could get them? Seemingly never been asked for them. I ended up cancelling it as didn't see point in having a winch and not knowing where/if i can bet sheer pins for it. Is anyone familr with Able winches and know where u can get sheer pins for them? Cheers

Therer is already 1 tree resting on top of the roof, luckily a large overhanging limb has stopped the tree before it heaved too much and the trunk came down. If these other trees came down they would be doing some damage, not a chance i'm willing to take I will top/pollard some of the trees further back but they pobably would be better of down anyway. Will take photos but doubt they would not be over 5 cube in weight anyway. My mate is tree surveyor so i might get him up some time but i know he's working flat out and long hours the now so don't want to bother him too much Cheers for the advice

I would check my advice is legal first, but it is wot i would do. Would it be possible to knock the bigger semi mature tree over first so they cannot put a tpo on them, without a felling licence then either wait 3 months to knock the rest down or apply for a Felling licence. I would imagine take an awful lot of small trees to make up to the felling licence threshold

Cheers folks, put my mind at rest afore i get busy with saw. Looked into the Felling licence, seemingly an exemption if tree dangerous or causing a nuisence so should be exempt.

Cheers folks. Wot type/make or where is the best place to get the part? I got the last 1 of ebay althou throu a large garden type shop, think was something like 20 quid, but only lasted 20 mins. At the time my local saw shop was quoting 60-70 quid for the part. Obvously a big difference but i would rather pay the extra if the part was better and more reliable, and was also worried there was another fault causing this so new part would just go but that seems not to be the case

Alright Got a cracking old 254xp in the shed, but not been going for a good few years now, orignally when it got worm it would cut out and not start again till cold then do same again. I was told this was a commonish problem with them, go a new coil it started 3 pulls after never been started for a long time, for 20 mmins ran like a dream (fortgot just how good they are)then same again. The coil i replaced it with was not an original husky part and had an external earth? wire/connection missing, i was assured the right part by supllier (and persumed earth was now internally wired) Does anyone know if u can still get genuine husky coils? Is there anything that causes the coil to go? If i got another coil would the same thing happpen again? Cheers folks, really could do with a spare back up saw again and to be honest i prefer that saw t any of my modern 1's

Must admit i never think paint and timber is a very good thing, doesn't let the timber breathe, treating with something may be better althou not fit into the rest of the porch. Possibly u could get them treated at a small estate/private sawmill and get them pressure treated with there posts. A few of the local sawmills would all do custom treatment like that if fits in there tanks. U could then paint them after wards Makes sense wot u say about having them upside down althou it may look funny on ur eye until u got used to them

There quite nice, do u treat the stems after peeling? Or just dry then paint

Alright folks Now i realise it will be quite hard to answer with out the full picture. But basically there is a steepish banking immediately behind a house/office that is on a plot i am buying. This banking contains possibly 20ish trees (not really big mibee 18-24" girth's at base, cyprees and sycamore prob 30ish year old) some are mildly leaning over the house an other is partially blown and limbs resting on roof (no damage) I will need to take a few down to create some room and 4-6 i would say are a danger to the property. As banking/rooting is not the best/most stable. The planning has lasped at the minute but i will be reapplying. To my mind i would be better fellling the whole banking it's only 20 trees (out of an 8 acres site of hardwoods) and am wary of taking some and leaving others as they will not be as wind resistant as the ones i'm taking down and don't want to shift the problem eslewhere I can top/pollard some of the other trees to make them a bit more stable and less top heavy. Basically i'm asking are u allowed to be protect ur property and fell any trees that i think may be a problem. Happy to replant with more suitable species ie thorns/shrubby type trees and will be planting plenty of extra trees about the site to improve the habitat, but i know planners can be funny about u felling to many trees and don't want to jepordise any future planning Cheers for any advice and hope that makes sense

Possibly i've picked this up wrong as no one else has mentioned it, but are u expected to pay for an ecologists report just to PRICE the job. So u may not even get the job or other arb companies may also have to have their own reports done to price the job. ON the bat subject, u have to be so carefull wot ur doing, i used to go along to the local bat group meetings, they live in a different world, no idea of reality esp. ! farmer phoned up after cutting a tree down and finding a bat, they wanted tothrow the book at him, i told them to get a life and had a big fallout with them Generally dangerous or dead trees are the most likely to actually have potential for a bat roost

Ur as well finding a local molecatcher if u can't catch them urself. They do get wise to the traps if u set them badly and become really hard to catch. But u definately can catch a few and get on top of them numbers wise, if u want to. I wouldn't advise using a rodenator, strictly speaking the moles have to be killed before u use 1 only licensed to implode the tunnels not kill anything. All they do is create lots of soft soil for next mole to dig throu

Spot on cheers everyone I will have a go with the axe next season. At minute been putting back cut horizontally in stead off diagonally, i'm sure i tried diagionally and there was a reason i changed but do tend to make it up on a tree to tree basis Do u tidy the butt up, ie cut the sloping angle off/square it up rather than leave it sticking so pround. Alycidon i have already planted a load and have a sunhouse full off Laurel and Rhodedrums (sorry for planting non natives/invasives) cuttings ready to get planted out. I was surprised the owner gave me permission to plant rhodey's considering there is grants to remove them, but i think the ground is so acidic/wet in places it is about the only plant that will grow albeit not at it's usual fast rate. But i will just keep them under control. Also heading up with a mini digger to try and turn over some small patches to put some cover crop in, mixture of Reed Canary, Fodder radish and Mustard, tried reed canary before unsucsefully, didn't have a decent enough seed bed amoung other reasons Cheers again

Cheers so far, keep any ideas coming I generally leave plenty of meat so it is a struggle to pull tree over, some could be 30odd feet but not usually heavy, i can usually control them falling fairly gentally by either leaving plenty meat in the cut or fell slightly towards another tree so it sort of glances down the side and u really have to pull/wiggle it down. Problem not so much with the tree's falling to quick just the butt's look ugly and wondering if a better way. Looks fairly tidy the first way (with big gub) but think the bark/cadbium can't strech enough to let trunk onto ground, as even when pushing stem down slowly u can see it ripping where it is most streched I have been leaving a lot more meat on the tree than wot was in ur photo of that hawthorn I am also coppicing some so not a disaster if they snap off just trying a bit off a short cut to warm wood up. I actually have planted quite a few willow cuts over the past few years, been a disaster, had a very poor succes rate with them growing, the 2 or 3 main areas are very peaty/acidic and even sitka is severly stunted and only 6ft tall after 30 odd years. Must be about the only ground in uk that cannae get willow to grow. Althou grows in plenty off other places just not where i wanted it cheers again

Alright, this is my first post so hopefully i've put it in the right place. I'm looking for a bit of advice for the best way to 'lay' folding some bigger than averag timber, mainly willow or birch anything up to 12"+ dia butt's. I realise it's the wrong time off year now but thought i'd post will i remember. Basically i run a small shoot and am sort of coppicing and felling some areas of woodland to let more light in and get some ground veg growing. I have for a few years been sort of laying a few trees, the idea being to get the tree branches to grow vertically like windblown trees often do, to create some instant cover and a wind break. It sort of works but some of my cuts look really untidy, is there a proper technique for doing this? It doesn't have to look great as long as it works At the minute the 2 sort off make it up as go along cuts have been 1 The tidiest 1 i have been doing is to cut a big open 'gub' sort of 90+ degree well through with no back cut, the tree so ideally it falls and gub is still slighlty open when tree touches ground. Works well with small stuff or leaning but if tree is very straight the far side of bark struggles to strech enough and sometimes rips. Would waiting till sap rising help as tree suppler? 2 The second cut i use works fairly well but looks horrendous, i simply put a back cut in with no gub and pull the tree over and down usually splittin and 'barbers chair'ing it. It generally leaves plenty attatched but just looks bad but does seem to work better on bigger stuff I have some smallish sitka to fell at a flushing point also, is there any way to 'lay' them to keep them green for flushing cover. Otherwise they will just be getting felled and make brash wigwam's but live trees would be beter Cheers for any advice, like i said it's not like laying a hedge just odd trees here and there to try and make a makeshift hedge/windbreak