Craobh

uisge-beatha is what Whisky is lol Ya wanna try Poitín lol that'll put hairs on ya chest lol or good blue ridge shine lol

I know a guy that got a 254 that rebuilt, maybe not what ya want but it a decent saw and not a lot of money

Has any one seen the TV news bout the Wildfire in CA???

This is an extremely interesting thread and you guys really know your stuff. I'm not an arb guy but it is a very important thing to look for decay and to "sound a tree" I guess I might do the sounding etc for different reasons but none the less it is an important thing for me to do from a safety angle. This kind of thread although technical in it's content should be brought to the attention of all folks that are going to work with trees in what ever capacity. I have seen and been on the end of trees that looked sound etc then when (ok in my case it is falling them or climbing them to top out for lift lines) the cuts go in things don't go according to plan or when climbing the tree moves or tips (I've made light of saying oh ya become a real believer or I become a tree hugger real quick when this happens but none the less it a very unpleasant experience. I know that pro guys are trained over here (stateside to) timber fallers usually get the full instruction in 5 mins and it involves don't cut your flip line and try not to fall and Do not break the saw, you'll learn when to run. However all that said I do feel that for some folks that will read and dip into this forum that aren't pro's and don't want to or can't for what ever reason do any of the courses but still want to cut wood etc (may be for firewood) (there are I'm sure folks in this country that do do things themselves) attention may be should be drawn to this thread or another simplified version to make them aware that it is very good practice and conducive to their own well being that they do check for soundness before doing anything. As has been pointed out in a very good and professional way in this thread that just because a tree looks well it may not be Sorry if I haven't put across well what I mean but what you raise here is important in fact very important Thanks for a very good thread

Thats prob a fair point I've just laid my hands on a jred 630 for firewood seems to have the guts etc but time will tell I think it from the same family as the husky 61/266 family but I maybe wrong there

For what it worth I use husky or stihl oil as far as chain oil I don't like the bio stuff just found I went thru more of it.........but I'm an old fart lol guess I should think bout it more

Ms 260 pro??? or a husky 353 or a 357

I'm no arb guy but I would totally agree with the above quote. I falled a big ash (bout 60" on the butt) That was right next to a bridge and before I did it an engineer was consulted and the result was after I'd falled the engineers took over removed the stump etc then they underpinned the part of the bridge I have no clue as to tech terms but I do remember them saying that if it had been just falled that there would have been a real risk of movement. This maybe not helpful but it really worth covering all bases at least then there no come back on you

The tips you been given are spot on especially the bits about being warm when you get there. That is an old old trick lol also what Stubby said bout getting it hot is a very valid point as quite a few saws will start and run but when they get hot ya stop them then they not wanna start again. The guys said bout bar wear etc I'd add whip the chain of and check the sprocket for wear if it a newish one then if it badly worn then it might have been caned a bit or abused. All sprockets wear but I think it worth a look. As is the chain tensioner make sure it works and not been doctored just for your eyes coming to see it. Ask the seller what it been used for and if possible what type of wood it's cut ie. saws that have been used for only hardwood won't show the same signs of external wear as one used for predominantly softwood. I mean softwood has that sap crap and it highly abrasive at least that my experience any how and I cut a fair amount of that lol. Sit down and think what you want the saw for. Think what size of saw you want (not just cc but hp and torq as well). What length of bar you want it to pull. Do you want a .325, 3/8th or .404? Also I'd think if you see a saw fairly cheap be aware that there alot of fakes out there (more pertains to new saws) just because it is the right color don't mean it is the real deal. The real ones will have a small plate on them that if you get the number one of the guys on here will tell ya what the numbers mean ie date of manufacture etc. I'm not trying to call into question your abilities or the like but please be aware that not all of the saws you'll come across are or were made for the pro user. Even Husqvarna and Stihl made higher cc saws but they were for the semi pro, home user or farm market (I won't include Jonsered as they are in essence Husqvarna and you ain't likely to come across a pre elux one). The older saws (well some) will have the mechanical chain brake on them (metal) and not the inertia one. They need setting for them to work properly but are perfectly safe etc and you can swap them for the inertia (there are comps that will make up one for you). Don't be put of by them. There are trade offs that ya gotta make when not buying new and ya won't (unless your lucky and I hope ya are) get an all singing all dancing bells and whistles job if ya are offered one ask yourself why they selling it then ask them lol. The arb guys on here will and I'm sure they will advise you on a good saw for the work your gonna undertake ie bar size weight to power ratio etc. If your gonna climb with it etc then they are the ones with the knowledge etc. If your looking at a pure felling saw (I'm working on the language thing guys lmao) then I and other cutters can try to advise you there. Come back when you've got a few saw in mind and the pros and cons can be aired. You may see a bun fight between us over Husqvarna versus Stihl etc but ignore that lol that just ........well older hacks arguing lmao but the advise will be sound Best of luck I wish you well. Stay safe and keep cutting once ya get the saw chips in your blood you'll never wanna do anything else.

i am sorry it not the saw I thought a zip saw tag means something different to me. I did look at the link and well it looks like the saws that are sold at the DIY stores stateside and really unless your desperate to fix it then I'd say it will cost you more than it worth and the saws I know well the only way to get spare parts is from other saws that ain't working as the spares for them are like hens teeth

Apart from me being wrong bout elm here I did kinda suggest milling right at the start as elm has nice grain ,least the elm I know It maybe worth posting pics. I so agree that if the wood full of nails etc then well the air will be blue lol I take it they are standing.......If they dead then snags are a p i a .....also if the space is tight then that'll add to it If I was closer and there was the space I'd put the s o b's on the floor for ya

It should .......the 61 is the same family as the 266 etc and the jonyred 630 I think but I'm no saw guru in any way

The old school saws are good bro that I will 100% stand by ya on. My buddy does have 281 parts if your interested

Get someone here to buy it then send it to ya but that may not be cheaper nor good if things go pear shaped with the saw

I'll give ya a laff .......my wife when she first came over here (we been hitched for 30 years) the first time she went into a petrol station and asked for gas. she couldn't understand why the attendant said it was kept out back in a wire cage ......I couldn't stop laughing as she meant petrol they thought she was looking for butane lol. There are others to if you ask in the states for fags (cigs) they will either call the cops or tell ya they all downtown in the bars lol

There a way round your problem but it might not be cheaper just an idea I use it from time to time but that if I'm shipping from US (hope no jobsworths reading this lol)

I really do apologize for the words I use but some if not most of the time I don't know what they called over here lol .............

No it the guy that estimates the value of standing timber .......what your talking bout stubby is a gypo or tramp logger .......ie.........ME lmao

It's not a 50 the starter casing not the same and the wrong color (well at least not the 50 I know anyhow) If it not a 61 or 281 It could be a 266 lol but I'd really go for the 61 or 281

The 61 had the mech brake to It could be tho but I'd bank more on a 61 Is the plate still on it??? that'll tell you can't remember where it on a 61 but on the 281 it should be just below the oil cap

I'll google words before I use em lol

LOL a cruiser hmmmm they not the most popular folks, For the most part Foresters do that job now and they butt heads with loggers regularly and I mean REGULARLY lmao

I haven't but I think he comes from LA I'll look up a review tho

Oh I can stand up for myself trust me in that ......I'm not saying that if it don't grow in the lower 48 it not worth it lol I gave my opinion lol .......oh and btw I'm not a Colonial lol I'm the same as you .....well actually no.....I'm a Highlander hence the name ...... but all good I get the elm here is ok just didn't like the way things were put so I jacked back

If ya really want hard heads etc then if ya can't get em elsewhere I'll get them shipped via my FIL lol