Craobh

Most of my pics are stateside but I'll cut a few here over the next few days and post them......ie head leaners.....back leaners etc with a description of the lay etc then why I cut them the way I did........hopefully I won't get any that chair etc but if you guys really want I'll try and set up a few wrong uns

Would it be of interest to any of you guys if a thread was started on reading the stump? Before you guys start laughin or make sa coments it can be a useful aid to younger guys who are learning. I was always told (and I still do) read the stump after you've falled a tree. Then youshould be able to understand why a tree did what it did ie. if it didn't fall exactly where you aimed it......it chaired......it stump jumped It may be of no interest to folks at all it just a thought Also I don't mean posting monster stumps as they'd be of little use here I'd suspect (and that isn't being patronizing) also it the smaller trees that tend to cause more probs. I in no way mean to circumvent practical training but it might give young guns a small start in understanding the mechanics of falling.

that a fairly old saw.......bro you ain't got a chain brake on it so would be very very careful.....as a footnote (I know zero bout that saw) if it was made for the US market then (some states have changed but not all) then there is no requirement to put a chainbrake on what are considered non pro saws few are made that way now but they are still around

That might be Chinese monkey's lol or of that geo orbit lol

Just take it easy feel the saw don't rush and you'll be fine. I didn't say bout sinking the dawgs lol as thought it might confuse but stubby spot on that is what they are for lol

You can use the dawgs to level the saw and line up cuts but maybe that's just confusing and different cutting style but there ya go

When you say driving thru wood I guessing you mean overcutting??? imo that comes with experience more than anything. Removing the dawgs I've never done that but guess that cause I use em but some of the guys may give you better advice on that than I can

Oh ok lol sorry just seen a few homelites stateside that spec was 40:1 but you know your stuff.....I just work and bust saws lol

Listen to spud He kinda does know his saws

Different schools of thought there.........Me I run 4-5 tanks of gas thru them before I really work em......but with the auto tune I dunno buddy as never had an auto tune. I'd assume your dealer or Husky could advise ya there or the saw guru's on here

My definition may not be the same as the UK one.........We call cord wood timber that has been bucked to 4' and stacked ......a cord is 128 cubic feet (4x4x8 usually) there are variations and other names such a face cord kitchen cord etc. The UK def may be diff tho

few months behind here .....the monkeys still looking for brass welders :lol:

Not good when that happens hope ya recover soon with no lasting damage

Hey I'm a no arb guy bro I'm a tree killer :lol:

I reduced 45' like that..........to 6" above the ground sorry not helpful but I think those trees are the bloody scourge of freaking humanity :lol: I'm no arb guy but anyone wants those s o b's pruned I'll do it :lol:

Like that post :lol:

It's all the scrumpy jack I'd be thinking

lol so ya a slightly smaller version of that austrian dude lol

Jon I know ya love ya 660 buddy but that a 90cc grunter a wee bit heavy I'd think...... you must have arms like that austrian dude if ya do everything with a 660 :lol:

Cool buddy, I get ya now. I guess my idea of pro saws is different. The 550/560 I really don't think of them as quite pro but I guess for some they are. The 441 is a 70cc saw tho and it by all accounts is good but I don't have personal experience with one. It all Husky's we use (predominantly the 372) for bolting firewood I use a 365 (but that me, bigger dia of timber usually, apart from the locust) It handles pretty well and is reliable. It is a 70cc to really the wee bro of the 372 and both will be a tad heavy i'd suspect. I use a 357 (which is ported and is a 3/8th the father in law does my saws) and it flies but it been doctored. The 254 is a legend and a good saw but older so that may not be what ya want. I'd guess that maybe two saws may be a choice use one for falling etc and one for bucking up at home. It just an idea. The 365 will cope with anything I've seen over here (I'm not being patronizing guys but this country don't really have much big timber) and the 254 is a decent saw to brash with and limb with. You can pick up older good saws at cost effective prices. The bigger saws do tend to be heavy on gas and oil (yeah that a no brainer) but it does mount up (especially with the price of gas and oil here) and will eat into ya profit margin. I get what your saying bout the 346 (the guys on here will give you more info on that I never used one as it honestly way to small for what I do even a stock 357 is to if mine wasn't doctored) but I'd be just wary it will do all you want it to. These views are just an old battered faller/loggers opinions no more

It was just a heads up buddy as what ya said lot of fakes out there. All good tho

It should have Bradford PA stamped on the butt if not it not a genuine zippo

Thinking you have the right to do something doesn't mean you can .....it is no defense in law to claim that you thought you could do it The law all over is weird and it is open to interpretation if ya put 100 lawyers in a room you'll get may be 101 different opinions Why don't ya go see a legal eagle as well they are supposed to know the law and will be able to advise on if it criminal or civil and what the procedure is and how to go about it. It may also cover your ass in the long run Just my thoughts

I'm not being rude buddy but ya seem to be jumping around between 50cc saws 60cc saws and 70cc saws. From pro saws to semi pro. I guess what I can't figure is what do ya want the saw to cope with? I maybe missed that somewhere. What kinda timber you in? are you falling it,bucking it etc or what? Are you standing in a wood yard bolting timber or cutting for ties etc Sorry if I seem blunt but I'm confused as to what ya want a saw for I know it a ground saw but there a whole shed load of scope there Are ya wanting new etc with bells and whistles weight power and torq all come into the mix but it really depends what ya want it to do???

If ya use top grade 2T then maybe 50:1 if not then I'd go 40:1 however if you got make model etc then you should be able to get a manual somewhere I'd think