Tony Knight

Loler?

I'll take your word for it, I don't know how to distinguish the difference from here. Cheers, Tony

I think I set my hitch to compact and tight (close to the HH). I'd say the extra length may allow it to break a little more easily. I have a removal today and may crack out the HH for it. Nice pics Adam. Regards Tony

Don't use mine unless spiking a reasonable barrel. Agree with most of the comments. I too use a choked climb line as a BU below my lanyard/FL Good pics, that's some good chunks from a 200T. Cheers, Tony

I'd be interested to know the issues were?

Yep, that's how I found it Dan, thus mucking around with a pulley. I started by using a Fixie and found it tendered a little better, I went to a Pinto for the becket as I was playing with DRT change over (just clip your tip into the becket and off you go, thought it easier to remove and maybe better than setting a RADS up. Honestly I have not used it enough to work the pos's and neg's out. Some guys around don't have any probs with the HH tending and one fella's apparently got it self tending some of the time on 8mm HRC, maybe I just need to spend the time to consciously get it dialed in? Cheers, Tony

Your correct OMT, by not having the loop on the Oxan the friction would make tending/advancing more difficult. VT/Knut and Schwabisch all do well, the variations are limitless with rope/hitchcord and friction hitches. You may find that the BL doesn't set as reliably when new using the Knut or Schwabisch when the cord is new. For me the VT was best until the cord loosened up somewhat, now all three hitches set well. My issue is I don't climb full time, and when I do usually us the wrench, I am keen when I get a day to climb for a day on the HH and get it dialed in better. The first pic is when it was new and shiny. The second is something I was playing with last time I put it down to assist in tending and RADS. Cheers Tony

Not sure, I wonder if the orientation on the bridge/ring/swivel could be a problem when loaded due to the long flat bearing surface? The attachment to the SJ would be good though!

Yeah Ben, see it exactly the same way now. I'm going to see whether the larger DMM swivel will pass over the locking gate on a Aero. If it does and its not to bulky I'll replace the small one giving back a swivel on my bridge. Cheers Tony

I have used the 10mm OP on Tachyon and have just started using 10mm AP on Vortex (SRT with a wrench). I am really liking the Vortex AP combo.

Good point.

That's the trade off for being able to vary hitch lengths easily and is better economics. Make sure the flat side of the fishermans are up against the HC or RW tether, that'll make the knot as compact as possible. Or use a DMM Aero HMS (or ISC) to allow more room, only draw back is you can't invert it when connected to make easy attachment to your bridge and or small swivel. I recently changed from an Ultra O to an Aero using a tied 10 OP prusik with a dual leg RW tether, its still got enough room to easily get my bridge ring on and off at any time, just cant get my small swivel over the biner twist lock but the Treemotion ring goes no probs. Other alternatives (beside purchasing i2i pre made prusiks) is to either learn to splice or purchase a stitching machine (I'm told $10,000 aus plus), or as a fella in the states does stitch by hand. You'll get use to the fishermans.

Here's the HC set up clip. Instead of stitched or spliced eyes, tie fishermans on either end of the cord forming the loops for the biner. Regards, Tony [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ydt-hUT6aGE]Hitch Climber Set-Up - YouTube[/ame]

Sorry, try this one. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tds6xbBsyYM]Rate My Hinge - YouTube[/ame]

Some neat work. I wanted to have a play with the vid editor and knock this up. radiata 75ft 22" DBH felled up a cow track. Taped hinge to offset the bias. Regards, Tony

Cut proof trousers offer protection to more than just limbs, you nick a femoral artery and bleeding out before assistance arrives is a real possibility. Worth every penny (and then some more).

Reinforcing whats already said, cut smaller, standard back release, open scarf, sharp chain moving quick, wing cuts at hinge, choked lanyard tie in. radiata IMO

Depends on who and where you buy it from. Beware that some employers want ASNZI (aus/NZ certification) on gear. Cheers Tony

I had one of these sent from the UK, strong, zippers YKK (mines packed tight and no tears) handles short duration saturating, cheap, loops to clip biners etc. My ropes are stored seperatley but in fits harness, lanyards and hardware no probs. Really Useful BAG FOR Climbing Gear KIT Rope ETC Ideal 4 Arborist Tree Surgeon | eBay Kind Regards Tony

Tried it SRT yet? Curious... It will be an interesting 2014 when the rope runner is released. Its midline attachable as well...... Regards TK

Apologies if I butting in as your question was to Dave. I have trialed a few cords and still haven't quite dialed the HH in. My view/impression is that BL with the recommended hitch (VT minus the braids) performs the most reliably from the onset and once stretched and broken in continues to be solid. I can't say the same for some of the other cordage I have tied (and hitches). Some whilst breaking don't set reliably, some combinations lock on the line worse than others. The combinations of access line, cordage and hitch including the breaking in of the cord effects behavior and feel considerably. At a guess the BL is supplied because it was as close a compromise one would want to make from reliability to performance and not the other way around. Currently on Factory Tach I'm trialing/breaking in 8mm HRC, this was recommended by a US fella that by his account has his HH virtually self tending at times. I have just start using vortex hot (sexy rope) and the HRC bites harder on the softer 12.7mm, I am looking at trialing 10 mm OP as an alternative. Its a bit of fun finding the "Holy Grail" of combo's. Cheers TK

I'd agree, yet when I built mine I wasn't aware of an archery trigger, the snap was $5 bucks and 10 minutes to file it down, its pretty light making it reasonably smooth. I may replace it with a archery trigger at some stage. The Traxion I got a bargain on. The rope knight compliments the big shot perfectly. Regards TK

Welcome guys. TK

Great thread Old Mill. My impressions were the same as yours. From receiving a self contained box kit through to the workmanship I was happy to depart with the coin. From the vid I assumed the fid was required to 'load' the line all the time, NOT the case. It is easy to thread by hand and I can do it even with gloves on (the screws a lot more difficult though ). It throws or shoots extremely well and flies as near to perfectas you'll get. One feature that is brilliant is the 'Ropeshield'. Whether installing a climbing or tag/rigging line from the ground its always driven me crazy pulling and jamming. SRT through multiple crutches. 3/4" braided or 3 strand The only thing I've added to the kit so for is a short dedicated red handled T-Bar Allen key to 'nip' the screw easily. Just stay out the way if your pulling it out unloaded and without the soft protector (or wear you helmet), I haven't clocked myself but I could see a trip to cas if one did. Summary, for me it makes throwing far lessor of a chore. Cheers. TK Overall 9.5 out of 10 (dad said nothing was ever perfect).....

There good things, and nice work OMT. This is mine, throw by hand when I don't need the max reach but its real handy for the long game. OMT, you'll like the knight just got one, expense little jigger but wouldn't go back. Now I only curse when I miss a shot. Trigger is a filed down QR snap (hair baby). I had to save my money to throw a Traxion self capturing pulley on it. 2:1 is good.